• eddiecat
  
  

  • Rank: Lubber
  • Registered: Apr 14, 2009
  • Last visit: Jun 12, 2020
  • Posts: 62

  Posted: Sep 02, 2009 - 11:18 AM

  
  
  A H16 or a P16 are simple, can be rigged in less than 45min, and taken down just as quick, very easily managed solo, and can be found for less than $1500. Like Andrew said there is no reason not to expect you to get your money back out of it.
  
  I agree-I just bought my first cat, a used Hobie 16 after discussion with Beachcats and it's easy to set up, from driving to the lake and stepping mast, easy to sail and you can fly a hull in 10 mph. getting into trapping out now and 2 can hike out. My plan is to get more adept at sailing my H-16 and then purchase an 18 (either Prindle or Hobie) for a bigger lake with dockage so no daggerboard issues, and more crew. Plus, the jib makes it easier to tack.
  
  --
  eddiecat
  
  Nacra 5.0 (destroyed in storm)
  Hobie 16 (restored)
  Nacra 5.5- amalgam "Franken Cat"
  --

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• BboatB
  
  

  • Rank: Lubber
  • Registered: Sep 01, 2009
  • Last visit: Sep 02, 2009
  • Posts: 5

  Posted: Sep 02, 2009 - 11:28 AM

  rpiper138

  I have a 5.5, so I am a little biased. Before I bought the 5.5, I looked at the 6.0. Way too much boat for single handing or 2up with a smallish crew.
  
  My 5.5 is a 2001 uni with a carbon mast. I am 185 lbs and have no problem moving the boat around the beach or righting it by myself.
  
  Rigging takes about 45 minutes, but I remove everything but the tramp for transport. About 95% of the rigging is done solo, but I do need a helper to pull on the trap handle to get the bridles attached properly. The need for the second person could be replaced with a set of shroud de-tensioners.
  
  I lift the mast into position with the shrouds attached and set to the desired rake for the conditions. I don't think that you can just muscle the aluminum spar up by yourself (unless you are much stronger than me(not hard)). The carbon spar is only about 35 lbs, but is expensive to replace if you break it. Make sure that you get mast insurance if you buy a boat with a carbon fiber mast.
  
  When sailing.......
  
  Large volume hulls mean crew weight is not an issue, but breaking through surf can be.
  
  This boat is a handful when sailing solo in wind above 15 knots. That being said, it is fast. I use a wrist mounted gps for heading and speed and the highest that I have seen it read is 22.1 knots. It may have read higher, but I more important things to do than look at my wrist at that point.
  
  The carbon spar makes the boat a little faster than the aluminum masted couterparts and makes righting very easy.
  
  The uni rig will also out point most sloop rigged boats.
  
  Later boats had some advantages over early boats, the least of which is weight. Early boats weighted around 375 lbs (rigged) and had a plug type transom. The plug transom had some problems and was replaced. This may be the reason that newer boats weigh in around 340 lbs. The newer boats also have bridle wire plates attached to the inside of the hulls instead of the outside. This is important if you choose to run a spinnaker as the bridle foil is too short for the older boats and puts additional pressure on the hulls.
  
  There are several variants of the 5.5. As a less experienced person who only weighs in the 180 range, I would stick to the 5.5 uni (172 square feet of main) or sl. The Max is similar to the uni, but carries more sail. The 18sq is a 5.5 with an 11 foot beam and 20 more square feet of sail. The extra beam and sail bring extra challenges.
  
  Sorry for the long post, but it may help you to avoid some problems if you do decide to go with the 5.5.
  
  

  
  Nothing is to long;),thx!
  

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• MN3
  
  

  • Rank: Master Chief
  • Registered: Jun 20, 2006
  • Last visit: Apr 06, 2024
  • Posts: 7088

  Posted: Sep 02, 2009 - 12:58 PM

  you can search here and on catsailor.com for info on different cats. this discussion comes up every few weeks.
  
  I PERSONALLY would go for the 5.5 over the 18. I sail solo most of the time, its slightly more modern... gets through waves better (I THINK) and has a 4 way jib adjuster (sloop version).
  
  BUT i want more controls (which leads to a spaghetti bowl full of sheets/lines all over your tramp).
  
  the h18 will be a little (very little) easier to rig and get used to since it has slightly less controls to master (no 4 way jib adjuster, bridal foils, barberhauler)
  
  After 1 hour of rigging my Mystere... i occasionally long for the "good old days" of my hobie's

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• Wolfman
  
  

  • Rank: Chief
  • Registered: Jun 24, 2009
  • Last visit: Jun 15, 2023
  • Posts: 1555

  Posted: Sep 02, 2009 - 04:01 PM

  I agree with Andrew.
  
  The 5.5 is a better choice, a more modern design than the H18. A little bit more to learn with regards to rigging but overall easier to sail, less chance of pitchpoling and more foregiving to mistakes.
  
  You also don't have to rig it with everything in place all the time (i.e. you can rig the 4 way jib as a 2 way and simplify the downhauls) if that is a concern. Heck I rig my 5.2 as a uni when sailing solo all the time.
  
  
  
  
  
  --
  Dave Bonin
  1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
  1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
  Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
  --

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• MN3
  
  

  • Rank: Master Chief
  • Registered: Jun 20, 2006
  • Last visit: Apr 06, 2024
  • Posts: 7088

  Posted: Sep 02, 2009 - 04:05 PM

  Quote

  (i.e. you can rig the 4 way jib as a 2 way and simplify the downhauls)

  
  i think you mean outhauls :)

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• rpiper138
  
  

  • Rank: Mate
  • Registered: Jul 17, 2006
  • Last visit: Apr 13, 2010
  • Posts: 194

  Posted: Sep 02, 2009 - 04:32 PM

  The 5.5 uni is pretty clean to sail and doesn't have the jib blocks to hit when you slide across the tramp. From what I understand, the 5.5 sl is not competitive against true uni boats when it is sailed as a uni.
  
  most of the time the only controls that you are dealing with are:
  - downhaul (main)
  - outhaul (main)
  - mast rotator
  - mainsheet
  - traveler
  - oh yeah...tiller
  
  I don't tend to screw around with the boards, but everything else requires some kind of attention once the wind gets up.
  
  I tend to use the righting line quite a bit too.
  
  Personally, I would go unirig with spin before rigging a jib.
  

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