My pumps for epoxy broke so I was forced to make another type of percentage mixing process. Take waxed paper cups, push, push pin trough cup for 1 part hardner. Now with cup, use water to make up your percentage in another cup. Dry cups, and push pin in to make up your non-hardner. Take sharpie and dot the raised surface of paper of holes made by puch pin on inside of the cups, so that you can see how high to pour liquids, hardner first, then resin. You should now have 2 colored dots. Try to keep them lined up. Place tape over holes and cut down cups to size, if you're using large cups. Take strip of paper and used this to make a guide from top to bottom where holes in cups should go. Use this guide to mark other cups. Now, you can pour hardner in several cups, based upon what you'll need, and as you spread resin, you'll only have to add resin to cups that already have hardner. Make sure you mix good for about a minute bringing plastic knife from bottom to top. Plastic knives are good as you can spatula all the goo out of cups. I use plastic from all types of plactic bottles for spreading resin. Just cut them up and round corners before starting. When you are done, throw everything in the trash including cups, knives, squeege, and plastic gloves. Easy. Oh, use dry cheap Home Depot 2-3" paint brush to spread cloth. U can also use brush to push resin into corners, using a dab method.
I'll never buy pumps again as you are confined to the percentages of pumps. Cups can to done for any volume you need with method above.
Edited by goodsailing on Mar 13, 2015 - 12:43 PM.
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Goodsailing
Laser-Standard Rig (Sold 6/15)
H18 (Sold 7/15)
Building 19' Tacking Outrigger
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Referbing Hobie 18 Thread
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Posted: Mar 13, 2015 - 12:40 PM
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Posted: Mar 13, 2015 - 02:17 PM
Graduated plastic or paper mixing cups work best in my experience. They have the most versatility and you're not at the mercy of the hand pump dispenser volumes. Plastic cups can be reused several times if you clean them out when the epoxy is wet. A few bucks will get you a sleeve of cups. I would not recommend using waxed paper cups. The wax will inevitably be scraped off into the epoxy as you mix.
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Posted: Mar 13, 2015 - 04:37 PM
The cups I get hardly have any wax. I've actually put saw dust in epoxy, lots of saw dust, from sander and micro balloons when filling gaps so any microscopic wax if any will hardly be noticed using straight resin. And those graduated cups... at nearly a buck a piece, that you can clean if you want. No thanks. Besides, paper cups are renewable resources, plastic cups are not.
http://www.resinobsession…-Cups---Quantity-10.html
I used 8 paper cups today purchased at grocery store by the 40 pack, 2 plastic knives, one sqeegie cut from detergent bottle and one pair of plastic gloves bought at beauty store for $9 per hundred and spread approximately 18 sq ft over 4oz FB cloth for a particular project and everything went into the trash when finished. No solvents, no rags, no smell no clean up.
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Goodsailing
Laser-Standard Rig (Sold 6/15)
H18 (Sold 7/15)
Building 19' Tacking Outrigger
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Posted: Mar 13, 2015 - 06:38 PM
To each his own. I prefer not to risk contaminating a batch of epoxy with wax or screwing up the mix ratio, both of which can be avoided by using a $0.25 graduated plastic mixing cup.
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Posted: Mar 15, 2015 - 05:45 PM
OK, I'm about to raise the mast on this boat to finish rigging starting with the trap wires. I have bungie. Where do I attach the bungie. Are there two section? The bungie I took off had two sections. The static line coming from the trapeze wire was tied to the bungie. So it appeared an inverted v shape would have been formed hanging from it? It seems best to tie the static to the back of the boat up to first hole, then up to static line for aft trapeze. The opposite for the front trapzee. But I'm not sure the elasticity will extend from all the way back to where it's tied of as the center hole will restrict movement? Anyone know how to tie these? Thanks.
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Goodsailing
Laser-Standard Rig (Sold 6/15)
H18 (Sold 7/15)
Building 19' Tacking Outrigger
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Posted: Mar 15, 2015 - 06:11 PM
I'm not clear what you are calling the two sections or what you mean by "inverted v".
But the standard bungee setup on the H18 is very simple. Look under the deck lip near the bow and stern about 7 feet forward and back from the two holes on each side of the shroud. you will find a small stainless eyestrap rivited to the deck lip.
You tie the trap bungee to the eye strap, then route it to the closest "deck hole", up through the hole and tie it to the adjustment line on the trap wire.
Have you got the assembly manual? There isn't much detail about the trapeze rigging but there is a good picture on page 11 (figure 23) of the bungee to trap connection.
Download the manual here.
http://static.hobiecat.co…sets/H18%26SX_Manual.pdf
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Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
Memphis, TN
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Posted: Mar 16, 2015 - 01:53 PM
Thanks. The way the previous owner had it rigged had me wonder about proper rigging.
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Posted: Mar 16, 2015 - 02:09 PM
I'm preparing to fix the aft port deck and since I've had problems in the past with epoxy setting up too quick in a horse syringe I was wondering if simply pouring epoxy over the holes and using a squeege to squish the epoxy into the holes would work. I'd use a thin welding rod bent at tip to finesse the foam/ epoxy to remove air via the holes. Also, gravity will help the process as well. This is my back up method but since I'm out of syringes thought I posed the question before going over to Southern States to get the needles.
