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Prindle Rebuild  Bottom

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  • pbegleA bottom job should cost you no more than $100 and an hours work if done by yourself. Qt of epoxy & pumps from Jamestown Dist. and 3" fiberglass tape. Brushes from Home Depot. Take off rudders, flip boat & go to work making sure to do a "dry" job rather than sloppy job that leaves too much resin dripping down hull side. Pete


    If you use the West System rollers, people will think you vacuum-bagged it. They do an excellent job of only applying what you need.

    --
    Scott

    Prindle Fleet 2
    TCDYC

    Prindle 18-2 Mod "FrankenKitty"
    Tornado Classic "Fast Furniture"
    Prindle 19 "Mr. Wiggly"
    Nacra 5.8 "De ja vu"
    Nacra 5.0
    Nacra 5.8
    Tornadoes (Reg White)
    --
  • From personal experience, I would replace the bolts attaching the dolphin striker. I have proven that they can shear.

    --
    Scott

    Prindle Fleet 2
    TCDYC

    Prindle 18-2 Mod "FrankenKitty"
    Tornado Classic "Fast Furniture"
    Prindle 19 "Mr. Wiggly"
    Nacra 5.8 "De ja vu"
    Nacra 5.0
    Nacra 5.8
    Tornadoes (Reg White)
    --
  • texastumaFrom personal experience, I would replace the bolts attaching the dolphin striker. I have proven that they can shear.


    Thanks... I have already looked after them and all the others....

    Had a friend that on the USS JFK back when the F14 was the pride of the fleet... He use to work on them and told me they had protocol for the F-14 called "Exercising the Nuts" that is they was loosen, inspect, replace and "regupe" (anit-sieze) if needed all critical fasteners.

    --
    John Schwartz
    Ventura, CA
    --
  • Yo John! We're itchin for an update on this restoration. Can you create an album of the highlights and some sailing picts. Did you document the bottom job?

    Got to be a classic.

    --
    Prindle 18
    96734
    --
  • The aluminum bar stock on inside hull lip that anchors the eyestrap screw (holding bridle) can turn to powder after 20 years in salt water. Better to replace on salt water boats. Pete
  • So..... after some grueling hours on some re-organization management stuff at work and accomplishing some personal goals I have been wanting to get done for a while now, some time came up this weekend and I was finally able to get the boat on the water for the first time since the overhaul.

    The square top mainsail is a great improvement over the traditional pin-top sails (just a puff and she accelerates with ease.), and a new jib.... we all now the improvement that makes... Also, having the Prindle Gen II rudders on this boat makes turning so easy, or should I say the helm is a lot more responsive then the older squared rudders that were stock. Having just about 1/2" of rudder rake and about 14" of mast rake seems to be the sweet spot as had just the slightest drift to weather...

    Even though the day didn't offer the usual 10 Kt winds we're accustom to here, it was a good day non the less for a "shakedown" sail...

    Here she is sitting at the dock ready to go...

    https://www.thebeachcats.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=131579&g2_serialNumber=4



    Edited by JohnES on Jun 10, 2019 - 03:47 PM.

    --
    John Schwartz
    Ventura, CA
    --
  • Finally! icon_biggrin Awesome Glasier main. I really like that window.

    No battens in the jib?

    --
    Prindle 18
    96734
    --
  • nohuhuFinally! icon_biggrin Awesome Glasier main. I really like that window.

    No battens in the jib?


    Yes there are... I forgot to put them in... did so after I took to photo...

    --
    John Schwartz
    Ventura, CA
    --
  • looks real nice John - enjoy
  • Really beautiful! May I ask, what is the roller furling that you have?

    --
    Prindle 16
    --
  • dmydlackReally beautiful! May I ask, what is the roller furling that you have?

    The kit that comes for Murrays Marine.. Harkan Roller furler drum and Ronstan spinner

    https://www.murrays.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/30-5061.jpg

    --
    John Schwartz
    Ventura, CA
    --
  • My P18.2 (bought used) came with that roller furler and it works very nicely.

    However, my jib has two horizontal batten pockets that extend from the leach forward about 10", yet there were no battens in them when I got it. I assume the prior owner may have removed them so he could use the furler. However, in strong air I was getting significant fluttering along the jib leech right where the largest batten pocket is located, and I noticed the sail material in that area seemed to have lost its stiffness. I felt that was probably degrading the performance of the jib (and maybe main too), so I just had battens installed - which means I won't be able to use the furler, or won't be able to use it all the way. Maybe something to consider re getting a furler.

    PS, compliments on the refurbished boat - looks like new in photos.



    Edited by CatFan57 on Jun 12, 2019 - 02:38 PM.

    --
    1998 P18.2
    Sailing out of SHBCC, NJ
    --
  • you can get new batten pockets that are angled and allow you to furl your jib and have battens too
  • same kit on mine
    https://www.thebeachcats.com/pictures?g2_itemId=128562&g2_GALLERYSID=eb1256883ad86d2562d1971165bc91af



    Edited by carl2 on Jun 12, 2019 - 02:55 PM.
  • https://www.thebeachcats.…3ad86d2562d1971165bc91af

    Randy Smyth made my furling jib



    Edited by carl2 on Jun 12, 2019 - 03:03 PM.
  • Same kit here.

    I pulled the battens after they started to damage the sail and the cover. They are fine for sailing but not for storage. My next jib will be built to furl.

    BTW, the screw-pin holding the pigtail and swivel together will work loose. You could lose a mast. I would check it at least once a year.

    --
    Prindle 18
    96734
    --
  • nohuhuBTW, the screw-pin holding the pigtail and swivel together will work loose. You could lose a mast. I would check it at least once a year.


    Didn't know that, never examined it closely, thanks for the tip, will check mine, no, don't feel like losing a mast.

    --
    1998 P18.2
    Sailing out of SHBCC, NJ
    --
  • yikes!
    how bout using some Loctite or similar?
  • Fer sure. It comes pre-assembled by Murrays, and apparently they didn’t use any.

    In fact, it’s a low profile pin and you wouldn’t even think to check it. But a furling forestay, with a snorkel is subject to tons of vibration and rotation that a static forestay, minus the sail, does not contend with.

    I recently had an upper forestay shackle fail (on the icon_eek water) and discovered that the swivel pin was walking itself loose too. Everything was less than 2 years old, and stored mast up.

    It’s a good idea to use only LOCKING shackles and also periodically inspect the turnbuckle buried inside your jib luff sleeve.

    --
    Prindle 18
    96734
    --
  • QuoteFer sure. It comes pre-assembled by Murrays, and apparently they didn’t use any.

    In fact, it’s a low profile pin and you wouldn’t even think to check it. But a furling forestay, with a snorkel is subject to tons of vibration and rotation that a static forestay, minus the sail, does not contend with.

    I recently had an upper forestay shackle fail (on the water) and discovered that the swivel pin was walking itself loose too. Everything was less than 2 years old, and stored mast up.

    It’s a good idea to use only LOCKING shackles and also periodically inspect the turnbuckle buried inside your jib luff sleeve.


    I didn't want to say anything negative but i prefer harken upper swivel for beach cats
    most other (20' dingy size) brands aren't serviceable and i have seen several ronstan (and other branbds) fail - but you can change bearings out on the harken ones

    as per the pin walking - i have found as long as i put a tool on the shackle to secure it - i have never had one work free - i have several that have bent and worn but never lost a pin unless it was hand secured
    (non mast up storage)

    "LOCKING shackles " - what do you mean? ones with a hole in the pin's head for seizing wire?

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