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My second catamaran  Bottom

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  • https://www.sportsmobilef…ms1165-picture37144.html


    It ends up like this.



    Edited by gahamby on Jun 13, 2021 - 03:18 PM.

    --
    '82 Super Cat 15
    Hull #315
    Virginia
    Previously owned: '70 H14, '79 H16, '68 Sailmaster 26, '85 H14T
    --
  • Thanks gahamby, looks good.

    I've sewn on one hiking strap. About to do the other.
    https://www.thebeachcats.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=134885&g2_serialNumber=3

    The original hiking straps were rotten. The tramp is not great, it is pretty stiff. I'll make a new one another time.

    --
    Bryan in Poplar Grove, IL
    Supercat 17, unknown year
    Hobie 16, 1977
    --
  • I had to do the same with the tramp on my H14T. That tramp was stiff but held up well.

    --
    '82 Super Cat 15
    Hull #315
    Virginia
    Previously owned: '70 H14, '79 H16, '68 Sailmaster 26, '85 H14T
    --
  • Thanks gahamby, good to know.

    Here are my new hiking straps. I'm lacing on the tramp. My first time doing this.
    https://www.thebeachcats.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=134889&g2_serialNumber=3

    --
    Bryan in Poplar Grove, IL
    Supercat 17, unknown year
    Hobie 16, 1977
    --
  • I like the hitch receiver trick for the after mast support.

    --
    '82 Super Cat 15
    Hull #315
    Virginia
    Previously owned: '70 H14, '79 H16, '68 Sailmaster 26, '85 H14T
    --
  • gahambyI like the hitch receiver trick for the after mast support.

    Thanks! That idea made for less fabrication.

    We drilled off the old cheek block and riveted the new one on last night.
    https://www.thebeachcats.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=134894&g2_serialNumber=3

    I've also got the tramp all laced on and have stuck my feet through the hiking straps for the first time. They seem good.

    We had lost one of the gudgeon screws and I didn't have a replacement in my collection. We drove over to the EAA hangar to check the hardware stock there, and discovered they are 12-24 threads. I never heard of that before. Ordered a 10 pack on Amazon, drove back to our hangar, and found the screw.

    This old cat has aluminum rudder pivots and steel gudgeons. I ordered up a 12 pack of aluminum rod, 12" long. Last night we also cut down a couple to 8" and drilled holes in the end for cotter pins.

    I bought a new Seasense rope cutter from Amazon for about $30. It works well though I stripped out one of the element holding screws and had to fix it. We cut our ratchet straps to length and trimmed the tramp laces with it.

    --
    Bryan in Poplar Grove, IL
    Supercat 17, unknown year
    Hobie 16, 1977
    --
  • QuoteOrdered a 10 pack on Amazon, drove back to our hangar, and found the screw.

    icon_rolleyes

    : )



    Edited by MN3 on Jun 17, 2021 - 11:18 AM.
  • I'm working on getting the rigging set up again. We had used some Home Depot rope temporarily to pull the halyards down and I removed that crap put the new Cajun lines on. Also putting the stays back on. Question, my mast tang only has one hole. The owner's manual is newer than my boat and shows a larger tang with two holes. Is it ok to just use the one hole for stays and trap wires?
    https://www.thebeachcats.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=134925&g2_serialNumber=3

    Should I/can I upgrade the mast tang to the newer one? I think my mast is a little dented underneath the mast tang.

    Also the recommended halyard rope lengths have a lot of line that goes well beyond the bottom of the mast. Is there a reason for this? It seems the longer the line the more you have to stow somehow when sailing. But, too short and it's probably hard to get a hold of when the mast is stepped. Any wisdom that somebody can impart regarding line length?



    Edited by waiex191 on Jun 17, 2021 - 02:30 PM.

    --
    Bryan in Poplar Grove, IL
    Supercat 17, unknown year
    Hobie 16, 1977
    --
  • https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kTGqkMI6CF6rJMBAM80CcK4LfR1rUZm7/view?usp=sharing
    These are the tools i made for tighte4ning the tramp. 3/16" stainless steel rod with a hand-sized bend on one ens and a hook for the lacing on the other. 3 diff lengths so you can switch to shorter hooks as you work from front to back.
  • raisehullhttps://drive.google.com/file/d/1kTGqkMI6CF6rJMBAM80CcK4LfR1rUZm7/view?usp=sharing
    These are the tools i made for tighte4ning the tramp. 3/16" stainless steel rod with a hand-sized bend on one ens and a hook for the lacing on the other. 3 diff lengths so you can switch to shorter hooks as you work from front to back.

