looking for a better way to fix a leak in a board well
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Posted: Jul 17, 2019 - 09:53 AM
the hole is not on the wall where it would touch the board
it is inside a recess just is inside the lip.
look at the pic again : instead of looking at the arrow at the bottom of the well (where the leak is) look at the top of the well, on the left - it's the exact same shape
i don't think a patch is the right call because the patch would be almost impossible to get in the exact right location and if it was hanging outside the recess at all - it will scratch up the board
I am tempted to use 2 part pool epoxy - it stays flexible and can last for a very long time and is a 4 minute job (just mix it and smoosh it into the hole)
But i know the right way is to flip, and add some vacuum
thanks all!
Edited by MN3 on Jul 17, 2019 - 09:56 AM. -
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Posted: Jul 17, 2019 - 11:06 AM
Andrew
What about the use of a rat tail file to sand it down? Round Rat Tail Diamond Needle Files 10-Inch Round Shape 180#
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They come in different sizes, lengths and coarseness.
Forrest
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Forrest
I-20 USA-645
Hernando, Florida
"There's not enough rum in the drum"
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Posted: Jul 17, 2019 - 11:10 AM
Or use a wielding rod with a Dremel barrel sander head on the end. Use the Dremal for power and reach down and sand it that way
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Forrest
I-20 USA-645
Hernando, Florida
"There's not enough rum in the drum"
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Posted: Jul 17, 2019 - 02:11 PM
HI Forrest - thanks for the input
i have round files that are pretty similar to the rat tail ones you show -
as per the dremel ... i am a little hesitant to put a power tool in there ... where i can't see - i am sure it could be done but i am sure i could screw that up too... the walls are really thin in spots and it would be tough to feather any sanding without enlarging the hole (i think)
i am gonna try to sans power tools but thanks for the tip if i need to get some powersanding in there
Edited by MN3 on Jul 17, 2019 - 02:12 PM. -
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Posted: Jul 17, 2019 - 04:27 PM
Tip the boat on its side. Not too bad with a second person. Then you will likely be able to get in there with a hand and sandpaper. I could on the Infusion trunk, similar location, this is the Mk. 2 trunk that is very narrow. Scuff the trunk, wet out a piece of 6oz fiberglass, guide into place with sticks as necessary. Let cure and go sailing.
I say all this because the centerboard doesn't contact that location per your description and 6oz cloth is 0.010" thick, so won't change the contact either. Brushing G/Flex in will likely work just as well, but you have more control with 6oz cloth in terms of wet out and you can let tack up before installation.
I did the same thing but used a tube of UV cure epoxy in addition to the fiberglass: https://www.solarez.com/product/solarez-extreme-3-5-oz-tube/
Amazon carries it as well. This was an on the beach repair in the Florida 300 and it held for the next 200 miles so... -
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Posted: Jul 17, 2019 - 04:36 PM
This is how we fixed a similar leak in the side of P18-2 trunk. It was a bit easier because it was at the joint of the hull and trunk, so easier access. G-flex and cloth were easy to work with when boat was on its side. -
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Posted: Jul 18, 2019 - 10:02 AM
Andrew,
Some dremels offer flex cables about 18-20" long This way the sander stays outside and you sand with the cable and just head. Think of a dentist. Check Walmart for them or hobby shop. I had to grind out the glue on carpet in my well to replace the padding Dusty, but works well.
Good luck
Forrest
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Forrest
I-20 USA-645
Hernando, Florida
"There's not enough rum in the drum"
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Posted: Jul 18, 2019 - 10:19 AM
Good idea
i see walmart has these - something . tells me they have this connected wrong
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Posted: Jul 18, 2019 - 10:41 AM
Nope, that image shows the tool rigged correctly. It isn't that much smaller than a regular dremel.
I recently saw a Ryobi tool that is very similar, as they made it compatible with their existing lithium drill batteries so had to go to a remote tool head.
Honestly though I think you are overthinking the job...a piece of 80 grit sandpaper is enough to scuff for adhesion of a fiberglass patch.
Edited by samc99us on Jul 18, 2019 - 11:48 AM. -
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Posted: Sep 19, 2019 - 01:59 PM
I feel for your small clearances. I have a slight leak in a Tennant T9 dagger well... and I can get my hand in there pretty well, since the boards are WAY bigger. The other well is even more entertaining, as there is a jam that no longer allows full insertion of the dagger. Fun.
The better prepared your surfaces are, the better the bond will be. Pre-scuff, and then wipe and irrigate the area with a solvent friendly to whatever adhesive you plan to use (taking care of any foam it may contact)... and leave a fan blowing to clear that solvent.
Use gravity to your best advantage, dunno about the vacuum unless you've got good control over where the epoxy flows when it pulls through. Peelply might help contain the epoxy, but it can't be manipulated/stretched/formed like 'glass... so definitely dry-fit.
Try to patch from outside AND inside, as well... ideally, one within the cure time of the other so that you've basically got an hourglass patch larger on both ends (convoluted as the inside may be).
Post up an update when you're done!
Randii
