I'm psyched over the top to be the new owner of a 1998 P18-2, and am putting up my first post here to say hi and thanks to the forum owner and contributors. This forum has been a big help to me already.
Here's a pic of the boat:
And here's a video of a prior owner sailing it in high winds in the Barnegat Bay, NJ. Man this thing moves!
I have not previously been a beachcat (or any sailboat) owner. My background is sailing a sunfish as a kid (taught by my Dad, forever grateful, RIP), and later I rented P16s and sailed them pretty hard. So I got to like Prindles. But that was 25-30 years ago -- til last summer I rented a Hobie Wave, which was great, and I got the bug to get something.
So this winter I started looking and immediately saw a good-looking P18-2 for sale on craigslist only an hour from me. I had no idea what a P18-2 was, except I knew Prindle. So I found this forum, where I found all these great reviews and info about it. You guys said it's based on the Tornado design, so it's a good design that really moves, but the retractable centerboards would be great for shallow water sailing, which is what we've got here in the Barnegat.
You guys also said if it's your first boat you should buy what's near you that seems to be in good condition.
So I took all that to heart and figured I was looking at a great opportunity that I'd better jump on. I think I got a great deal from a really nice seller, who's a very experienced beachcat sailor.
I realize this is a step up from what I've sailed before, but that's a big part of the excitement. My brother and I are no longer spring chickens, that's for sure, but we're still pretty athletic and pretty sure we're up for the challenge. Also, I have a friend who's a very experienced non-cat sailor and is ready to go too.
The boat's in really good shape, I think, but it's still not new, and I've got a few questions I'd like to post up.
But for now,
thanks for the help guys!
couple comments on the video
Great looking boat - defiantly fast
Skipper needs less mast rotation - would help depower and reducer heeling (looks like more downhaul would help too - but i can't tell if it's maxed or not)
centerboards keep sliding forward (retracting) - needs some system to prevent this
need to prep your crew when your gonna dump your main/travler while they are on the wire (that's why they got soaked) - lucky the boat didn't flip on the windward side (over the crews head)
lucky he didn't capsize in that gybe - need to travel out some in a gybe
according to this link
NADA for barnegat nj is $2,770 - $3,160
- it has been snowing in nj as recently as last week, and water temp is in the mid 40's - your telling him to GO SAILING is preamture
Edited by MN3 on Apr 16, 2018 - 08:05 AM.
Thanks for these tips. Couple of replies re the video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SlEbMYx3YI0 ):
When it gets warm enough to sail, I'll see if the centerboards are coming up by themselves (hopefully not) and go from there.
Mast rotation: I didn't realize mast rotation adjustment accomplished this - nice learning tip, thanks.
I thought the reason the main/boom slammed over so hard in the gybe was because of not sheeting in the main before gybing - didn't realize travel out is part of gybing.
Can you provide any more detail re recommended main sheet and traveler adjustments in prep for gybing in heavy winds like this?
they pivot into the hulls with the head moving forward and the bottom of the board moving aft
unless somehow controlled, they will move by themselves when the boat moves (perhaps the prindles are designed to stay in place by moving the pivot point off center. I say this because they looked to stay put most of the time with nothing holding them back, but on my cat it's balanced and the board will move for/aft with almost no pressure). the faster the boat, the more force pushing them into the hulls
on mystrere's the boat comes with 2 small deck eyes (image below) to run a bungee through (attaches to the front and back of the centerboard head). this holds the board in place (forward/retracted or aft/down for use). the issue is the bungee eventually fails and the deck eyes aren't so fun to sit on. Many (mysteres) i sail with use other methods, .like a little wedge they push in, or stuffing a line between the board/hull. I don't recommend this because IF you hit ground (or other) ... it can damage your boat - our boardwells are ridiculously thin
yes - this in combo with down-haul are your main ways to depower and reduce heeling
many cruising mono's (and others) do not have roatating masts - all (or most) racing boats do (to create a more optimal leading edge of the sail)
downwind in med/heavy air you want to be traveled out and sheeted hard. on my boat at least, you need to let some mainsheet out to allow the traveler car to slide across the track/beam. If snug it will add tention to the main as it gets to center - this will eat up my track/ travler car wheels
but yes, it will slam over unless you have some technique to manage it / slamming over is a lot better than gybing and it filling with air/power and capsizing
First time i tried to gybe my 5.5 in 20 knots with it traveled to center ... i capsized and flew threw my sail window... that was exciting
depending on windspeed (this tech will be tricky in very heavy air/survival mode)
downwind ... i sail with the traveler out (how much depends on how deep ddw i am sailing) and the mainsheet snug (or more in heavy air)
when gybing ... keep speed up - it is very important to be sailing close to the wind speed, this will make it less explosive when the gybe happens
when i gybe: in med or heavy air i will usually try to make sure the traveler is out at least 2/3rds out, pay out some mainsheet
and as i am passing my tiller from one hand to the other - i will often grab the mainsheet bundle (between the top and bottom blocks) and manually help it over (more like stopping it from slamming than actually pushing it over, it will go by itself as long as your not over sheeted) and as it passes over ... if my timing is right, i have slowed it down enough that i can let go and simply sheet it in.
This takes a little practice and is much easier in light air ... .this is a great time to perfect your technique
Actually, it goes against my grain to share financial info re a private transaction on a public forum. However, a forum member asked (see post #3 above) if I'd be willing to share my purchase price in order to help out another forum member who's trying to price his P18-2 for sale. I made the decision to go ahead and do so (and have no regrets) in an effort be a contributing member to the forum. I've gotten some help here and am hoping to get some more, so I figure I should try to give back if possible.
Don't worry, I have every intention of sailing the boat and hopefully sailing it for all it's worth. Right now I have on my calendar the Statue of Liberty race for 7/7 and the Shelter Island race for 7/14. Hoping to make both.
Edited by CatFan57 on Apr 16, 2018 - 02:41 PM.
for upwind sailing - the rotation arm should point at the side-stays for full power and to the rear beam for depowered sailing - adjusting the traveler will effect this so after traveling you should re-check this angle
downwind - should be as close to 90*s as possible (in line with the front beam)
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