    Looks like that link isn't shared - I can't open it.

    --
    Bryan in Poplar Grove, IL
    Supercat 17, unknown year
    Hobie 16, 1977
    --
  • Hey, measure the width of the mast, Bryan. I have an extra Hobie hound that looks pretty new, I think. Just need some dimensions. Make absolutely certain you use at least sealed stainless rivets, if not monel rivets. But, to be honest I've never found a primary source for monel rivets... Let me know.

    --
    Chuck C.
    H21SE 408
    --
  • Don't bother changing the mast hound (tang) for the sole reason of getting one with two holes. Two holes are so you can have your trapeze wires on a separate shackle above the shrouds. If you feel the original is strong enough you can still make it work, just put the trap wires on last, if the eyes are too small, get two small shackles to go on each side of the big one. The main thing is to keep the wires from wearing each other when you are trapezing. Remember the mast will be rotated when you are sailing and that helps keep everything up there that's loaded apart. The halyard length should not be any longer than what you absolutely need regardless of what the manual says. If having all that extra line when the sails are up bothers you cut them in half, connect them with sister clips and after you hoist your sails remove them.

    --
    Bill Townsend
    G-Cat 5.7
    Sarasota
    --
  • Thanks for the replies, guys. Chuck I'll measure my width but probably will not rush to change out the hound.

    We got a lot done tonight. We figured out and installed the outhaul, downhaul, main sheet, and traveler. The gooseneck was all screwed up. See picture. I looked at the manual and figured out that the part that was pinned to the gooseneck swivel should actually go to the tack.
    https://www.thebeachcats.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=134930&g2_serialNumber=3

    The way the gooseneck was put together, all the downhaul forces would go through a cotter pin. That seemed sketchy to me - what is the normal setup? I ended up using an AN4 bolt and an all-metal lock nut. I have lots of airplane hardware.

    I have to figure out what length I need my main sheet. I have a 5:1 with the two pulleys on the boom. I'm intending to use the end of the main sheet for the traveler.

    We also got our rudders and tiller on. When we got the boat the left and right tillers were swapped. We put new rudder cams on but keep getting the starboard side stuck in the locked position. We could use some advice on what we are doing wrong.

    --
    Bryan in Poplar Grove, IL
    Supercat 17, unknown year
    Hobie 16, 1977
    --
  • Grease - need to grease the cams. I don't know if the 16's have the same screw to tighten the spring loaded ball, but if it's jammed too tight that may affect it, though not as much as the part in the tiller that grabs the cam (forget what it's called), but it's adjustable and could be too far forward...if it's close to the same as other Hobies.

    --
    Chuck C.
    H21SE 408
    --
  • charlescarlisGrease - need to grease the cams. I don't know if the 16's have the same screw to tighten the spring loaded ball, but if it's jammed too tight that may affect it, though not as much as the part in the tiller that grabs the cam (forget what it's called), but it's adjustable and could be too far forward...if it's close to the same as other Hobies.

    Thanks - we will grease them. I assume a plastic safe silicon type grease is good, like used on brake systems. Or is something else preferred?
    My only adjustment is the preload on the spring loaded ball.

    --
    Bryan in Poplar Grove, IL
    Supercat 17, unknown year
    Hobie 16, 1977
    --
  • Yeah I use Superlube, but only because I've got it but actually with Delrin (I think it is), I think you're good with most anything you stick your hands on. I thought marine grease was recommended by Hobie, so i wouldn't stress. Think you'll kill the cams before they dissolve.

    --
    Chuck C.
    H21SE 408
    --
  • Jib halyard cheek block: Usually folks just bust off the damaged sheave (so it doesn't chew up line) and use as is with a little more friction. Uncommon to find a older used mast with any sheave at all!

    I always figured the #12 gudgeon screw thing was to boost part sales! Good news is that, if you strip the hole, it's easily tapped to 1/4 " and those screws are readily available.

    I also make my own aluminum rudder pins from hardware store stock.

    As long as the hole isn't worn excessively, the one hole mast tang will work fine. Most common issue is that the thimbles for the trap wires can get bound up pointing skyward (which can happen with the three hole tang as well). If you make sure they are pointing the right direction just before raising the mast you'll be good.

