Welcome anonymous guest

Please Support
TheBeachcats.com

I diamasted, please advice with the repair.  Bottom

Go to page 1 - 2 [+1]:

  • It’s a Nacra 5.5, one or the forestay bridle anchors failed, cut just under the edge of the hull. I think it was corroded because the surface of the cut was dark.
    Anyone has replaced these anchors? I haven’t found a replacement yet, do they sell them? I see some for Hobies but not for Nacra. Any experience, advise, pictures will be appreciated.
    It happened on the shore, I was about to jump on the boat to start sailing. Curiously I had the bridle in my hand, I was pushing the boat from it. The mast came down rather slowly with no on close, fortunately. It was a bit hard to remove the mast afterwards, the forestay with the other bridle and bow foil ended up with tension against the opposite shroud. I had to remove the shackle on the mast tang. I’m glad I had pliers on the boat. Had to cut a rope too, glad I had my knife too. ( trying to see the positive side...)
    I think I have the incident on the GoPro, will share it later
  • You are probably going to have to open up the forward deck to access the chainplate. This is going to be a strip of stainless steel, and even if you can't find a part from a salvaged hull it should be possible to re-create in a shop. I have not previously heard of that part failing by fracturing above the hull. It had to have taken some bending in the past.

    --
    Tom
    NACRA 5.7 (1984 Sail 181)
    Pennsylvania
    --
  • What about laminating a tang onto the boat instead of cutting it open?
  • tominpaThis is going to be a strip of stainless steel

    How is It fixed to the hull? The shroud chainplates are bolted or riveted, I thought the bow ones would be shaped to distribute the load inside the hull, or bolted to something inside. Just a straight plate seems weak? I hope it’s not necessary to remove too much fiberglass around it to take it off



    Edited by Andinista on Nov 23, 2020 - 07:03 AM.
  • ziper1221What about laminating a tang onto the boat instead of cutting it open?

    That sounds not strong nor clean enough?



    Edited by Andinista on Nov 23, 2020 - 07:25 AM.
  • https://www.thebeachcats.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=134070&g2_serialNumber=4
    https://www.thebeachcats.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=134073&g2_serialNumber=4
    Yes, it was evident.. I never imagined it would be corroded inside.
  • And the video...
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IgGG0U3SEZo
    I could have turned the boat around and reach the beach downwind, the mast would have stayed up and I could have taken it down in more control and with help. Of course I didn't think of that, there was no people close so I thought it was the best thing to let it fall right there.
    I secure the daggerboards with that line and carabiner after I saw a daggerboard falling down on a capsize. I'll change the line with a bungee.



    Edited by Andinista on Nov 23, 2020 - 08:22 AM.
  • AndinistaAnd the video...!


    The lack of expletives is truly remarkable. icon_smile

    Another thing to keep in mind is that if one side let go, the other side is suspect and should probably also be replaced.

    sm
  • Dogboy
    AndinistaAnd the video...!


    The lack of expletives is truly remarkable. icon_smile

    Another thing to keep in mind is that if one side let go, the other side is suspect and should probably also be replaced.

    sm

    Yes, I wouldn't rely on the other one, mainly because of the rust stains. The shroud plates on the other hand look good, I'll remove them for inspection but won't replace them if not corroded.
  • You will have to pop the front deck plate off to access the bridle anchor as Tom stated. I have never done it but
    it seems easy enough. I wonder if this may be the part you need?

    https://www.h2o-sensation…-vorm-2000000001951.html

    --
    Pete Knapp
    Schodack landing,NY
    Nacra I20,P18, P16,H16
    --
  • The first step is to pop the top deck, and see what you have inside. There are a number of photos and videos on the forum showing NACRA decks being removed and re-glued. I don't know how this is attached or even its shape, but all of that will be very quickly determined once you have a view. It would not surprise me if there is an internal block that is laminated to the hull, and the tang is attached and laminated to that. Hope you will let us know what you find, and double check the shroud chainplates inside the hull...you already have a port.

    That was a nicely controlled demasting. Could have been a lot worse if you were out on the water, and luck of the draw, you were just launching.



    Edited by tominpa on Nov 23, 2020 - 11:37 AM.

    --
    Tom
    NACRA 5.7 (1984 Sail 181)
    Pennsylvania
    --
  • Unfortunately this repair isn’t all that uncommon.

    I can relate to that helpless feeling when it popped off in your hand. Some of the old-school guys I see it with are very leery about pushing or pulling a boat by the bridles at any point. I find the orientation of yours curious as it seems most of them are mounted vertically over flat.

