I am looking for a new trailer, or used in very good condition, to replace the Trailex kit unit that I got with my Hobie 18. The trailer is as old as the boat, 1981 or so, and has not had the same level of care and attention from previous owners as the boat received. When I look at what it would take to bring the trailer back into shape, the time and expense make me consider a replacement instead.
Are there good alternatives to the Trailex out there? The current Trailex is both pricey and apparently without some options on my existing unit (such as cradles rather than rollers). I may still have to transfer the sail box (and get a new lid made) since such things appear to be hen's teeth.
I keep the boat in San Diego, so sources in the southwest are preferred if possible.
Thanks!
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Tony H
Hobie 18
Sailing Mission Bay and nearby CA
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Need a new trailer
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Posted: Oct 11, 2021 - 04:00 PM
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Posted: Oct 11, 2021 - 04:29 PM
What's your budget. You can buy a brand new Trailex aluminum catamaran trailer for $1730 including shipping. https://boatdollydirect.c…GLr1UWAOc3caAtnTEALw_wcB Or what I would do is use the SearchTempest search engine and look for a used catamaran or boat trailer in your area.
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Tom
NACRA 5.7 (1984 Sail 181)
Pennsylvania
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Posted: Oct 11, 2021 - 07:03 PM
That model may be too small for a Hobie 18.
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dk
Blade F-16
Hobie 14
Corsair F-242
Mirage 25 (Sold)
Hobie Tiger (Sold)
Hobie Tiger (Sold)
TomCat 6.2 (Sold)
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Posted: Oct 11, 2021 - 08:52 PM
Most of the time it is easier to find a boat on a trailer and either part out the boat or sell it for a couple hundred bucks. Here is one.
https://www.facebook.com/…e-4c7b-bb43-950dadaa81fa
Also check with Pete begle. Here is his ad.
https://losangeles.craigs…ts-sails/7392332368.html
Edited by pknapp66 on Oct 11, 2021 - 09:02 PM.
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Pete Knapp
Schodack landing,NY
Goodall Viper,AHPC Viper,Nacra I20
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Posted: Oct 12, 2021 - 07:54 AM
Aluminum is nice, but what really wears out a trailer is U-bolts, L-brackets, springs and other rusty pieces of hardware. And of course the wheels, tires, hubs and bearings are probably the most important. Bearings don't last long in salt water and when you buy a used trailer, if there's any doubt as when the bearings were last packed, pull over and touch the hub. If it's hot, slow down!
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Bill Townsend
G-Cat 5.0
Sarasota
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Posted: Oct 12, 2021 - 09:19 AM
We rebuilt our trailer for about $200, if I remember correctly. I think it is more time than expense. Is the trailex a rusty steel trailer? Most of that time was wire wheeling off the old rust and painting.
https://www.thebeachcats.…ms/viewtopic/topic/18471
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Bryan in Poplar Grove, IL
Supercat 17, unknown year. Future project
Hobie 16, 1977 - died a spectacular death https://youtu.be/Y7O22bp2MVA
Hobie 16, 1978 - current boat
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Posted: Oct 12, 2021 - 11:37 AM
I think all trailex are alum - prob not a rust issue
they have unique slot designs to add and remove rollers and yokes, etc and are pretty pricey
not easy to modify without welding gear and skills
but light and don't rust (unless you really neglect them) = $$$ -
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Posted: Dec 06, 2021 - 01:20 PM
Did you ever find a trailer? I have a nice one in Central CA, it’s too big for my 16, would be good for an 18/20 -
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Posted: Dec 06, 2021 - 05:20 PM
It may be very difficult to find something. I know of trailers around here (TX), but most of them need attention. I replaced everything under the trailer a couple years ago for a few hundred bucks (new axle, hubs, springs, wheels). I would be hesitant on going with an aluminum frame; it will get beat up and there are too many dissimilar metals to not have it fall apart in a few years.
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Scott
Prindle Fleet 2
TCDYC
Prindle 18-2 Mod "FrankenKitty"
Tornado Classic "Fast Furniture"
Prindle 19 "Mr. Wiggly"
Nacra 5.8 "De ja vu"
Nacra 5.0
Nacra 5.8
Tornadoes (Reg White)
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Posted: Dec 07, 2021 - 01:44 PM
Ditto to Scott - I've got an aluminum trailer; not a Trailex - one that's a full aluminum I-beamed trailer and have been slowly swapping out all the steel and galvanized steel hardware I can because of the dissimilar metal corrosion; use lots and lots of Tuff-gel. Stainless U-bolts are REALLY pricey now but what you need up against aluminum and aren't a perfect match. I re-pack bearings every winter and continually "re-build" during the winter; it's just what you do with saltwater boats and trailers. About to switch the Northern Tool wheels and tires for some proper hot dipped, galvanized rims. The new, painted steel rims have lasted 3 years and now need to go. Mind you, that's having ramped the boat maybe 6 times?
