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Switching to 8:1; boom attachment??  Bottom

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  • MN3https://www.thebeachcats.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=133634&g2_serialNumber=3



    https://www.thebeachcats.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=133635&g2_serialNumber=3

    looks to me you could remove that entire cleat assembly and replace with a stock cleat. use some nylon washers or composite ones and build up a fairlead with an eyestrap and avoid all those issues


    Concidentally, my friend, Bob Martinez was at the harbor yesterday showing me this exact same set up which I will be going with. (By the way, I removed the entire fairlead to see how that would work and you probably already know that this did not work at all.)

    Had the boat out in relatively heavy solo stuff yesterday, and finding the 12:1 both good and bad. Way easier sheeting obviously, but you have to move a lot of line to make an adjustment. This boat has a harken traveler and track installed. Since the P19 typically has an integrated track, I'm thinking this is a forward beam with the track installed on it. Or just another one off from the factory as I am finding these boats sometimes vary a bit. Given the great performance of the traveler, I may just start controlling trim with it. I've done it and it works well. Just feels kinda weird not having a sheet in my hand.

    --
    Bill Mattson
    Prindle 19 "Gelli Bean"
    Prindle 19 "Cat's Pajamas"
    --
  • ... And I've got my old P19 disassembled in the yard. I just measured the front and rear cross beams on and they are not the same length. So if somebody DID put a front crossbeam on the rear of the boat, I've got a whole different problem. Will measure when I get to the harbor later.

    --
    Bill Mattson
    Prindle 19 "Gelli Bean"
    Prindle 19 "Cat's Pajamas"
    --
  • wowza!
  • Crossbars are the correct length. I'll need another excuse for my racing performance.

    --
    Bill Mattson
    Prindle 19 "Gelli Bean"
    Prindle 19 "Cat's Pajamas"
    --
  • mattsonCrossbars are the correct length. I'll need another excuse for my racing performance.

    hahah~
  • Looks like Murray’s has a “high roller” fairlead kit which is the spacers to give the larger area in the fairlead.

    --
    Scott,
    ‘92 H18 w/SX wings
    ‘95 Hobie Funseeker 12 (Holder 12)
    --
  • smfinleyLooks like Murray’s has a “high roller” fairlead kit which is the spacers to give the larger area in the fairlead.


    Just viewed this. I figured somebody must be selling those. As it is, I purchased a couple of nylon spacers for 89 cents and cut some 1 inch lengths off a sprinkler riser pipe I got for a buck. The riser pipe fits perfectly over the spacers and rotates. Put it all over a couple of long stainless bolts I had in stock. Works way, WAY better on the water than what I had before.

    --
    Bill Mattson
    Prindle 19 "Gelli Bean"
    Prindle 19 "Cat's Pajamas"
    --
  • Not sure why you don't want to spend $60 plus shipping ... :)

    https://www.murrays.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/56-9954.jpg

    (well done sir!)



    Edited by MN3 on Aug 31, 2020 - 09:01 AM.
  • MN3Not sure why you don't want to spend $60 plus shipping ... :)

    https://www.murrays.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/56-9954.jpg

    (well done sir!)Edited by MN3 on Aug 31, 2020 - 09:01 AM.


    That's pricey! One reason I just went cheap was that I was not sure if it would work, so I figured I'd go with the real ones after trying mine. But mine work so well, I'll just stick with them.

    Still amazes me that I spend over $650 on a set of blocks and they didn't work right until I modified them. BTW, I also defeated one of the blocks and turned it into a 10:1. The 12:1 is just too much line to move when making adjustments.

    --
    Bill Mattson
    Prindle 19 "Gelli Bean"
    Prindle 19 "Cat's Pajamas"
    --
  • DogboyI would recommend moving the forward bale back and doubling up the aft bale if only using a single attachment point.

    Charlescarlis,
    If you choose to do this, align the bottom hoops of the bales close enough together to get a shackle around them, but angle the straps on each side in a V formation to get as much metal as possible between the rivet holes in the two straps. Your mainsheet (and the wind force it counters) can generate enough power to crack the boom extrusion between two side-by-side rivets and form a common channel. This is as undesirable as cracking a boom bale, if not more so, because it will be hidden under the bales.

    --
    Sheet In!
    Bob
    _/)_____/)_/)____/)____/)_____/)/)__________/)__
    Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
    Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
    AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
    (Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
    Arizona, USA
    --
  • If you are mounting bales to the P19 boom, be aware of the outhaul traveler car. If you are in range of the car, you have to mount the bale about as low as possible to not interfere with it.

    --
    Bill Mattson
    Prindle 19 "Gelli Bean"
    Prindle 19 "Cat's Pajamas"
    --
  • mattsonIf you are mounting bales to the P19 boom, be aware of the outhaul traveler car. If you are in range of the car, you have to mount the bale about as low as possible to not interfere with it.

    Really good point Bill.
    Take the rest of the day off and sail the Channel.
    You deserve it.

    --
    Sheet In!
    Bob
    _/)_____/)_/)____/)____/)_____/)/)__________/)__
    Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
    Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
    AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
    (Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
    Arizona, USA
    --
  • Alright! That's the plan-double offset at an angle. Will set up Friday for a Saturday sail with my kids out to Redfish Island...

    --
    Chuck C.
    H21SE 408
    --

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