    For storage, it's common to run the free ends of the halyard lines down around the horn cleat, up through the halyard shackle, then back down to the horn cleat with a few wraps and hitches. That might account for the extra lengths.

    Interesting gooseneck! Do you have the vertex (Hobie Part No. 50772031:https://westcoastsailing.…-gooseneck-hinge-vertex/) to which the boom pin attaches? If not, let me know....I may have a spare I can send you. The cotter pin holding the downhaul ring is huge....never seen one fail. A Trentec gooseneck bearing is well worth the $10: https://westcoastsailing.…entec-gooseneck-bearing/

    Recommended mainsheet length for 6:1 is 44', and that's actually a few feet too long. For 5:1 I think they called for something closer to 40'. (Maybe add a little for when you get sick of those Seaways and upgrade to the Harken triple blocks? icon_smile )

    Rudder kick up/lock down stuff: There's a really good FAQ on hobiecat.com regarding maintenance and adjustment. Excessive wear/slop in castings, gudgeons, etc. on older boats adds to kick up issues, but just a good cleaning may help. If (big IF) you can get that big delrin screw out of the lower casting, maybe take it all apart, clean, and reassemble (put some anti-seize compound on the delrin screw threads). Make sure the plunger has a smooth dome shape on top....a flat spot will cause issues. White lithium (marine) grease is commonly used on the cams and plungers. You need just enough tension that the rudder will stay locked down on a screaming reach. Lastly, for whatever reasons, the whole assembly will often act completely different while wet and under sailing loads as opposed to dry sitting on the trailer.

    Did you find the battens you need? I may have some old rough ones I can send, but they probably aren't even worth the the (oversized) shipping cost. On a $400 boat, I'd be tempted just to stick some plastic screen molding or such in there and snug it up just enough to keep the leech from flapping.



    Edited by rattlenhum on Jun 19, 2021 - 08:27 AM.

    --
    Jerome Vaughan
    Hobie 16
    Clinton, Mississippi
    --
  • rattlenhum
    Interesting gooseneck! Do you have the vertex (Hobie Part No. 50772031:https://westcoastsailing.…-gooseneck-hinge-vertex/) to which the boom pin attaches? If not, let me know....I may have a spare I can send you. The cotter pin holding the downhaul ring is huge....never seen one fail. A Trentec gooseneck bearing is well worth the $10: https://westcoastsailing.…entec-gooseneck-bearing/

    Did you find the battens you need? I may have some old rough ones I can send, but they probably aren't even worth the the (oversized) shipping cost. On a $400 boat, I'd be tempted just to stick some plastic screen molding or such in there and snug it up just enough to keep the leech from flapping.Edited by rattlenhum on Jun 19, 2021 - 08:27 AM.

    Jerome,
    I don't have the vertex. I didn't know I was missing it until I saw your post. I'd take you up on your offer. I'll shoot you a PM.

    I did get a full set of battens. My mains came yesterday, and my two missing jib battens should arrive tomorrow.

    Many thanks for a helpful post.

    --
    Bryan in Poplar Grove, IL
    Supercat 17, unknown year
    Hobie 16, 1977
    --
  • We found a batten tensioner solid model on thingiverse and printed out enough for the battens that didn't have one. Here they are gluing on.
    https://www.thebeachcats.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=134956&g2_serialNumber=3

    We designed a pocket end for the other side. Same thing, these are gluing on with epoxy.
    https://www.thebeachcats.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=134957&g2_serialNumber=3

    Is this a legitimate hiking stick for the helm or is this somebody's hombrew thing? It seems to be steel.
    https://www.thebeachcats.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=134958&g2_serialNumber=3

    Tonight we are going to install the battens and step the mast another time. I want to make sure we have the jib rigging set up.

    --
    Bryan in Poplar Grove, IL
    Supercat 17, unknown year
    Hobie 16, 1977
    --
  • My kid edited some rigging video and posted it. No sailing, just setting up.
    https://youtu.be/yxnXHrzOkf0

    I didn't get the battens in, except for the #1 and #2 jib ones. The rest go in today. I think we are down to that, plus:
    1) Sealing the mast at the top
    2) greasing the rudder cams
    3) installing bungees for the trap lines

    Then waiting for the first good day. I think it will be on the weekend and no more than 10kts for our first trip.

    --
    Bryan in Poplar Grove, IL
    Supercat 17, unknown year
    Hobie 16, 1977
    --

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