• normmyst55
  
  

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  • Registered: May 06, 2021
  • Last visit: Apr 05, 2022
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  Posted: May 23, 2021 - 02:11 PM

  Hi everyone, I’d like to thank you guys for all the high level technical discussions on this forum as it is my first post, particularly MN3, Wolfman, EdChris and many others long standing member. Short intro, I’ve been sailing my 1998 Mystere 5.5 (born sail 302) for 4 years now in beautiful fresh water lake St-Joseph near Quebec and it is in an outstanding shape, features a lot of upgrade and mods curing all Mystere ailments. (catsailor/beachcat courtesy) Last year I recuperated a 4 years old espadon series squaretop main ( sail 926 ) and mylar short JIB from another 5.5 that RIP’ed on lake Champlain on a downwind leg 4 man onboard mast breaking event. That substantially increased the power and responsiveness of the boat.
  
  
  
  
  I’m in racing mode most of the time and solo it 50/50. I’m now demanding much more from the boat than the previous owner as I also reinstated spi sailing. On this season's rigging, one of my to do list was realign the spreaders as they were offset from the 90 degrees position by a half inch, that was curving the mast a tiny bit, but upon inspection I discovered some corrosion in the diamond wires at the spreader contact point. (i learn't lately that it was sailed a couple time in salt water... good thing i checked...)
  
  After reviewing most of saltwater guys posts on corrosion and standing rigging on this forum, I decided on a full rigging change including diamond wires plus a trampoline (tired of sagging). It was way overdue anyway. I run the rig on the tight side.
  
  
  
  
  If you look at the pictures you can see a little pitting and gouging at spreader extremity. So my question is, would smoothing out and/or file a little bit the cable run on the spreader end be ok so the new cable vinyl doesn’t get squashed right away? I don’t want to create microscopic undue residue but i feel the new wire could suffer from the contact point. And, for durability would you line some heatshrink tubing over the cable (1 or 2 layer) close to contact point to further isolate the 2 metals and the ragged surface?
  
  In the process, I devised a diy (free in my toolbox) relative tension meter which is basically a harnessed digital torque meter adapter in a box featuring a rotating plate. It is very precise and sensitive, that was done to eliminate the guesswork reassembling everything. (I’m working on a formula to convert torque to tension with the apparatus) All pictures in my techphoto album.
  
  
  
  
  Lastly, for the benefit of all remaining Mystere owners, Voile Sansoucy, the maker is still in business and well in these tough times (search voile sansoucy on the net), and although not fabricating the late Espadon series at the moment, still carries a lot of spare parts from the past. Spoke to Yannick last week as he is gonna provide the rigging and tramp for my vintage.
  
  So refresh of not the contact point...
  
  --
  Norm F.
  1998 Mystere 5.5 Spi "Berkana"
  Quebec, Canada
  --

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• normmyst55
  
  

  • Rank: Lubber
  • Registered: May 06, 2021
  • Last visit: Apr 05, 2022
  • Posts: 15

  Posted: May 23, 2021 - 02:28 PM

  Re-post with working links this time...
  
  Hi everyone, I’d like to thank you guys for all the high level technical discussions on this forum as it is my first post, particularly MN3, Wolfman, EdChris and many others long standing member. Short intro, I’ve been sailing my 1998 Mystere 5.5 (born sail 302) for 4 years now in beautiful fresh water lake St-Joseph near Quebec and it is in an outstanding shape, features a lot of upgrade and mods curing all Mystere ailments. (catsailor/beachcat courtesy) Last year I recuperated a 4 years old espadon series squaretop main ( sail 926 ) and mylar short JIB from another 5.5 that RIP’ed on lake Champlain on a downwind leg 4 man onboard mast breaking event. That substantially increased the power and responsiveness of the boat.
  
  
  
  
  I’m in racing mode most of the time and solo it 50/50. I’m now demanding much more from the boat than the previous owner as I also reinstated spi sailing. On this season's rigging, one of my to do list was realign the spreaders as they were offset from the 90 degrees position by a half inch, that was curving the mast a tiny bit, but upon inspection I discovered some corrosion in the diamond wires at the spreader contact point. (i learn't lately that it was sailed a couple time in salt water... good thing i checked...)
  
