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Hobie 21 rudders and rigging  Bottom

  • I just purchased a project hobie 21 se from Florida. Needs lots of parts, I am having a few issues finding the back traveler car and the rudders. Does anybody have any experience with the back traveler? it is missing and I can't seem to find the right replacement, And the rudders are missing as well, I have the castings and tiller arms just no rudders. It is to my understanding that they had unique rudders? is this true or would a normal rudder from something like a hobie 18 work? And it came with a nice spinnaker just with no pole. Could someone show me a few pictures of their set up or point me to the right part of this forum that would have that information.
    Thanks in advance to anyone that can help me,

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    Hobie 21 se,
    North Carolina,
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  • I built my own rudders a decade ago and they work great.I can walk you through it if you want. I also am ready to make four new rudders sometime soon. One set is already spoken for and the other set was going to be a spare set.

    Welcome to the 21 club. icon_wink

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    Bill 404 21SE
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  • Hobie Cat part # for traveler car is #31800001
    Harken part #2780 which is a 22mm High-load 1250 car retails for $365

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    Bill 404 21SE
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  • The rudder blades for the Hobie 21 were specific to the boat but have been out of production for many years. The “standard” rudder blades used on all the other Hobies will work (and are what is recommended as a replacement by Hobie) but are slightly smaller than the original H21 blades. I would definitely recommend using a fiberglass or carbon blade. The nylon/PCG/lexan blades will be way too flexible for the 21. I would not recommend making your own blades unless you have a very skilled hand. Getting the profile and cross-section correct would be critical to getting decent performance and not having the blades ventilate under load.

    The main traveler used a standard Harken ball bearing traveler car with integrated cam cleat.

    How old is the spinnaker? The H21 originally was fitted with a symmetrical spinnaker that ran on a bridle rigged between the bow tangs - no pole. The later boats incorporated a pole with the same spinnaker. And if you have a modern aftermarket assymetrical spinnaker then you definitely need a pole.

    sm
  • Thank you for the replies, and the part numbers, I will probably just by the normal expo rudders and use them, as long as it won’t hurt performance to much, and the spinnaker is a very new aftermarket from Florida that appears to need a pole, it also came with a cool set of matching Mylar sails with a cool USA color set, they seem to be old and I was wondering how to tell when they are bad, I see a few bubbles in the materials but they are still stiff, I’ve only had experience with Dacron, I
    Thanks,

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    Hobie 21 se,
    North Carolina,
    --
  • Quoteylar sails with a cool USA color set, they seem to be old and I was wondering how to tell when they are bad, I see a few bubbles in the materials but they are still stiff,

    mylar will degrade with time, use and exposure
    dacron will last "forever" but continually stretch and lose shape

    the (clear) outer layer will start to flake off and simply fail
    the inner layers will rip and shred



    Edited by MN3 on Apr 16, 2018 - 09:29 AM.
  • "Bubbles" in the material are a sign that the fabric is delaminating. The old Mylar sail cloth is made by bonding a layer of Mylar plastic to woven Dacron fabric. This gives the sail cloth strength and dimensional stability. Eventually the adhesive that is used to bond the two materials together breaks down and they separate. The bubbles are an indicator of the beginning of the end for the sail's life. If the delam is localized to a small area, you could have a sail maker cut out the bad and sew in a new panel, but it's kind of like dealing with delamination in a hull. Once it starts, there's not a whole lot you can do to stop it, so just sail it until it gets so bad that it's no longer safe and then throw it out.

    sm

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