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updating H 18 blocks  Bottom

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  • Input is appreciated in advance. I have just finished a complete resto on an 82 H 18. The main and jib blocks are stock Seaway units. They cleaned up OK. I installed the Murray's 5:1 Downhaul and my eyeballs oogled the newer style 7:1 main units with auto load sensing. Loosing the three single part blocks on the boom seems sensible.

    Is the conversion worth the 480 bucks? I am a new cat sailor. I have had the boat for 12 years with the intent on restoring it. It's done and came out beautiful. The jib and main sheeting blocks are bone stock. I figure that before my wife figures out what I really spent, I better finish what will make it reasonably modern and functionally optimal.


    Thank you!

    --
    82 Hobie 18 Alter Signature Model. (The Cisco Squid) Complete refit down to the rivets in 2012.
    81 H-16
    Rescue California
    --
  • when i had my h18, i purchased a tripple top to upgrade (replace) the 3 boom blocks, as they got tangled in transit often (when removed from the boom). - Loved the single block

    I then put my old set (upper and lower) on sale here on the beachcats...

    when they sold, i purchased the harken 57mm 7:1 rachomatic base - LOVE IT -

    I later sold that Hobie and got a Mystere 5.5 and kept the blocks but needed more than 7:1 so i upgraded the top to a quad top for 8:1 - LOVE IT

    still wanting more (as pulling in my tornado and f18 sails i use are a lot of work), i added a 40mm block inside the top unit and made it a 9:1 LOVE IT!

    Even thinking about turning them into 10:1 for my boat ... :)

    QuoteIs the conversion worth the 480 bucks?

    Probably not. They are nice.. and make it a little better/easier but $500 is a lot of money. I would suggest you sail for a year or 2.. and upgrade when you are more experinced and know for sure you want to make those type of upgrade$ and investments
  • Thank you MN. One more question to suffer. The data that I saw when ordering the pile of resto parts for the boat said to install a 48' x 1/2" line for the main sheet. I actually ordered the "stock" main sheet. It sure seems pretty lazy through the sheaves. Am I nuts to try some 7/16" for the main sheet? Something with a nice hard braid would seem to me to be the thing. This is the only sheet or line that I ordered that sure seems to be a bit heavy for what it is doing. The braid is also really soft. I think it may be too damn soft.

    --
    82 Hobie 18 Alter Signature Model. (The Cisco Squid) Complete refit down to the rivets in 2012.
    81 H-16
    Rescue California
    --
  • astglennThank you MN. One more question to suffer. The data that I saw when ordering the pile of resto parts for the boat said to install a 48' x 1/2" line for the main sheet. I actually ordered the "stock" main sheet. It sure seems pretty lazy through the sheaves. Am I nuts to try some 7/16" for the main sheet? Something with a nice hard braid would seem to me to be the thing. This is the only sheet or line that I ordered that sure seems to be a bit heavy for what it is doing. The braid is also really soft. I think it may be too damn soft.


    I've got 3/8" spun dacron for my sheet, and never have had to use gloves. That said, I am considering changing out to a 5/16" Salsa, or similar HMPE line. The dacron absorbs water, and gets heavy. HMPE floats.

    --
    Jeff
    Houston TX
    1986 Hobie 18 Sail# 13031
    --
  • astglennThank you MN. One more question to suffer. The data that I saw when ordering the pile of resto parts for the boat said to install a 48' x 1/2" line for the main sheet. I actually ordered the "stock" main sheet. It sure seems pretty lazy through the sheaves. Am I nuts to try some 7/16" for the main sheet? Something with a nice hard braid would seem to me to be the thing. This is the only sheet or line that I ordered that sure seems to be a bit heavy for what it is doing. The braid is also really soft. I think it may be too damn soft.

    Half inch was the original size for H18 mainsheet with those three single Seaway blocks, but that "stock" mainsheet may just be too fuzzy and it will probably absorb water as well.

    I switched to the 7:1 Harken Blocks years ago, besides the better purchase they are also easy to remove from the boom in one piece.

