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  • Hi Bill,
    Any ideas of diameter of torsion rope? Ronstan seem to use 8mm, is this what you are using? Thinking of 6mm as Liros have it available.



    Edited by revintage on Jan 28, 2018 - 03:43 PM.

    --
    Brgds
    Lars

    Frankencat 5.5/F18
    Soon Frankencat 5.8/F20
    49er
    --
  • revintage ,
    I am pretty sure I have the Ronstan Series 85 Furler Set - Drum & Top Swivel and it uses a 7mm anti-torsion cable. denk
    Also I an pretty sure I have this particular one....
    English Braids ATR has been specifically designed to resist twisting to operating in top down furling
    systems. Anti-torsion rope has a unique torsional stability that transmits the furling gear rotation
    direct to the head of the sail.( copied from their website)

    Since Randy Symth provided a "package deal" I am not 100% sure. I only provider the boat, spinnaker pole and the spinnaker halyard. The halyard I first tried was not a non stretch but a low stretch line which won't hold the per-bend of my 2 1/4" diameter by 13' 3" long aluminum spinnaker pole. Lucky the local West Marine had a non-stock line that work fine.Thank you Linda Wright for your insight. icon_wink

    Now my only issue to address, is find a better halyard cleat as over the course of the day, this non-stretch line slowly "slips" through my 29 year old original spinnaker cleat. Maybe I could replace the aluminum jaws of that cleat. They show zero wear. So, I may need a more current design mast mounted "knuckle cleat" or clutch style (Spinlock XAS Clutch, 1/4 - 1/2: Single)......Any suggestions?

    --
    Bill 404 21SE
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  • Quote Maybe I could replace the aluminum jaws of that cleat. They show zero wear.

    I love my spin locks (one for spin halyard, one for tack, one in mast track for reefing main) - never an issue - others here will say "it WILL fail" - (they are prob right)

    i also have ronstan knuckle bangers and standard harken cleat on my beam for the tack on my 5.5.
    it's easy to burn up pastic jaws/parts when hoisting or snuffing at warp speed - 10x worse if your still in the cleates while yankin

    PLUS standing vs your kneeling changes the sheeting angle drastically and can cause/prevent burnt out gear -

    I like to upgrade to better grade equip when possible and practical. even if that isn't the issue, you now have better gear on your ride, weighs nothing, and spares for other cleats .. pretty cheap fix (or fail)

    btw ronstan cleats can often be taken apart and reversed (to fresh grooves - harken's ... not so much)
    replacement parts (jaws) are avail for both (all) brands

    Clutches are more typical on a mono (or tri) to hold a halyard, but could work. the issue is it requires more movement that typical "cleating" and ... during an ugly pitch .... "you'll poke your eye out kid" (bulky hardware on your mast/beam could be painful in a pitch or peter-pan)



    Edited by MN3 on Jan 28, 2018 - 07:49 PM.
  • Sweet deal.... I've been playing with the top down furlers on the Pulse 600. Makes it great singlehanding in 20+ knots of wind. Maybe I need one on FrankenKitty...

    --
    Scott

    Prindle 18-2 Mod "FrankenKitty"
    Tornado Classic "Fast Furniture"
    Prindle 19 "Mr. Wiggly" - gone
    Nacra 5.8 "De ja vu"
    Nacra 5.0
    Nacra 5.8
    Tornadoes (Reg White)
    --
  • Hey Scott,

    We just met in my beam thread. I am opting for a top down furler for the 15sqm asymmetric i have bougth for my SH 5.5 Frankencat. All I miss is the antitorsion cable but have found a 6mm Liros that I will order. Do you have any close up images of the system on your Pulse?

    --
    Brgds
    Lars

    Frankencat 5.5/F18
    Soon Frankencat 5.8/F20
    49er
    --
  • Spinlocks are good for many things. They aren't so great for adjustments that don't need to be made frequently (halyards). For whatever reason, when they fail it seems its the springs that go, not the jaws themselves.

    For Spinnaker Halyards, harken headbangers work pretty well: https://www.murrays.com/product/28-2156/



    Edited by samc99us on Feb 08, 2018 - 06:41 PM.
  • My problem with my 28 year old headbanger is my new non stretch spinnaker halyard slow slides through the aluminium cleat while the underway just a little but enough to effect the top down furling rig I use now.

    So, maybe I should replace the aluminium jaws or install a extreme style clutch style setup. Like this one Spinlock XAS Clutch, 1/4 - 1/2: Single. For about the same price of a new headbanger.

    I will first replace the jaws with a new pair and see how it goes....and possibly also install the Spinlock too as my backup so I can quickly made a change if the problem persist. icon_wink I like to be prepared.....and I like having a back up too. icon_cool

    On a separate note....I may replace my original mast that has a comtip with a custom made mast from Super Cat that will be a all aluminium stick. This new project project may require a order of some 600lbs. minimum extrusion or about 7 mast total. And some custom made mast rotation balls to fit the mast post as Super cat uses a larger ball. I do not need a mast yet but who knows what the future brings and some of my 21SE buddies need a comtip or mast to get back on the water this season. Looking forward.......

    So if you own a 21SE and want to get a new mast, let me know.Again, I am looking forward.... icon_wink

    --
    Bill 404 21SE
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  • QuoteMy problem with my 28 year old headbanger is my new non stretch spinnaker halyard slow slides through the aluminium cleat while the underway just a little but enough to effect the top down furling rig I use now.


    HM line? (high modulus) like dynema, vectran, etc

    many of these lines are coated and are very slick until the coating wears off and the line breaks in a little

    unless your cleat teeth are worn down ... it's probably the line and not the cleat and should be fine after a few sails.. just re-tighten as needed until then (or use a jacketed line that has more bite)
  • MN3... just re-tighten as needed until then (or use a jacketed line that has more bite)

    Or splice in a chunk of over-jacket at the critical point in the halyard. Bury both ends up and down for smooth transition and a better bite. Heck, you might even be able to cross-braid some whipping twine in a foot of line if grip/slip is the only issue.

    Randii

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