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Goodsailing
Laser-Standard Rig (Sold 6/15)
H18 (Sold 7/15)
Building 19' Tacking Outrigger
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Posted: Mar 16, 2015 - 06:28 PM
I have tried attempting to "push" the epoxy into the holes with squeegee, and it is not as foolproof as using the syringes. The syringe really gets the liquid into the sandwich, whereas the squeegee method is hit or miss
I would use the syringe if at all possible
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Posted: Mar 17, 2015 - 03:47 AM
Pouring the epoxy into the holes is not going to work at all - it's going to create a huge mess. The epoxy needs to be forced between the layers of the deck, gravity is not going to me sufficient. Use a quality epoxy in conjunction with a the proper hardener for the temperature and working time you need and you shouldn't have any problems. But, if you're still concerned about exotherm (cooking off the epoxy), then you can mix the epoxy in a large container and only pull a small amount into the syringe at a time.
The other important thing is to mask off the entire area you're working on. Cover the whole area with masking tape first and then drill your holes (thru the masking tape). Epoxy is inevitably going to ooze out of the holes and if it gets into the non-skid, it will create a mess. Do all your injecting and when the epoxy goes green (semi-cured), peel off the masking tape. Have some paper towels and acetone ready just in case the epoxy does get on the hull you want to wipe it off immediately.
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Posted: Mar 17, 2015 - 09:27 AM
I got the syringes this morning 90mm horse tubes. Good idea on taping. (If you roughed up the deck first wouldn't the epoxy adhear to the deck. Then you throw in a little sand to make it really non skid.?
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Goodsailing
Laser-Standard Rig (Sold 6/15)
H18 (Sold 7/15)
Building 19' Tacking Outrigger
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Posted: Mar 17, 2015 - 09:32 AM
not sure where you are repairing but that sounds painful (and bloody) if its in an area you may slide around on your boat -
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Posted: Mar 17, 2015 - 09:41 AM
Rear deck behind the aft xbar. I did this to a stand up paddle board I made and rowed a considerable distance in bare feet with no problems instead of buying that sand paper material made especially for this purpose.. Not sure how that would turn out on this section. Probably better to just do what's recommend. You can always cover the repair with that spungy deck material used on jet skis and sometimes used to cover the whole decks of cat hulls.
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Goodsailing
Laser-Standard Rig (Sold 6/15)
H18 (Sold 7/15)
Building 19' Tacking Outrigger
Balt-Wash Area
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Posted: Mar 17, 2015 - 09:48 AM
Gotcha.
on a SUP, you aren't tacking or gybing (or capsizing) at 20+knots and the effect of some grit on your deck (and skin) may have very different results when inertia is applied,
i personally would purchase that spongy material (and need to for my new cat thats imron paint is pretty darn slippery ) - -
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Posted: Mar 17, 2015 - 01:08 PM
As an avid motorcycle rider too, effect of inertia is duly noted. Spongy soft material might work better indeed.
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Goodsailing
Laser-Standard Rig (Sold 6/15)
H18 (Sold 7/15)
Building 19' Tacking Outrigger
Balt-Wash Area
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Posted: Mar 17, 2015 - 01:21 PM
Looks like the bracket with the deadeye that holds the main sheet is about to pop rivets. How much stress is on this that I might drill out and re-rivet. I suspect that even if it did pop out you would still have a main sheet that you could back back to shore.
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Goodsailing
Laser-Standard Rig (Sold 6/15)
H18 (Sold 7/15)
Building 19' Tacking Outrigger
Balt-Wash Area
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Posted: Mar 17, 2015 - 01:55 PM
I don't know if that would be a matter of life or death but it could be a PITA
if you capsize all your line could pay out, or you come "off the cleat" while anchored ... your boat could try to sail away, etc
i would definitely fix that before I sailed with gear like that
I failed to change a "little thing" last weekend, and i almost went swimming because of it -
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Posted: Mar 17, 2015 - 03:42 PM
I don't know if anyone has actually had one of those rip loose, but there can be a LOT of force on it. There is forward force from working the traveler, and then sometimes large sideways force during a jibe when the sail slams over to the new side.
If it did break off, all the force would be transferred to the traveler which would probably immediately fail and now you've got five pounds of metal flinging around trying to take your teeth out. Of course this would happen during a sudden storm or when you are in the path of a ship.
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Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
Memphis, TN
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Posted: Mar 17, 2015 - 06:35 PM
Most likely it is not just that the rivets have worked loose, but that the aluminum crossbar material has corroded away due to galvanic reaction with the stainless rivets and mainsheet bracket. Simply replacing the rivets will not solve the problem if the holes in the crossbar have eroded to the point that the rivets won't grab.
I had this issue on my 1985 H18. The aft rivets for the bracket had pulled out and would not grab the crossbar. My solution was to drill through to the top of the crossbar and then thru bolt the bracket at the effected holes using #10 machine screws and nuts. I also bedded the bracket in epoxy where it contacts the crossbar to act as a galvanic barrier and help prevent further corrosion.
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Posted: Mar 17, 2015 - 08:11 PM
It's not that bad. There's only a 1/64 gap showing on the rivets. It's stable, not loose to the touch. I'll might try drilling out. If riveting does not secure it, then the through bolt idea might work. Does it matter if it is dead center? What if I moved the bracket over an inch into fresh metal.
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Goodsailing
Laser-Standard Rig (Sold 6/15)
H18 (Sold 7/15)
Building 19' Tacking Outrigger
Balt-Wash Area
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