    In your case, rather than spend $480 on blocks, invest in high-quality main and jib sheets. If you went with a 3/8 or 7/16 (9 or 10mm) main sheet of any kind they would run through the blocks and traveler better. If you want to really treat yourself, go with the new high-tech sheets available now.

    http://www.apsltd.com/c-1…blendedsinglebraids.aspx

    The Robline, Salsa, and Swiftcord all seem to be excellent choices. I've been wanting to upgrade my old Yale Light sheets to one of these. Anyone have opinions to choose among them?

    --
    Damon Linkous
    1992 Hobie 18
    Memphis, TN

    How To Create Your Signature

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  • I bought two used harken tripple block setups for my boats both used and about $100 each. Great
    investment in my opinion. I think you will like that sheet line you bought when used in tripple blocks.
    Probably slow in the seaway setup.

    --
    Pete Knapp
    Schodack landing,NY
    Goodall Viper,AHPC Viper,Nacra I20
    --
  • This spring I upgraded my H18 blocks and went with Nautos http://www.nautos-usa.com/. I ended up purchasing a 57MM 6:1 triple ratchet setup that is easily convertable to 7:1. The blocks have a breaking strength of 2,000 pounds and come with a five-year warranty. I ordered them online at the link above and they shipped from Florida next day via Priority Mail. Total cost for both blocks: $130. (Note: I believe they've since gone up in price a bit, but still a fraction of the cost Harkens' equivalent)

    I've got about 20 days on them so far and they work just as well as any of the Harken setups I have used. Highly recommended.



    Edited by BrianCT on Aug 22, 2012 - 06:19 PM.
  • 3/8" is a good diameter for a mainsheet. I found the same thing as you with the 7/16". A good option from APS is to get a thinner high tech single braid spliced to a fatter line with good handfeel. So most of the line going through the blocks runs quickly and the line you hold onto has good grip. But then you are getting more complicated.

    I run 3/8"New England VPC line through my 8:1 blocks, but I have heard over and over that Salsa is the best out there. I also really like the feel of Samson Ultralite.

    --
    Dave Bonin
    1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
    1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
    Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
    --
  • You guys kill it! This is all extremely helpful and well appreciated. I am going to have a look at the bargain blocks that BrianCT referenced. I am going to purchase 48' of the good stuff in 3/8" I figure that in any case, it will be of immediate use and is what to have running through any block set up.

    I am not a small guy and have big hands. The bad part of that is I am not the speed weasel that my son / crew is. The good part is that I am in no immediate danger of being kidnapped!

    Thank's a million folks.

    --
    82 Hobie 18 Alter Signature Model. (The Cisco Squid) Complete refit down to the rivets in 2012.
    81 H-16
    Rescue California
    --
  • astglennYou guys kill it! This is all extremely helpful and well appreciated. I am going to have a look at the bargain blocks that BrianCT referenced. I am going to purchase 48' of the good stuff in 3/8" I figure that in any case, it will be of immediate use and is what to have running through any block set up.

    I am not a small guy and have big hands. The bad part of that is I am not the speed weasel that my son / crew is. The good part is that I am in no immediate danger of being kidnapped!

    Thank's a million folks.


    3/8 line runs fine through the blocks I referenced. It's what I use. I personally feel 48' is a bit long for the H18 with a standard 7:1 setup, but that's what Hobie calls for. Samson Trophy Braid is another, more affordable line option.



    Edited by BrianCT on Aug 22, 2012 - 07:21 PM.
  • I just pulled the trigger on the Nautos set up. very reasonable and looks to be nice gear. I agree that 48' seems like a bunch. I'll order up the good 3/8 line at that length and see what's what after I learn a thing or two. Thank you for the recco.

    --
    82 Hobie 18 Alter Signature Model. (The Cisco Squid) Complete refit down to the rivets in 2012.
    81 H-16
    Rescue California
    --
  • I just bought the 8:1 harken system for 360 shipped. 2632 & the 2631 i believe. Murrays wanted like 5 bills for it
  • Let us know what you think of them. Those Nautos blocks would be a good option for us cheap guys.

