Great Site...glad I found it!
I'm on the verge of buying a cat again and would like your valued opinions. I would love to find a good, used Nacra 5.7, but as we know... not easy to find.
I'm considering a Prindle 18, but have never sailed one. I have owned a Hobie 16 and a Hobie 18, years ago. I much preferred the 18, as it was faster, and more to my liking.
Can anyone offer a comparison to a Hobie 18 or possibly suggest another (used) Cat for consideration? Is it as fast as a H18 on a screaming reach? Any input you can offer will be greatly appreciated.
100% of my sailing will be done from the beach, so dagger boards are questionable. As we all know, they can be a pain if they get stuck.... while you're flying into shore, helped by a sizeable wave. I've been there....almost lost it a few times, and understand the pros and cons. I'm also a big guy, 6'1" and 240lbs and never sail alone, always with a friend.
Is a Prindle 18 a robust boat suited to beach sailing? What are the problem areas, if any to examine closely? It seems Hobie parts would be easier to find. Would finding parts for a Prindle 18 be a real problem?
I'm excited to get back into the sport. I always loved Cat sailing and after this past weekend, borrowing a friends Hobie 16, and the kids loving it, I'm sold again!
I appreciate any suggestion and look forward to hearing from you.
Thanks!
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gtny
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Prindle 18 vs Hobie 18 comparison for an old/new beach sailor
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- Rank: Lubber
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Posted: Sep 09, 2008 - 08:51 PM
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Posted: Sep 09, 2008 - 11:07 PM
A Prindle 18 is a good beachcat and is fast, but a little more difficult to find a good used one. The parts will also be a problem to find, one thing that is great with the Hobies. It is a solid, strong boat, but again lacks company support, fleets, and an abundance of parts. Another boat I might suggest (even though it has daggers) is the Nacra 5.2, sweet boat and sexy lookin. But, if you are goin to beach your cat all the time, go for a Hobie 16 or Hobie 18 because they are built like tanks. However, you can invest in beach wheels and that will expand your choices. Another possibility would be the Getaway, but they are very rare to find used.
yellowhulls
"Embrace the dark side" -
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Posted: Sep 10, 2008 - 08:59 AM
i think there are many other boats that are good. the G-cat (5.7) is a great boat without dagger boards, the only problem with them is they are a little bit pitchy in high winds... but if you dont drive them to hard in high winds you are good.
I LOVE my Mystere 5.5 but there is no company support or parts (at all)
The Nacra F18 are beautiful, and the hobie Tigers are too. -
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Posted: Sep 10, 2008 - 09:40 AM
I really apreciate your help and advice. Will def let you know what I decide.
Thanks!
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Posted: Sep 10, 2008 - 10:08 AM
I own a G-Cat 5.7. It is solid, has two tramps, rides smooth because the hulls are deep v. It may not beat a nacra... but it will most likely not pitchpole either. Parts for the G-Cat are scarce, the man that builds them is Hans Gessiler of Morning Star Ministries in Dade City, Fl. Hans has moved on to bigger craft... but still has a 5.7 for sale I think.
http://www.g-catmultihulls.com/index2.html
Hans sold just about all cat designs and found something about each he did not like. So he designed the 5.7 without those things. When it has both hulls in the water it is a displacement hull... with one hull flying it becomes a planing hull.
He used to have a hydroplane tri for sale.
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Posted: Sep 10, 2008 - 11:03 AM
I dont agree with the statement it will not pitchpole. i have seem more G-Cats pitchpole than any other cat. But i admit i have never sailed one.
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Posted: Sep 12, 2008 - 02:09 PM
As someone who just purchased a Prindle 18 I do not agree with any parts availability problems. I have had no problems getting anything I needed for it used or NEW. I am not an experienced sailor But I think is is a great cat pretty easy to rig and sail. I have sailed it with as much as 700lbs of Crew on board with no problems. I also like the no dagger boards but being new to this I like less complicated.
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Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook.
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Posted: Sep 12, 2008 - 02:51 PM
Hi Quarath,
Thanks for your input....all is very much appreciated. I'm happy to learn as much as I can along the way.
I'm looking at two now, both on Ebay.
If you don't mind.....what did you pay for yours and how old is it? What part of the country are you in?
Thanks!
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Posted: Sep 15, 2008 - 02:08 PM
I am in Utah, I paid $800 for mine talked down from $1000. It is a 1982 and the hulls are in good shape. The Sails are in decent shape with a little wear on the batten pockets. I was missing 2 battens. It had all Harkin Blocks for the Main a Jib which would have cost $800 by themselves if I had to buy em new. Had good standing rigging The boat had no tramp. I have put at least another $800 or so into it with new tires/lights for the trailer, Tramp, and misc lines and quick release shackles and such. Also new Trap lines. No soft spots but the Hulls may need a bottom job in the next year or 2.
Pete Begle in Big Bear Lake is a good resource for used Parts Prindle or otherwise. his number is 909-800-5237
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Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook.
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Posted: Sep 15, 2008 - 03:18 PM
Again, just make sure to set a price limit, including known parts you will have to replace. It can get expensive really fast. The Prindle was a well-built boat though, but ones in good shape can catch quite a bit of money. Its worth buying the expensive boat with everything and in good shape versus one that is missing parts and was abused but a $1000 cheaper.
Prindle 18 is a good choice, hope you get lots of years out of the one you buy.
yellowhulls -
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Posted: Sep 15, 2008 - 04:24 PM
Hi All,
Many thanks for all your emails!
