Righting Question
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- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Aug 18, 2003
- Last visit: Dec 13, 2023
- Posts: 880
Boat is a N5.5, no drag from water hitting the pole, I doubt it is significant at all. -
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Aug 18, 2003
- Last visit: Dec 13, 2023
- Posts: 880
[quote=CatFan57]
Here is a drawing of the storage of the system under the tramp. Start from the upper left (starboard, stern (we are looking from below). The blue line is attached to that corner of the tramp, then goes to the pole carabiner which is hooked to a fixed loop knot on the line. Then back up to the upper right, goes through the ring on that corner of the tramp. From there the line goes to the other ring (lower right) and then to the lower left corner to end up attached there. All the excess of line is rolled around the pole at the rear end and secured with the yellow bungee with a hook.
Edited by Andinista on May 09, 2023 - 03:34 PM. -
- Rank: Mate
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- Last visit: May 10, 2023
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Okay, thanks, I was able to see the video now. And thanks also for the diagram of the line system. That and the video together made it more understandable.
Damn, you got 810 views on the video in just two days. I didn't imagine so many people are reading and interested in an getting an idea for a righting pole and line system.
Obviously the advantage of your system is you have both the pole and line stored under the tramp rather than creating clutter someplace on the top of the boat. It also looks nice to have the lines in place already such that you don't really have to deploy lines when you want to use your righting pole.
I'll give it some more thought and decide which system I like better.
I am leaning towards building the one I linked to though, because I like that you can walk backwards out on the pole and put all your weight on it, while having your hands out to the sides balancing yourself on the lines. I also like that the lines attached to the pole go over the top of the hulls, which I think probably gives the most leverage. I think/hope storing it across the hulls in front of the front crossbeam should be out of the way enough and not cause any problems.
We'll see, but hopefully it will feel good to always be confident of righting without a problem. Thanks again!
Edited by CatFan57 on May 10, 2023 - 04:42 AM.
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1998 P18.2
Sailing out of SHBCC, NJ
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- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Aug 18, 2003
- Last visit: Dec 13, 2023
- Posts: 880
I also walk backwards on the pole, on the video I’m hanging but not on the water. I deploy the righting line too, not totally necessary but more comfortable, probably only because it’s thicker.
About getting more leverage with the lines above the hulls, that’s not true. If the lines are attached below the hulls or further down, yes they are less effective an get more tension to hold your weight, but they hold the same weight on the same position and therefore you produce the same righting moment. The line tension is a force internal to the system ( boat + sailor on the pole). If you were outside the boat, pulling the line from another boat, for instance, then yes you’d have more leverage.
Edited by Andinista on May 10, 2023 - 08:39 AM. -
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Aug 18, 2003
- Last visit: Dec 13, 2023
- Posts: 880
Another option for a skeg boat is to attach the pole to the front beam near the hull on the water, with a soft shackle. The V line would have to be attached to the bow tang. -
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Jul 06, 2009
- Last visit: Sep 13, 2024
- Posts: 392
Great drawing Andinista! All of my poles have been loosely tied to the mast base and had dyneema "shrouds" going to the beam ends. Lacks the leverage, but requires no work after righting. I have a photo album somewhere.
The Hawaiian style has some slick line management though.
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FYC, Nacra 5.2 "Chris's Flyer" & Nacra Playcat & Farrier Tramp
Previously owned: Trac 14, H14, H16, H18, N5.0, G-cat 5.0
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