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Shackle Size?  Bottom

  • I'm putting together another adjustable-height trap setup with a couple of these clamcleats:
    https://www.murrays.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/27-0253.jpg
    What size shackle is appropriate for these?
    I have multiple loose spare shackles, and one of them fits, but several don't. The ID of the hole is a limiting factor, and the span of the opening for the shackle can interfere.

    I swung past West Marine, and they had minimal assortment for these smaller bits. I was ready to spend a little, just to be ready to go on the water, too!

    I'm looking to stock up on a few of these, and Amazon can get them to me pretty cheap tomorrow:
    https://www.amazon.com/Pi…inless+steel+bow+shackle

    ...but I'd rather find out the CORRECT dimension and not just guess.



    Edited by randii on Sep 28, 2018 - 12:58 PM.
  • Seems like too sharp of corners to depend on soft shackles, which was an early thought.
  • i think mine is set up like this (but i have to check)
    https://www.murrays.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/01-1130.jpg

    so the only shackle needed is the one that connects to the trap cable and any small shackle will do that has a rating of 500 lbs or more (double the weight of big crew so at 2x g-forces should hold up during a wicked peter-pan or stuff)



    I will post pics when i can



    Edited by MN3 on Sep 29, 2018 - 08:06 AM.
  • Yup, that's the one I'm planning to use... just hoping to get a clear specification on it!

    Randii
  • https://www.thebeachcats.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=130495&g2_serialNumber=3

    https://www.thebeachcats.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=130493&g2_serialNumber=4
  • I believe the cleat is a 3/16" hole. If so, I would use a 3/16" shackle with the allen flat head, instead of the screw pin with the finger tab. Simular to https://www.westmarine.com/buy/wichard--self-locking-stainless-steel-allen-head-shackles--P012420337?recordNum=85

    I have found many times the adjustment line catches on the screw pin with the finger tab. The flat head screw pin tens to stay more flush. They are a bit more expensive, but may cause less problems down the road.

    --
    Scott

    Prindle 18-2 Mod "FrankenKitty"
    Tornado Classic "Fast Furniture"
    Prindle 19 "Mr. Wiggly" - gone
    Nacra 5.8 "De ja vu"
    Nacra 5.0
    Nacra 5.8
    Tornadoes (Reg White)
    --
  • Looking at Andrew's photo, it appears that the trapeze line is connected at the bottom right corner with a plastic hook. Unless I'm losing context not seeing it on the boat, it seems that if that hook breaks, the whole trapeze system comes apart. Am I right about that?

    --
    Dana, Holly, Emma & Hannah

    LJ/Stu's Dart 18
    --
  • No, that’s the “return” bungee. If that breaks the trap is still going to hold, but it will flop around freely when not hooked up.

    --
    Tim
    Collierville (Memphis), TN
    Supercat 15--sold :(
    Hobie monocat--given
    Vanguard 15--traded for...
    Nacra 4.5--sold
    Nacra 5.7
    Hobie 14–sold to make room for...
    Supercat 17
    --
  • Gotcha. On our boat, that hook gets connected to the bottom of the dogbone, except we have the weird oval like one in the picture.

    --
    Dana, Holly, Emma & Hannah

    LJ/Stu's Dart 18
    --
  • QuoteLooking at Andrew's photo, it appears that the trapeze line is connected at the bottom right corner with a plastic hook.

    What hook? I don't see any hook in the image

    Edit - oh not my set up but the example image
    Yea i don't have a clip like that for 2 reasons
    that clip holds the "dogbone" (actually called a can't miss ring) in the UP possition ... that is right inline with your/crew's face and teeth (no good)

    also as stated that plastic clip is not secure and can/will break free - so in a peter pan you will fly "free" (not good)
    I tie the dogbone to the bungee under the boat. this keeps it as low as possible, stops the dogbone from freely swinging and MAY"reduce" flight patterns in a peter-pan (depending on how much flex you have in your bungee setup)



    Edited by MN3 on Oct 03, 2018 - 09:03 AM.
  • MN3 already posted the correct use of the bungi cord and clip. It needs to hold the "dogbone" up against the pulley, and allow it to be pulled down to your harness. The Bungie stretches as you stand out on the trapeze, and retracts as you return to the deck.

    https://www.murrays.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/01-1130.jpg[img][/img]

    --
    Tom
    NACRA 5.7 (1984 Sail 181)
    Pennsylvania
    --
  • Here's what I went with: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071Y57Y8H

    It is a 3/16 D-shackle instead of a bow shackle (not really a multidirectional load that would require a bow shackle)... the 'throat' of the shackle clears just over 7/16" (11mm), so it works for the clamcleats. That's 550lbs working load and 4X that for breaking load. Both the pin and the shackle itself are formed from 3/16-diameter stock.

    At this price, there's no way these are American made, but I was pleased at the thread and part finishing, these look good. I have purchased some shackles where the threads were poorly formed and the pin was machined off-axis to the threaded boss in the shackle -- in an Amazon world, we get to do our own first article inspections and follow-up QA.

    Randii



    Edited by randii on Oct 02, 2018 - 06:00 PM.
  • I would _not_ put metal shackes on this, _at all_. A bowline, a splice, or just a stopper knot (8, monkey fist...) are appropriate.

    Do not want to be smacked in the face with a metal shackle. The cleats are as lightweight as possible, and it's too much metal swinging in front of my face already.
  • Let me clarify -- I use dyneema lines for trapeze "wires". If you're already dealing with metal thimbles, then... yeah. But soft shackles or a regular line with a knot work well on those blocks. No chafing.
  • I definitely understand your concern -- I've beaned my own self on these bits previously, and I care more about my crew's noggin than my own (I'd suffer more silently!). That said, I have the clamcleat is a bigger chunk of metal than the thimble or shackle, and the clamcleat itself has some fairly sharp edges to turn a line over/against (probably could be polished/smoothed).

    Given infinite time and budget, dyneema lines are better (less weight aloft!) and lighter/softer bits are better. In this case, I'm just adding a second set of adjustable traps to make it as pleasant as possible for my crew... who won't suffer discomfort quietly. :p She's already pretty unimpressed with the trap seat itself, I'm trying to get her past that as simply as possible and into the FUN of being on the wire. You aren't wrong that there's a risk of smacking her in the face with these. Hopefully I can get her hooked to riding the wire BEFORE that happens!

    Randii

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