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[quote=rattlenhum]Jib halyard cheek block:  Usually folks just bust off the damaged sheave (so it doesn't chew up line) and use as is with a little more friction.  Uncommon to find a older used mast with any sheave at all!

I always figured the #12 gudgeon screw thing was to boost part sales!  Good news is that, if you strip the hole, it's easily tapped to 1/4 " and those screws are readily available.

I also make my own aluminum rudder pins from hardware store stock.

As long as the hole isn't worn excessively, the one hole mast tang will work fine.  Most common issue is that the thimbles for the trap wires can get bound up pointing skyward (which can happen with the three hole tang as well).  If you make sure they are pointing the right direction just before raising the mast you'll be good.

For storage, it's common to run the free ends of the halyard lines down around the horn cleat, up through the halyard shackle, then back down to the horn cleat with a few wraps and hitches.  That might account for the extra lengths.

Interesting gooseneck!  Do you have the vertex (Hobie Part No. 50772031:[url]https://westcoastsailing.net/hobie-gooseneck-hinge-vertex/[/url]) to which the boom pin attaches?  If not, let me know....I may have a spare I can send you.  The cotter pin holding the downhaul ring is huge....never seen one fail.  A Trentec gooseneck bearing is well worth the $10: [url]https://westcoastsailing.net/trentec-gooseneck-bearing/[/url]

Recommended mainsheet length for 6:1 is 44', and that's actually a few feet too long.  For 5:1 I think they called for something closer to 40'.  (Maybe add a little for when you get sick of those Seaways and upgrade to the Harken triple blocks? :-) )

Rudder kick up/lock down stuff:  There's a really good FAQ on hobiecat.com regarding maintenance and adjustment.  Excessive wear/slop in castings, gudgeons, etc. on older boats adds to kick up issues, but just a good cleaning may help.  If (big IF) you can get that big delrin screw out of the lower casting, maybe take it all apart, clean, and reassemble (put some anti-seize compound on the delrin screw threads). Make sure the plunger has a smooth dome shape on top....a flat spot will cause issues.  White lithium (marine) grease is commonly used on the cams and plungers.  You need just enough tension that the rudder will stay locked down on a screaming reach.  Lastly, for whatever reasons, the whole assembly will often act completely different while wet and under sailing loads as opposed to dry sitting on the trailer.

Did you find the battens you need?  I may have some old rough ones I can send, but they probably aren't even worth the the (oversized) shipping cost.  On a $400 boat, I'd be tempted just to stick some plastic screen molding or such in there and snug it up just enough to keep the leech from flapping.<em>Edited by rattlenhum on Jun 19, 2021 - 08:27 AM.</em> [/quote]

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