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5/32 " 1X19 VINYL COATED ss WIRE  Bottom

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  • Anybody got a place to buy the above wire ,I need to make some custom rigging
    thanks



    Edited by onekiwi on Jan 31, 2021 - 04:33 PM.

    --
    Carl

    Dart 18x2
    Nacra 5.8
    1967 B-LION for sale
    1985 Hobie 18
    Windrider Rave x2 for sale
    --
  • dyneema, amsteel rope(used on all Americas Cup craft for last 10 years) often on sale by the spool at West Marine, a Chinese version black in color much cheaper on line, I bought a stainless ,with high nickle content( the more nickle the more rust resistant)spool 500 feet thru Defenders(i waited for sale price) but distributor was in the south east of US probably too costly to ship to downunder. I have 2 Dart 18s, had Nacra 5.2.5.5sl.5.7, 570 and Hobie 18 but that must be by elimination a Windrider foiling in you photo/please clue us in on performance
  • nofearofflyingdyneema, amsteel rope(used on all Americas Cup craft for last 10 years) often on sale by the spool at West Marine, a Chinese version black in color much cheaper on line, I bought a stainless ,with high nickle content( the more nickle the more rust resistant)spool 500 feet thru Defenders(i waited for sale price) but distributor was in the south east of US probably too costly to ship to downunder. I have 2 Dart 18s, had Nacra 5.2.5.5sl.5.7, 570 and Hobie 18 but that must be by elimination a Windrider foiling in you photo/please clue us in on performance


    huh?
  • Quotehuh?

    +1

    --
    Robert
    81' NACRA 5.2 "Chris's Flyer"
    Previously owned H18, Trac 14, G-Cat 5.0, H14T, H16, N5.0
    BYC, Mobile, AL
    --
  • PS West Marine in Fort Lauderdale Fla just fashioned(ask for Thurston) 2 "flexible" bridle wires/bow shrouds with flexible stainless(my son Andre and I out on D18 and starboard bridal wire failed at juncture with eyelet & bow shackle/ we came about immediately in 18 Ks gusting to 30Ks and miraculously the sails filled lifting the mast almost upright and we sailed back!)because Thurston felt he could not successfully make up with having to bend regular stainless over 'eyelets' as they had done for me before. I was initially reluctant because all my stays are intentionally oversized gauge stainless to accommodate mooring cat on mushroom anchors, the flexible wire he used was a smaller gauge. The new wires are extremely flexible and are coated. My mates Malcolm Stitt, Pete P(Tornados & iceboats) & Joe P(nacra 570) make up their stays. Why are you insistent on coated wire? We successfully use amsteel/synthetic on french made tri that carries a hugh genica and I always carry 60 feet in a hull and have used for forestay on Dart18 and N570 until replaced with stainless/ blizzard n'or easter here in "Big Apple " so im longwinded while "snowed in" expecting 17 inches
  • https://www.murrays.com/product/02-0051/

    https://www.versales.com/…tainless-Steel-Cable.htm

    https://www.theoutdoorsho…19_PVC_Coated_Wire_Cable

    Surprisingly hard to find. Change that 5/32 to 4mm and results improve.



    Edited by gahamby on Feb 01, 2021 - 03:55 PM.

    --
    '82 Super Cat 15
    Hull #315
    Virginia
    Previously owned: '70 H14, '79 H16, '68 Sailmaster 26, '85 H14T
    --
  • dyneema rope on sale as is swage tool at Defender,as are galvanized thimbles(eyelets)
  • Defender also has coated stainless but require you to specify
  • Man you gotta love the beachcats! some quick info, onekiwi is my handle but I live in California so no shipping overseas.The ready made shrouds seem kinda pricey but when you investigate the price of wire, fittings etc PLUS wrecked fingers from swageing tough wire they seem reasonable !! I need 5.8 shrouds maybe 6 inches longer as I have increased the width about 6 inches.Not really married to coated plain would be fine
    Here we go on the rave
    https://youtu.be/WHufItBUbqY
    The Rave is a lot of fun but you have to be an octopus to sail it so many things to do while sailing!



    Edited by onekiwi on Feb 02, 2021 - 12:47 AM.

    --
    Carl

    Dart 18x2
    Nacra 5.8
    1967 B-LION for sale
    1985 Hobie 18
    Windrider Rave x2 for sale
    --
  • McMaster Carr has the size wire you need, uncoated, sold in a variety of lengths, and generally delivered in a day.

    sm
  • QuoteNot really married to coated plain would be fine

    That makes it a whole lot easier. Uncoated 1x19 stainless is readily available.
    1x19 is a pain to work with. I made my own standing rigging. Given it to do again, I would buy pre-made.
    You probably can't go wrong with Murray's. You don't want to scrimp on standing rigging.