  After reviewing most of saltwater guys posts on corrosion and standing rigging on this forum, I decided on a full rigging change including diamond wires plus a trampoline (tired of sagging). It was way overdue anyway. I run the rig on the tight side.
  
  
  
  
  If you look at the pictures you can see a little pitting and gouging at spreader extremity. So my question is, would smoothing out and/or file a little bit the cable run on the spreader end be ok so the new cable vinyl doesn’t get squashed right away? I don’t want to create microscopic undue residue but i feel the new wire could suffer from the contact point. And, for durability would you line some heatshrink tubing over the cable (1 or 2 layer) close to contact point to further isolate the 2 metals and the ragged surface?
  
  In the process, I devised a diy (free in my toolbox) relative tension meter which is basically a harnessed digital torque meter adapter in a box featuring a rotating plate. It is very precise and sensitive, that was done to eliminate the guesswork reassembling everything. (I’m working on a formula to convert torque to tension with the apparatus) All pictures in my techphoto album.
  
  
  
  
  Lastly, for the benefit of all remaining Mystere owners, Voile Sansoucy, the maker is still in business and well in these tough times (search voile sansoucy on the net), and although not fabricating the late Espadon series at the moment, still carries a lot of spare parts from the past. Spoke to Yannick last week as he is gonna provide the rigging and tramp for my vintage.
  So refresh of not the contact point...
  
  --
  Norm F.
  1998 Mystere 5.5 Spi "Berkana"
  Quebec, Canada
  --

  • 
  •  
• normmyst55
  
  

  • Rank: Lubber
  • Registered: May 06, 2021
  • Last visit: Apr 05, 2022
  • Posts: 15

  Posted: May 23, 2021 - 02:52 PM

  Hi everyone, I’d like to thank you guys for all the high level technical discussions on this forum as it is my first post, particularly MN3, Wolfman, EdChris and many others long standing member. Short intro, I’ve been sailing my 1998 Mystere 5.5 (born sail 302) for 4 years now in beautiful fresh water lake St-Joseph near Quebec and it is in an outstanding shape, features a lot of upgrade and mods curing all Mystere ailments. (catsailor/beachcat courtesy) Last year I recuperated a 4 years old espadon series squaretop main ( sail 926 ) and mylar short JIB from another 5.5 that RIP’ed on lake Champlain on a downwind leg 4 man onboard mast breaking event. That substantially increased the power and responsiveness of the boat.
  
  
  
  I’m in racing mode most of the time and solo it 50/50. I’m now demanding much more from the boat than the previous owner as I also reinstated spi sailing. On this season's rigging, one of my to do list was realign the spreaders as they were offset from the 90 degrees position by a half inch, that was curving the mast a tiny bit, but upon inspection I discovered some corrosion in the diamond wires at the spreader contact point. (i learn't lately that it was sailed a couple time in salt water... good thing i checked...)
  
  After reviewing most of saltwater guys posts on corrosion and standing rigging on this forum, I decided on a full rigging change including diamond wires plus a trampoline (tired of sagging). It was way overdue anyway. I run the rig on the tight side.
  
  
  
  
  If you look at the pictures you can see a little pitting and gouging at spreader extremity. So my question is, would smoothing out and/or file a little bit the cable run on the spreader end be ok so the new cable vinyl doesn’t get squashed right away? I don’t want to create microscopic undue residue but i feel the new wire could suffer from the contact point. And, for durability would you line some heatshrink tubing over the cable (1 or 2 layer) close to contact point to further isolate the 2 metals and the ragged surface?
  
  In the process, I devised a diy (free in my toolbox) relative tension meter which is basically a harnessed digital torque meter adapter in a box featuring a rotating plate. It is very precise and sensitive, that was done to eliminate the guesswork reassembling everything. (I’m working on a formula to convert torque to tension with the apparatus) All pictures in my techphoto album.
  
  
  
  
  Lastly, for the benefit of all remaining Mystere owners, Voile Sansoucy, the maker is still in business and well in these tough times (search voile sansoucy on the net), and although not fabricating the late Espadon series at the moment, still carries a lot of spare parts from the past. Spoke to Yannick last week as he is gonna provide the rigging and tramp for my vintage.
  So refresh of not the contact point...
  
