Welcome anonymous guest

Please Support

I diamasted, please advice with the repair.  Bottom

Go to page [-1] 1 - 2:

  • AndinistaThe putty knife did work icon_smile . Just tested on an area but it appears to be straightforward. Thanks!

    Now that's commitment! Good luck and be sure to keep a record of the repair for future unfortunate mast demasters.

    NACRA 5.7 (1984 Sail 181)
  • I demasted once with a hobie 18 shroud pin popped out should have checked before I left at least have it taped up.In the middle of the Ottawa river which is 1 mile across at this point .Shroud let loose on the leeward side kept sailing till I literally hit shore and the mast just fell in the water no harm done bundled up my mast and lines and called my club for a tow .This was the lucky version ,yours not so much. Good luck with the repairs. icon_wink
  • Andinistahttps://www.thebeachcats.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=134070&g2_serialNumber=4
    Yes, it was evident.. I never imagined it would be corroded inside.

    With bigger boats, I find corroded stainless chainplates a lot. It is not surprising that it is corroded inside. Stainless doesn't like sitting water. Why it's very important to have caulk around the top of all the tangs.


    Prindle 18-2 Mod "FrankenKitty"
    Tornado Classic "Fast Furniture"
    Prindle 19 "Mr. Wiggly" - gone
    Nacra 5.8 "De ja vu"
    Nacra 5.0
    Nacra 5.8
    Tornadoes (Reg White)
  • i have had 2 chain plates fail
    both identical to yours
    the corrosion is just in the hull/epoxy - as scott said - common place for this
    the lack of oxygen in that location is the cause and well documented
    here are the images of my front tangs
  • Thanks for sharing! Mine isn't open yet, the shop is busy and I don't have the skills.. I will document too
  • A good case for rails and back up bars. What you see is what you get.

    Bill Townsend
    G-Cat 5.7
  • shortyfoxA good case for rails and back up bars. What you see is what you get.

    pros and cons to everything on a boat

    having exposed hardware is good for inspections and replacement but not the fastest design

    not too many manufactures care about 10,20,30, 40 years of vehicles service after the warranty expires
  • Hi everybody!
    I repaired the bow tangs too. Unfortunately I have no pictures because I wasn't there during the process. Some details:
    - The old tang wasn't removed, just the tip was cut from outside with a cutting disc. The rest of the tang was laminated inside the hull, it looked solid and didn't make sense to remove it as I though initially.
    - The new piece was made with two metal strips soldered together, and laminated over the fiber covering the old one (quite thick, you coudn't tell where the old one was). The fibre surface was worked out first to fit the new metal piece.
    - Before looking inside the hulls I was concerned about their strength to hold the mast load. But I saw that the fibreglass is very thick at that area, especially at the upper edge that will hold the horizontal part of the metal piece.
    - It wasn't necessary to remove the hull covers completely, just about 60 cm or so, which could be bent up and tied from the tip to the front beam to keep them open.

Go to page [-1] 1 - 2:

This list is based on users active over the last 60 minutes.