Prindle 18 upgrades
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- Rank: Chief
- Registered: Apr 19, 2011
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Posted: Sep 11, 2013 - 05:13 PM
I share your frustration.
What solved it for me was submersable LED tail and marker lights, soldering all possible connections with a piece of plastic straw on one side so that after it cooled I could slide the straw over the solder and fill it with silicone to keep the water out. I used hose as you did to protect the wires around the wheels and on the tongue connection.
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Sheet In!
Bob
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Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
(Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
Arizona, USA
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Posted: Sep 12, 2013 - 05:57 PM
Well, she is pretty much ready to roll. Waiting for the new old sails to show up (thanks again Pbegle) but the original ones are good enough for a test ride tomorrow or saturday. I cannot believe how much work it has been and I haven't even touched the hulls. I spent a couple hours cleaning the mast with a scotchbrite pad and some marine wax. It was worth the effort. I also "manufactured some curved nylon bushings for my tiller. No more slop in the steering :) I need shorter bolts and some lock nuts though; one more Lowes run. Painting project in the plans for the winter or early spring.
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New Prindle 18-2 Owner
Former Prindle 18 Owner
Multiple Hobie 16s
Boylston Massachusetts
Webster Lake Indian Lake Narragnsett Bay in Rhode Island
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Posted: Sep 14, 2013 - 05:12 PM
Okay, I promise this is the last set of pics, other than maybe a fully rigged shot tomorrow. I worked on making her travel ready. First was a solution for keeping the rudders on. I stole this idea from someone else. Works good. I made some velcro mast/line straps, purchased some small velcro straps so shrouds could be coiled on tramp, and made the mast trailer happy with proper support.
I am open to ideas to make trailering better and easier so let it rip.
Edited by peterk123 on Sep 14, 2013 - 05:16 PM.
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New Prindle 18-2 Owner
Former Prindle 18 Owner
Multiple Hobie 16s
Boylston Massachusetts
Webster Lake Indian Lake Narragnsett Bay in Rhode Island
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- Posts: 441
Posted: Sep 15, 2013 - 08:45 AM
Before you think of painting, do a quick search on Poliglow, a clearcoat finish for gelcoat. Gelcoat is a far harder finish than paint, far more durable and will last for years, Poliglow will renew the gelcoat finish and only has to be re-applied every 2 years. From experience, though, Poliglow does not bring out the high luster shine on white hulls as it does on color, but it still gives the gelcoat that clearcoat protection and ease of cleaning.
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Posted: Sep 15, 2013 - 10:31 AM
I believe that this depends on the paint in question.
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Rob
OKC
Pile of Nacra parts..
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- Rank: Lubber
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Posted: Jan 15, 2014 - 06:15 PM
Soldering is definitely the way to go, but I would suggest cleaning the solder joints with acetone or brake clean to get rid of the flux from soldering the joint. Then use a product called "Liquid Tape" brushing the joint and up the plastic coated wire at least a half inch. I put on two coats, this will keep any salt from getting to your wires. Keep the Liquid Tape lid on snug, but even then after a period of time, you will notice it thickening up. Don't throw it away, add acetone to the container a little at a time, stirring it in, and it will thin back out for use.
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Posted: Jan 16, 2014 - 11:37 AM
I wouldn't travel long distances with the rudders on, your solution looks interesting, but still. In any case, be careful not just on the highway but particularly on small roads and short distances, where you will tend to relax with the tying.. I broke the tiller crossbar like that, I touched some light bushes on one side and it went all the way. I was going very slow and the bushes seemed light enough, but I wasn't thinking about the tiller.. once it moves to the side a little bit, it goes deeper into the bushes very quickly. -
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Posted: Jan 16, 2014 - 12:38 PM
....I agree, remember, with the rudder at right angles, there is now more weight acting on the gudgeons and pin, and with any bump all that force is doubled, even trebled. Even though you have the block inserted to stop the rudder from bouncing, all that force will now be acting on the pins/gudgeons. -
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Posted: Jan 16, 2014 - 03:42 PM
Thread a 4" piece of thick plastic straw over one end before you solder. Use silver solder. Move the straw back over the joint and seal both ends with silicone seal.
Your rudders will get sloppy quickly if you trailer them this way, and it is a lot of work to fix it.
Take your rudders off at the pintles- yes both rudders and the crossbar- fold and store them in your cat box when trailering.
Edited by klozhald on Jan 16, 2014 - 03:45 PM.
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Sheet In!
Bob
_/)_____/)_/)____/)____/)_____/)/)__________/)__
Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
(Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
Arizona, USA
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- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Aug 26, 2013
- Last visit: Apr 13, 2018
- Posts: 151
Posted: Jan 17, 2014 - 06:24 AM
Do you guys have any good ideas to replace pulling a cotter pin everytime?
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New Prindle 18-2 Owner
Former Prindle 18 Owner
Multiple Hobie 16s
Boylston Massachusetts
Webster Lake Indian Lake Narragnsett Bay in Rhode Island
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- Registered: Sep 29, 2012
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- Posts: 441
Posted: Jan 17, 2014 - 12:02 PM
What I do is remove the rudder from the casting, I have teased the knots on the rudder lines loose,where the lines terminate inside the rudder. I remove the pivot pin with an 11mm wrench, loosen the 2 knots on the rudder lines and remove the rudders, insert them into their protective covers and stored in my gear-box for transport, the lines are tied together with a simple slip-knot to secure. When I install the rudder, a simple over-hand knot is used when the rudder lines are re-inserted, they loosen easily when needed, sometimes I have to use pliers to coax them loose. Takes me an extra 5 min to install rudders but saves on wear & tear when trailering. I am a trailer-sailor, nearest lake to me is over 1hr driving.
Edited by the-renovator on Jan 17, 2014 - 12:03 PM.
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