  --
  Norm F.
  1998 Mystere 5.5 Spi "Berkana"
  Quebec, Canada
  --

  • 
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• MN3
  
  

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  Posted: May 23, 2021 - 02:57 PM

  Quote

  If you look at the pictures you can see a little pitting and gouging at spreader extremity. So my question is, would smoothing out and/or file a little bit the cable run on the spreader end be ok so the new cable vinyl doesn’t get squashed right away? I don’t want to create microscopic undue residue but i feel the new wire could suffer from the contact point. And, for durability would you line some heatshrink tubing over the cable (1 or 2 layer) close to contact point to further isolate the 2 metals and the ragged surface?
  

  
  
  I would isolate the new wires as much as possible
  I would not file it unless it has real need - (how old are these wires?)). clean, maybe replace a tired rivet or 2

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• normmyst55
  
  

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  Posted: May 23, 2021 - 03:04 PM

  So heatshrink tubing / tape, no messing with metal surface, these wires are the original ones, that means 23 years of light use...
  
  I'll pay attention to rivets as well
  
  thanks
  
  --
  Norm F.
  1998 Mystere 5.5 Spi "Berkana"
  Quebec, Canada
  --

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• Edchris177
  
  

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  Posted: May 23, 2021 - 10:53 PM

  If there is a sharp edge anywhere on the end of the spreader bar, nothing wrong with using a small round file to smooth it out. For the record, I have never touched any of the spreader bars on any of our Cats.
  DO SECURE THE DIAMOND WIRE - take a roll of coloured electrical tape, (don’t use the regular black stuff, it’s leaves sticky residue), wrap it around the Diamond wire, sort of a figure 8. This makes sure the wire cannot come out of the groove on the spreader bar.
  I like your ingenuity in reinventing a Loos gauge. You can now ensure equal tension on both sides. Your idea is a replica of the Loo’s gauge I use. You don’t need to make “pounds tension” markings in your setup, just mark it something like 1-10. Write down what each interval equates to. Then each season, just tighten your wires to whatever number you had last season
  I agree Yves is very personable, I split the tramp on my 6.0XL a few years ago. One phone call, he didn’t have one, but made one & had it at my door in a week.
  
  --
  Hobie 18 Magnum
  Dart 15
  Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
  Nacra 5.7
  Nacra 5.0
  Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
  Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
  --

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• Dogboy
  
  

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  Posted: May 24, 2021 - 11:47 AM

  It’s a little hard to see what’s going on in the pictures, but I’d be surprised if the wire was corroding. Stainless wire vs. aluminum hardware - the aluminum being the electrical anode should be the part that corrodes. I would just knock off any sharp edges and then probably put a nice blob of Tefgel on the connection before installing the wire. Then wrap with tape as described above.
  
  sm

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• normmyst55
  
  

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  Posted: May 24, 2021 - 10:43 PM

  Thanks for all the good advice. Dogboy i believe that explains well the cable being powdered without any sign of fault (although you can tell it was abused over the years) and the missing material in the aluminum side. I don't know if i can secure TEFGEL soon enough for cable change but i will carefully remove sharp edges, isolate the best i can and make sure taping prevent any wire getting out of its race.
  
  Ed, about the meter, i'll still try to come up with a formula but you are right about this job, the need is only to retighten the way it was, balance it and verify the first few sessions for stability.
  
  --
  Norm F.
  1998 Mystere 5.5 Spi "Berkana"
  Quebec, Canada
  --

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• Edchris177
  
  

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  Posted: May 25, 2021 - 08:41 AM

  This is what we use for all our Cats. It has 3 little cutouts, to identify cable diameter, & calibrated for the 3 common diameters found on Beachcats.
  https://www.grainger.ca/e…H9gzYEAQYASABEgJYD_D_BwE
  
  --
  Hobie 18 Magnum
  Dart 15
  Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
  Nacra 5.7
  Nacra 5.0
  Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
  Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
  --

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• MN3
  
  

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  Posted: May 25, 2021 - 09:13 AM

  Quote

  I don't know if i can secure TEFGEL soon enough for cable change but i will carefully remove sharp edges, isolate the best i can and make sure taping prevent any wire getting out of its race.

