Hi Everybody,
I know this is an old thread but I am really interested in adding a jib to my Escape. Trouble is, my technical jargon is not up to snuff and I have trouble visualizing Yellowhulls' setup. Any thoughts, photos, or advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
James
2001 Escape Playcat (don't make fun of me!)
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- Rank: Lubber
- Registered: May 25, 2007
- Last visit: Oct 18, 2010
- Posts: 9
Posted: Oct 01, 2010 - 12:20 PM
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- Rank: Mate
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Posted: Oct 01, 2010 - 01:00 PM
NOTICE:
If your cat isn't an "Escape" or a "Play-Cat"... you're taking it all too seriously!
Whoo hoo....
Congrats on your new boat! -
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: May 29, 2010
- Last visit: Apr 28, 2015
- Posts: 454
Posted: Oct 01, 2010 - 02:53 PM
Hey Damon truer word were never spoken. I own a Nacra because of the deal.
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Nacra 5.2
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- Rank: Chief
- Registered: Jun 24, 2009
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Posted: Oct 01, 2010 - 11:19 PM
James,
Congrats you probably have the nicest rotomolded cat ever made!
What is the forestay configuration? Is it the 2 lines that go straight up to the mast hound or 2 bridle wires attached to a single forestay. If it is the latter it's a pretty simple operation, if it is the former (likely) than you will probably need to get new rigging made up.
First call up Nacra and see if they have a conversion kit. This will be the easiest cheapest way to do it.
Otherwise I'm assuming you will need new rigging.
I would start by measuring the distance from the main beam to the forestay hound(tang) on the mast. Next you need to measure the distance between the plates on the hulls and the distance between those connections and the center of the main beam. Lastly you need to measure the length (eye to eye) if your 2 forestays. You can give these measurments ot a rigger like Murray's or Annapolis Performance sailing and they will be able to calculate the length of bridle wires and single foresay you will need. On a fiberglass boat you would be concerned about changing the angle of the force on the hull connections (and need a brilde foil) but I think you should be OK on a rotomolded boat.
Once you have a single forestay rigged you need a jib. An old Hobie 16, Hobie 14 Turbo or Wave jib will likely work or a custom jib can be made. If the jib leech doesn't overlap the main you can use a Hobie 16 type sheeting system. Otherwise look into the Nacra 5.2 type system, plenty of people can describe both. The hobie 16 will require 2 swivel cleats mounted to the front beam a the least for hardware plus various bits and pieces. A nacra 5.2 system will require 2 blocks with attached cleats. These are probably the simplest cheapest systems you can get. The halyard to rail the jib could just be a single block attached at the top of the forestay and tied off to the chainplate at the bottom of the forestay.
That is a really short rundown of what might be involved. It sounds a little overwhelming but it actually shouldn't be too difficult to do. If you luck out with a used sail and parts and wait for the rigging sales in January you can probably get it done for just over $500.
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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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- Rank: Lubber
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Posted: Oct 10, 2010 - 12:00 PM
Wolfman - Thanks so much for the detailed response.
I have a call into Nacra (they are mightily hard to get ahold of and my local dealer hasn't even seen the Playcat) to see if they have a jib kit. First, though, I need to repair the tiller. The issue I have with it is that the tiller bar connects to the risers (forgive me if my terminology is off) via two small rubber "bungies" for the lack of a better description. The old ones rotted and broke and a new pair that I managed to get from Nacra (after many, many phone calls) sheared immediately upon installation (I think their mounting holes were slightly different from the originals and this created torque). I will order two pairs of new ones and try another install (perhaps redrilling holes in the correct place) - should that not work I will take the parts and the remaining new pair to a metal works near her and have them fabricate a small piece of plastic covered aircraft cable with eyes on either end. his should be tougher and still have the flex of the "bungie." The other option is to have the metal works straighten the tiller risers and attach a new (longer, maybe from a Hobie 18) tiller bar using bolts - essentially recreating a Hobie system. The Hobie system is so much more solid than this rubber system which seems ill-conceived (I'd hate to have one of these snap whilst sailing!).
I guess I should start another thread for the tiller issue.
Thanks again for the advice on the jib and I apologise for taking so long to respond!
James -
- Rank: Chief
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Posted: Oct 10, 2010 - 04:33 PM
Yeah, not sure what is going on at Performance Cats recently. Thier web site is pretty screwed up and they have closed some of their production. I just hope they are healthy enough to keep things running in North America.
There are disadvantages to some of the hobie systems but overall they are well thought out and solid, also thier customer service is really good simply because they are so much larger than the other companies. The playcat isn't a very common boat both because it is fairly recent and started out with a small company and was absorbed by performance cat. That being said, everyone customizes thier boat to some degree based on the area they sail and thier own preferences (once you have determined those). We can help you get everything sorted, it can be a bit of a pain but it isn't rocket science. :)
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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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