    --
    '82 Super Cat 15
    Hull #315
    Virginia
    Previously owned: '70 H14, '79 H16, '68 Sailmaster 26, '85 H14T
    --
  • Quoteas are galvanized thimbles(eyelets)

    I can't imagine using galvanized hardware anywhere on my boat.

    --
    '82 Super Cat 15
    Hull #315
    Virginia
    Previously owned: '70 H14, '79 H16, '68 Sailmaster 26, '85 H14T
    --
  • gahamby
    Quoteas are galvanized thimbles(eyelets)

    I can't imagine using galvanized hardware anywhere on my boat.

    +1
    wouldn't last in my saltwater
  • Bahama rigging by me made up some REALLY sweet, hydraulically swaged, integrated fittings; the loop is one drop forged eye so there's no thimble. I balked at first at the price; but man are they nicer, with no sharp edges, etc. All 316 wire/fittings; plain. I think for the entire boat, all clevis pins, etc. was around $550ish. That's 2 stays, forestay and jib halyard. Expensive? I don't know, but it's some nice jewelry I won't worry about for a while.

    --
    Chuck C.
    H21SE 408
    --
  • QuoteBahama rigging by me made up some REALLY sweet, hydraulically swaged,

    Like this?

    http://nebula.wsimg.com/a97f8e4317a9763ee4ce04a2d813614a?AccessKeyId=87C133EC01E5ED20DCE4&disposition=0&alloworigin=1

    If so - i don't see much benefit vs nicropress -they both can (and do fail) often in the same spot / anaerobic areas

    and unless you forgot to mention the bridals 550 sounds a little expensive - but you should never skimp on quality stays



    Edited by MN3 on Feb 03, 2021 - 11:41 AM.
  • Yup - forgot bridal wires - it was turnkey, every wire on the boat, except trapeze. Those are close to the fittings; If I think about it, I'll get some pics, but same idea. Maybe a bit expensive, but it's a local guy, good reference and I could do in-person business with him. Want to support where I can. I could also validate that the wire and fittings really are 316 grade stainless.

    And, yeah - I'm in saltwater here, so they are just as prone to corrosion as any other type fitting of same alloy I guess. Still, I think they're nicer handling, etc.

    --
    Chuck C.
    H21SE 408
    --
  • I agree on all points
    if was a full set - 5 standing plus a halyard - that price is fair

    supporting a local is a great thing
    having local support now and in the future is a great thing
    being able to drive to your supplier and not have to deal with shipping back any defects or issues is a great thing

    YES they are nicer to handle, you wont get the bitter end of a steel cable stabbing or cutting you, they look nicer and have less room to bounce around when slack/snap back - that may save some wear and tear on your hardware

    I have used these many times (i call them airplane fittings)
  • That's it - they look like airplane control cable fittings. I just wish I could afford the hydraulic tool used to make them, but can in no way justify the some $1,500 + to do so. I will, however stick to standard nico-press for the trapeze cables and nylon coated cables for comfort. Just replace frequently.

    Since I'm doing that very soon, it begs the question - How high/long is standard for trap wires, if you have a choice? I have wings on my boat and will size for that, but also have adjusters I can add to the trap wires. Right now, the cables seem entirely too long as you struggle to get back on and kind of flop out to go out. Not good for the wings and their attachments...

    --
    Chuck C.
    H21SE 408
    --
  • if your trap wires are too long they are a bit of a man overboard hazard as they can easily come "unconnected" during trapping out or coming back in

    You can ask other 21se owners here, or hobie forums or murry's or saltydog what "standard" is but you can also just measure what you have and remove the appropriate amount for your set up - conversely rig a line to your shackle/hound next time you rig and experiment with lengths via a bowline - tie off the line (to the mast probably) while you sail and when you take the mast down - remove the line and measure

    ps coated wires prevent inspection - not a huge issue on trap wires as they aren't critical to keeping the mast up.. and it is real fun to watch crew go for a swim if they fail - not so funny when it happens to a skipper. i find wires rarely fail - it's almost always the fitting - but if the wires to break a few strands (again usually at the fitting) this may be hidden

    My next trap wires will probably be 1' of steel cable and the rest dynema. the steel cable aloft will be to avoid chafe issues and the dynema will be easy and cheap for me to replace and splice as needed
  • Cool - For length, I was thinking about (really) at what height above the edge of the wings would be considered "about right"? For example - there's a youtoob video suggesting the bottom of the can't miss ring should be about a hands width or so above the upper, outer edge of the hull. Like the idea of a bolen and rope to start with as I can do this all in my back yard, where tools, etc. are close at hand. Guess that's the only way to see what may be right for me.

    Thanks.

    --
    Chuck C.
    H21SE 408
    --

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