  
  Lanicote is another good product for anti corrosion
  
  As per the tape - this is not to hold the wire in the race. this is to prevent accidental movement of the spreaders. I have never ever heard of a spreader wire popping out of place. but many times have people "hit" the spreaders when stepping or dropping the mast, or when putting the boat on it's side. This can move the spreader arm up or down and if the angle is steep enough it can easily fail during use
  
  PS i prefer rigging tape as it leaves NO reside - i live in fl and it doesn't matter what color tape you use - it's a hot sticky mess in the end

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• charlescarlis
  
  

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  Posted: May 25, 2021 - 10:11 AM

  I've been partial to the thick, electrical tape that self-heals/self welds, whatever you call that. No real adhesive to it, so you have to keep it clean and stretch it tight against itself to stick. Maybe not so good for taping ring-dings but pretty god for diamond wires and stuff you won't take apart each time. A lot more expensive also... Still, no goo.
  
  --
  Chuck C.
  H21SE 408
  --

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• MN3
  
  

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  Posted: May 25, 2021 - 12:33 PM

  Rigging tape is self bonding
  i know they make self amalgamating tape for electrical too and i think i have seen these words on rigging tape - perhaps the same thing

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• normmyst55
  
  

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  Posted: May 25, 2021 - 02:09 PM

  Would you say this is similar or equivalent to tef-gel or Lanicote... Just that its readily available today ...
  
  https://www.canadiantire.…rease-28-g-0383747p.html
  
  --
  Norm F.
  1998 Mystere 5.5 Spi "Berkana"
  Quebec, Canada
  --

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• MN3
  
  

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  Posted: May 25, 2021 - 02:57 PM

  i don't know the chemistry (even if i did ....)
  
  but i would say no - that is for insulating electrical connectors -
  
  you are looking for a product to inhibit dissimilar metal parts from reacting galvanically.
  (i always thought galvanic corrosion and the sacrificial anode was a great band name)
  
  Tef jel is my preferred because it also does a great job with lubricating and anti seize but not really a factor here.
  
  truth is if you look at your current spreaders - there is mild to cosmetic / surface pitting and damage from what i see
  25 years with no issues .... and you are gonna wrap the wires at the contact point? i wouldn't sweat it. Order some and add it another time ... (still tape up your spreader ends)
  
  another suggestion i have heard is some people put a blob of epoxy on the spreader/wire connection (perhaps it was a blob just above and just below as to not get epoxy on the spreader hardware?)

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• normmyst55
  
  

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  Posted: May 25, 2021 - 04:27 PM

  OK, i'll take the wrapping route and good taping above that to secure the spreader, i'll review the surface edge at high magnification to make sure they are smooth.
  
  --
  Norm F.
  1998 Mystere 5.5 Spi "Berkana"
  Quebec, Canada
  --

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• dcwhite
  
  

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  Posted: May 29, 2021 - 09:04 AM

  After filing the aluminum spreaders (getting rid of the corrosion and sharp edges) consider coating the exposed aluminum surface with Bonderite M-CR 1201 before you tape everything together. This chemically converts the exposed aluminum to be corrosion resistant similar to the original anodize. It will not aesthetically match the anodize, but will stop future corrosion and is easily brushed on.
  
  --
  David
  Inter 20
  Southern Maine
  --

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• Dogboy
  
  

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  Posted: May 29, 2021 - 10:28 AM

  Yes, there are chemical conversion coatings that you can apply to exposed aluminum to help prevent corrosion. But I would suggest you check the SDS before purchasing. They tend to include some nasty chemicals (chromates in some cases) and are generally intended for industrial use.
  
  Just slapping on a nice blob of Tefgel might be a much more user friendly option.
  
  sm

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• normmyst55
  
  

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  Posted: May 31, 2021 - 06:29 PM

  Finally secured some tef-gel in my area, on top of lining a heat shrink jacket above the vinyl coating of wire, it should be good for the next 25 years.... the first 23 were uneventful... Also the electronic version of the loos gauge shown above will be calibrated indeed, i devised a jig with hanging weight to empirically equate torque to tension, more to come about linearity about weight and different wires sizes. Boat is on the water now, off to the season's tuning
  
  --
  Norm F.
  1998 Mystere 5.5 Spi "Berkana"
  Quebec, Canada
  --

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