The frame of the aluminum trailer, however still looks 100%. Those having replaced springs - what load rating did you use? I'm tempted to go to no more than 1,000 pounds; light springs.
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Chuck C.
H21SE 408
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Posted: Dec 07, 2021 - 08:52 PM
I went with these 500 lb springs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Z7GX4GO
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Bryan in Poplar Grove, IL
Supercat 17, unknown year. Future project
Hobie 16, 1977 - died a spectacular death https://youtu.be/Y7O22bp2MVA
Hobie 16, 1978 - current boat
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Posted: Dec 08, 2021 - 10:37 AM
So, that's listed as 500# per each (1,000# total)? That helps, cause while your boat is svelte, but my girl is, well - shall we say a little "thicker".
Still, all in, trailer boat, sail box and cargo I'm at 1,000 probably. How is yours handling with those?
I guess the Real question is - what is a good balance point between spring rating and actual load on them for our boats? I really don't have a clue, I just want the boat to ride a little smoother over bumps and will indeed change wheels/tires and go a little lighter on air pressure there to help as well. I think I am due to replace springs though as well.
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Chuck C.
H21SE 408
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Posted: Dec 08, 2021 - 12:37 PM
I believe I went with a 2-leaf spring. I will have to look at my receipt to see the rating they are. I just called up McClain Trailers, told them what the trailer is used for and ... BAM... custom axle, hubs, springs and wheels ready for me to pickup. During the summer, my trailer gets submerged weekly in saltwater.
If you order online, be careful with receiving hardware that will not handle the salt water or beach life.
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Scott
Prindle Fleet 2
TCDYC
Prindle 18-2 Mod "FrankenKitty"
Tornado Classic "Fast Furniture"
Prindle 19 "Mr. Wiggly"
Nacra 5.8 "De ja vu"
Nacra 5.0
Nacra 5.8
Tornadoes (Reg White)
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Posted: Dec 08, 2021 - 01:54 PM
Good
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Bryan in Poplar Grove, IL
Supercat 17, unknown year. Future project
Hobie 16, 1977 - died a spectacular death https://youtu.be/Y7O22bp2MVA
Hobie 16, 1978 - current boat
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Posted: Dec 09, 2021 - 08:30 AM
Hey Scott - what exactly are trailer components designed for saltwater? I've just been buying off-the-shelf stuff, considering it a necessary evil to throw away every 2-3 years. I'd love to be submerging in saltwater once or twice a week - that sounds like a goal, actually,
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Chuck C.
H21SE 408
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Posted: Dec 09, 2021 - 08:55 AM
Chuck C.,
When launching my boat....I only let the water touch my rubber tires and leave the rest of my trailer dry..........
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Bill 404 21SE
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Posted: Dec 09, 2021 - 10:19 AM
Gold doesn't rust. get a gold trailer :)
You can mitigate the rust by filling a small bug spray (pressurized) canister with soapy water and give your trailer a nice rinse immediately after salt water exposure - i know some power boaters that do this -
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Posted: Dec 09, 2021 - 01:47 PM
Try this. http://www.saltawayproducts.com/
It's used heavily by saltwater boaters here in South Florida. Just spray down you're trailer with the mixing gun and your done. -
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Posted: Dec 09, 2021 - 02:12 PM
Good call, i use that on my powerboat boat and trailer
but more so to flush salt out of my water cooled engine
(relatively) expensive stuff, and it doesn't store "mixed" very well - it separates but not a bad idea at all. if you mix just the needed amount each time (500:1 iirc) its a great method.
This requires a water hose and a mixer attachment, not always available at a beach or at the ramp, (but pre mixed in another container would work and would be portable )
- also the product needs to rinse off and drip off, anywhere it puddles salt will reattach
Edited by MN3 on Dec 09, 2021 - 02:23 PM. -
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Posted: Dec 09, 2021 - 04:45 PM
After watching a trailer disintegrate in a relatively short period of time, I decided the only way to keep a trailer is to never put it in saltwater. I backup to the point the tires are just a inch or two in the water and push the boat off from there. It probably helps that I have a tilting trailer, but more so that the trailer extends far enough from the axle that the boat doesn't scrape bottom as it goes in the water. To retrieve the boat I use a winch. When I get home everything gets a fresh water rinse.
The Bore
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Dart 20
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