    --
    Greenville SC

    Offering sails and other go fast parts for A-class catamarans
    --
  • You won’t be able to check the shroud chain plates, they are under the 2nd bit of decking.
    It is not difficult to remove the front deck.
    A small ball peen hammer & a stiff putty knife. Often the regular putty knife,(yellow/green handle), work, but if not stiff enough get one with the thicker metal. They don’t all come off the same, I saw one old 5.2 removed just jamming the putty knife by hand.
    Work it underneath, then using the hammer tap & work your way around the deck perimeter. I have also seen a fellow who owns an aeronautical engineering firm remove the deck from a 5.2 using an air chisel, with a fine blade, that went REALLY quick.
    The deck will not come off with smooth edges, but don’t sand them down. Once you grind out & attach the new anchor mix a bit of epoxy, thickened with microfibres. Paint that on, place the deck, then a layer of Saran Wrap, then some sand bags to ensure the deck is compressed everywhere onto the hull. There will be a couple of cross braces between the sides of the hull.
    There is enough room to get an angle grinder inside once the deck is off. Best have the hull separated, gravity can be your friend when setting the new fitting.
    Make sure you attach the fitting properly, once you epoxy that deck back on, it will NOT want to come off easily.
    I’m surprised you didn’t bend the DS rod, something at the mast base usually gives if the mast is lowered without being turned 90*.
    Here is what the fron looks like inside.
    https://www.thebeachcats.…aedefdb468dae2a12d81e355



    Edited by Edchris177 on Nov 23, 2020 - 02:42 PM.

    --
    Hobie 18 Magnum
    Dart 15
    Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
    Nacra 5.7
    Nacra 5.0
    Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
    Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
    --
  • Edchris177You won’t be able to check the shroud chain plates, they are under the 2nd bit of decking.
    It is not difficult to remove the front deck.
    A small ball peen hammer & a stiff putty knife. Often the regular putty knife,(yellow/green handle), work, but if not stiff enough get one with the thicker metal. They don’t all come off the same, I saw one old 5.2 removed just jamming the putty knife by hand.
    Work it underneath, then using the hammer tap & work your way around the deck perimeter. I have also seen a fellow who owns an aeronautical engineering firm remove the deck from a 5.2 using an air chisel, with a fine blade, that went REALLY quick.
    The deck will not come off with smooth edges, but don’t sand them down. Once you grind out & attach the new anchor mix a bit of epoxy, thickened with microfibres. Paint that on, place the deck, then a layer of Saran Wrap, then some sand bags to ensure the deck is compressed everywhere onto the hull. There will be a couple of cross braces between the sides of the hull.
    There is enough room to get an angle grinder inside once the deck is off. Best have the hull separated, gravity can be your friend when setting the new fitting.
    Make sure you attach the fitting properly, once you epoxy that deck back on, it will NOT want to come off easily.
    I’m surprised you didn’t bend the DS rod, something at the mast base usually gives if the mast is lowered without being turned 90*.
    Here is what the fron looks like inside.
    https://www.thebeachcats.…aedefdb468dae2a12d81e355Edited by Edchris177 on Nov 23, 2020 - 02:42 PM.


    Thank you! Very useful tips. I won't repair it myself but take it to a boat shop, but last time they couldn't remove the deck plates and I had to add an access port in front of the front beam. I'll try harder myself now, with the putty knife. If on a previous repair (previous owner) they were epoxied, I wonder if it will still be possible to take them off.
    The mast landed rotated, fortunately, I think the rod is ok. Will re-inspect a couple things before sailing again though.
  • Quoteind the orientation of yours curious as it seems most of them are mounted vertically over flat

    It's 45° actually, similar to the bridles angle, that seems ok.
  • My thought on shroud chainplate inspection is based on the location of the deck ports which should provide inspection access.

    The removal of deck plates becomes much more difficult if they have previously been removed and epoxied in place.

    --
    Tom
    NACRA 5.7 (1984 Sail 181)
    Pennsylvania
    --
  • Andinista
    ziper1221What about laminating a tang onto the boat instead of cutting it open?

    That sounds not strong nor clean enough?Edited by Andinista on Nov 23, 2020 - 07:25 AM.

    good enough for forestays
    http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cjQwXBylsDg/UTODT1RIymI/AAAAAAAAElk/2DYNgAUWNvQ/s640/025-LP.jpg
  • Thanks, I'll consider it among the options
  • The putty knife did work icon_smile . Just tested on an area but it appears to be straightforward. Thanks!
  • QuoteI’m surprised you didn’t bend the DS rod, something at the mast base usually gives if the mast is lowered without being turned 90*.

    The mast went down with tension on one shroud against the remainder of the forestay, I think that helped to make the mast base rotate against the rod.

Go to page 1 - 2 [+1]:

This list is based on users active over the last 60 minutes.