I am trying to set up a used Mystere 6.0. I am new so I'm not using the spinnaker pole and instead was going to connect the forestay directly to the bridle wires/bridle plate. However, there isn't a stay adjuster so I'm confused on how it all comes together. (This images is the same setup as mine https://static.shoplights…es/003868937/h1802b1.jpg)
1) I don't have the top section of wire above the swivel. Do I need to have this remade?
2) With out a stay adjuster, is it the pulley + jib halyard wire that will adjust the rig tension?
3) Where does everything attach and secure and in what order? My initial thought, from top to bottom, was forestay > furler > bridle plate > bridle wires. But where does the tack of the jib secure? In videos I've seen this is attached to the lowest hole on the stay adjuster.
Shroud Adjuster missing from Forestay?
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Posted: Apr 25, 2022 - 02:28 PM
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Posted: Apr 25, 2022 - 03:06 PM
The pigtail above the swivel should be there because of mast rotation, but maybe they have a way of eliminating it.
That big sail could be a screacher-a 150%+ furling genoa
The H18 furler has holes in it for the jib tack and one for the forestay adjuster plate running thru the center of the furling/bridle plate component. The jib can also be attached to the adjuster plate to change sheeting angle of the jib for example. -
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Posted: Apr 26, 2022 - 11:01 AM
the image shown is correct for a h18 style furler
yes - pigtail is required
the jib halyard is not enough, it will fail
Forestay tension will only be done via these methods:
hobie18 style furler with chainplate (and the need to adjust tension via hanging in a harness on a trap wire and adjusting the side stay plate/or pointing the bows off the wind a bit and sheeting in hard to set the side stay adjuster)
Portuguese turnbuckle method (line between the halyard and furler ring/bridal ring used to secure/adjust tension -m this is the preferred method
your image is correct -
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Posted: Apr 26, 2022 - 12:58 PM
So you would connect the forestay to the furler, the furler to one end of the turnbuckle, and the other end of the turnbuckle to the bridle plate? Am I understanding correctly?
that is what I think the original owner did. I think he omitted the pigtail to account for the longer luff and primarily sailed with a furling gennaker.
JG -
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Posted: Apr 26, 2022 - 03:49 PM
this image is with a standard harken furler
I also have a h18 furler on my 6.0. i added a large shackle to the top of the chain plate slot and still tie off this way. because i can adjust tention this way and not have to mess with the side adjusters -
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Posted: Apr 27, 2022 - 07:28 AM
I have used the Portuguese turnbuckle on every boat I've owned. I bought a new Nacra once and the first thing I did was discard the shroud adjuster and go to this method. It simplifies your set up, especially when you're alone and enables you to get the exact rig tension you want.
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Bill Townsend
G-Cat 5.0
Sarasota
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Posted: Apr 27, 2022 - 10:00 AM
I will buy some string to make this happen. I love an effective, inexpensive solution!
Does anyone have a length measurement for the pigtail at the top? -
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Posted: Apr 27, 2022 - 10:19 AM
3/16ths works best. The length will be determined when you set it up. Give yourself some space between the apex of your bridle and the forestay so there's less friction when you pull it tight. Loop around about three times to give you some purchase and then a couple of more times for peace of mind.
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Bill Townsend
G-Cat 5.0
Sarasota
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Posted: Apr 27, 2022 - 10:30 AM
Sta-Master shroud adjusters are another way to get that done. I have them on all the cats and would have a hard time going any other way at this point. Everything stays connected while you adjust rig tension.
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dk
Blade F-16
Hobie 14
Corsair F-242
Mirage 25 (Sold)
Hobie Tiger (Sold)
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Posted: Apr 27, 2022 - 10:38 AM
Where do you fix the tack of the head sail? With the shroud adjuster, the bottom of the sail is tied or shacked through one of the holes. Would you ty it off to the ring or shackle at the top of the furler?
FYI I have the same furler as the one in the image. -
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Posted: Apr 27, 2022 - 03:18 PM
For anyone that finds this later.
https://media.hobie.com/2010_archive/support/pdfs/WireGuide.pdf
and in case the link breaks:
Hobie 18 w/ swivel - 24 1/2" -
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Posted: Apr 27, 2022 - 03:47 PM
The pigtail length is determined by the luff length of the jib, length of furrler plus shackles etc, and should be made of beefy wire. Figuring it out is a simple math problem.
The tack and the head both need to attached between the 2 swivel points. The tack height plays a part in the sheeting angle, but the angle can also be adjusted by sliding the jib blocks fore and aft on some boats that dont sheet off the main beam. You want the tack as low as possible.
The piece of line to tighten the forestay was stock on the tornado cats back in the 60s, early 70's. use pre-streched. -
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Posted: Apr 27, 2022 - 04:30 PM
Since the area between the swivels should roughly equal the length of the jib luff, wouldn't the pigtail at the top simply be more of a fixed length to arrive at rough total (since with the turnbuckle method mentioned above would be forgiving of slight tolerance differences).
The jib luff and the forestay lower section (pictured) are a known length. But since the length of the pigtail is the only variable component, I'm not sure what the total length should be so I can do that math.
Perhaps a picture of what I have will help. In the image below, the cylinder is the black cylinder at the top. This runs down the left as the forestay and the block on the right contains the jib halyard wire. the pigtail would go above the swivel, right?
Edited by jgregs on Apr 27, 2022 - 05:32 PM. -
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Posted: Apr 27, 2022 - 05:06 PM
I was incorrect when I said a pig tail was required.
I have a long plate on my 5.5 (as the pigtail) and just a big shackle on my 6.0
Edited by MN3 on Apr 27, 2022 - 05:21 PM. -
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Posted: Apr 27, 2022 - 07:07 PM
I this looks similar to my set up.
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