As they say....the best laid plans of mice and men often go astray....or something close to that.
The Ebay seller ended the auction EARLY, so I'm still on the hunt for a boat. Still most interested in a Hobie 18, Prindle 18, or a Nacra 5.7.
Thanks!
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Posted: Sep 23, 2008 - 05:31 PM
I now have a choice of a P18 (local sale) or a 5.7 G-Cat (on Ebay currently).
What are the differences with ea? Which is faster, better suited to the ocean, more robust, etc...?What are the inherent differences in ea?
Again, any input is greatly appreciated.
Thanks! -
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Posted: Sep 23, 2008 - 06:55 PM
This will be an interesting choice. The hulls of both boats are similar in design, but I don't know exactly about the rigs and sail sizes. I would think the P-18 has more sail area than the G-Cat. Obviously there arent going to be too many differences between cats about the same size, and they were built to serve similar functions of being strong fast boats that could handle weight well. More importantly, the price and condition of the P-18 should be taken into consideration, as well as the fact that Prindle parts are still widely available.
I will say that the G-Cat looks in good shape, and if it is as advertised, will last you a long time. -
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Posted: Sep 27, 2008 - 06:11 PM
Just wanted to let everyone know I finally bought a Prindle 18....in outstanding shape, I might add.
Original sails...crisp and clean. Hulls are spotless.
If anyone has a P18 and can offer any sort of pointers, I'd really appreciate it.
I do have one question. Boat came with a trailer, also in great shape. I do not want to store it on the trailer come winter.
What is the best method for storage and has anyone made those individual "hull dollies"?
Thanks,
FT -
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Posted: Oct 17, 2008 - 11:21 AM
Here's a pic of my Prindle 18.2 in its winter storage lot:
1. I got rid of the rollers on the trailer which can create soft-spots in the bottom of the hulls. The carpeted cradles I made are 1-foot sections cut from the same piece of 1/2" thick sewer pvc pipe I used to make the storage tube.
2. DO NOT COVER THE BOAT WITH A POLY-TARP! Only do so if you're willing to make a pvc tarp frame to keep the tarp from touching the hulls. Otherwise, the tarp will rub on the hulls, stain them and/or damage them.
3. Strip the boat completely. Weather won't do much to aluminum and fiberglass. But rigging, tramp and cleats will all deteriorate in sun and cold. Strip everything off the boat and store in Ziploc bags.
4. Back the trailer wheels over Hefty lawn and leaf bags and close them up. The sun will kill the life of your tires if they sit for an extended period of time.
5. MAKE SURE THE PORT COVERS AND DRAIN PLUGS ARE CLOASED! Some people will say that without airflow, condensation will form in the hulls. So what? A pint of water can easily be poured out come Spring. But if you leave the drain plugs off (as I did once) you create the perfect little hibernation home for little critters. Nothing like find your boat filled with hundreds of mice come Spring!!! Had to put a garden hose in the deck ports and threaten to drown the little bastards out to get them out.
6. Dirt and/or mold are easily removed come Spring - don't sweat it.
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Posted: Oct 17, 2008 - 01:10 PM
There are pictures on this web site of another who stored his boat on trailer rollers and they pushed through his hulls due to the weight of the snow. I would love to see close up pictures of the home made cradles posted by Doug-p182...not sure how they are attached to the trailer and it looks like his cradles are elevated above the frame (extra room for the crossbars/striker to fit over the sail tube?).
Always something new to learn on this site!
J. Mueller
Prindle 16 -
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Posted: Oct 17, 2008 - 01:32 PM
Here's a close-up shot. I basically I took the same galvanized-steel frame ount for the rollers and removed the roller-mount. These are attached to the trailer frame with standard u-bolts and I didn't even have to remove them. I used some thick galvanized-steel c-channel length (www.onlinemetals.com can be your friend) cut to (I believe) 6" length and bolted them to the mounts. They fit perfectly around the mounts and I simply drilled through and used short, galvanized, 1/4" bolts, nuts and lock washers. At the top, I bolted wide, galvanized, L-brackets which are screwed into the bottom of each hull cradle. You can see the setup in the bottom pic.
People have suggested that this setup is not sufficient and I should weld a 45-degree angle piece of steel from the c-channel vertical posts to another frame bracket and u-bolt it on. I could, but to be honest, the current setup seems pretty strong. I just towed the boat 600 miles with no problems. I've had the boat off the trailer and I can stand in one of the cradles. It'll support me and I weigh 220.
Since then, I've upgraded the back pvc posts and moved my lighting system to the top. Even though the'yr LED lights and they can handle submersion better than incandescents, having them out of the water should help extend their life. For wiring I used the best stuff available - a 3-pole outdoor extension cord! Three wires including ground already built into this nice, easy to handle, weather-proof sheath!
I'm the king of pvc!!!
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Posted: Oct 20, 2008 - 03:21 PM
I like the mast cradle too...you are the king of PVC!!!
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Posted: Oct 20, 2008 - 06:54 PM
How do you get picts in here????? I have some in my pict. folder !!!
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~ Vietnam Vet 69-71~ 17 Hobie w/big jib, ~18 Hobie mag,~DN Ice sailor,
and other toys.......
~~ I live in NY state on the north shore of Oneida lake in
Bernhards Bay. ~~~~~~
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Posted: Oct 21, 2008 - 04:13 PM
cool idea. i was needing some cradles not for the trailor but for the beach. They are a little rocky here.