    Good to spend a little bucks on the mainsheet. You will be holding it for hours and they last forever. A few extra feet is always better than a few feet too little. You can often get a good deal on the expensive stuff on the sale rack at APS.

    --
    Dave Bonin
    1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
    1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
    Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
    --
  • I almost choked when I paid for the 50' of line. I bought 3/8" good stuff. It was as much as the blocks. Holy Jesus, Mary and Joseph. I would really hate to be the guy buying the lines on an AC 45. I guess once you get over a 200,000.00 jib, the 30K in lines don't matter much.

    I keep telling myself that cheap and economical are mutually exclusive issues.

    --
    82 Hobie 18 Alter Signature Model. (The Cisco Squid) Complete refit down to the rivets in 2012.
    81 H-16
    Rescue California
    --
  • passingwindI just bought the 8:1 harken system for 360 shipped. 2632 & the 2631 i believe. Murrays wanted like 5 bills for it


    Good job on the shopping for that deal. That has to be a nice system with the auto load sensing ratchets.

    --
    82 Hobie 18 Alter Signature Model. (The Cisco Squid) Complete refit down to the rivets in 2012.
    81 H-16
    Rescue California
    --
  • Holy! What did you buy? I just got 50ft of ultralight for $60 and 40 ft of Yale Phd for$50 from the APS sale rack. Outfitting my new 5.7.

    --
    Dave Bonin
    1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
    1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
    Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
    --
  • 9mm swiftcord for the main and 8mm for the jib. I have always lusted for nice line. I was caught in the moment!

    --
    82 Hobie 18 Alter Signature Model. (The Cisco Squid) Complete refit down to the rivets in 2012.
    81 H-16
    Rescue California
    --
  • DamonLinkousThe Robline, Salsa, and Swiftcord all seem to be excellent choices. I've been wanting to upgrade my old Yale Light sheets to one of these. Anyone have opinions to choose among them?


    I bought some 8 and 9 mm FSE Robline Racing sheet to replace my Jib and Main sheets, respectively, last year. My only comment is that when the Jib is sheeted in hard the line is pulled so tight that it's super difficult to uncleat. I have been thinking about flipping the cleat over on the jib block to see if it makes it easier to pull up vs down to get it uncleated.

    FWIW,
    Jimmy

    --
    -------------------------------------------
    1983 Nacra 5.0 Sail #10
    Dallas, Texas area
    -------------------------------------------
    --
  • flyingfishguy
    DamonLinkousThe Robline, Salsa, and Swiftcord all seem to be excellent choices. I've been wanting to upgrade my old Yale Light sheets to one of these. Anyone have opinions to choose among them?


    I bought some 8 and 9 mm FSE Robline Racing sheet to replace my Jib and Main sheets, respectively, last year. My only comment is that when the Jib is sheeted in hard the line is pulled so tight that it's super difficult to uncleat. I have been thinking about flipping the cleat over on the jib block to see if it makes it easier to pull up vs down to get it uncleated.


    FWIW,
    Jimmy


    I had the same issue with the stock lines through the Seaways jib blocks. I have rotated the orientation of the jam cleat / guide shoe of each jib block, upward about 30 degrees. There are still further adjustment holes that would place the angle at > 45 degrees. I am hoping that this will give me enough angle to get some more down force on the sheet. The issue I saw was that the downward movement was pretty much diluted to zero over the 6 feet or so between me and the block and I had to crawl closer to the block to get enough down whip to get out of the jaws. I don't know if my change will have ill effects elsewhere. I wouldn't think so.



    Edited by astglenn on Aug 23, 2012 - 04:37 AM.

    --
    82 Hobie 18 Alter Signature Model. (The Cisco Squid) Complete refit down to the rivets in 2012.
    81 H-16
    Rescue California
    --
  • astglennI just pulled the trigger on the Nautos set up. very reasonable and looks to be nice gear. I agree that 48' seems like a bunch. I'll order up the good 3/8 line at that length and see what's what after I learn a thing or two. Thank you for the recco.


    Congrats, I expect you will be pleased with the purchase like I am. They're good solid blocks. Mine came with new shackles as well. Good luck.

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