Alright, so the bolt head pulled through the tiller crossbar tube the last time I installed it to the tiller arm on my Prindle 19mx. Hey, its old and it was a simple and crappy plan from the start. What cool updated method of attaching the arms to the crossbars have you seen? I'm thinking to order an aluminum tube and machine a simple clevis for each end with machined flats for the bolt head on one side and flat surface on the other to mate with the existing nylon half round spacer. The engineer in me thinks I could go super light and make a clevis that would act in double shear on the tiller arm.
Anybody have any pics of improved but somewhat simple linkage?
Edited by eb916 on Aug 03, 2016 - 11:43 AM.
Tiller crossbar modification
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Posted: Aug 02, 2016 - 11:05 PM
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Posted: Aug 03, 2016 - 12:44 AM
first, we should know what make and model your boat is? they differ greatly.
j
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Posted: Oct 10, 2016 - 10:59 PM
According to the manual they dont differ greatly.Ther is a large hole in the tiller arm that the 1/4-20 bolt head drops down thru.
Then goes thru a1/4-20 clearance hole on the other side of the tiller and thru a nylon spacer , then bolts to the rudder arm with a lock nut.The design sucks.Since my tiller holes are still not pulled thru I will design a plug that filts in the tube and use a stainless still pin that fits all the way thru and uses a clip or dammit clip to retain -
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Posted: Oct 11, 2016 - 01:28 PM
Replace the stock pieces, incorporate two of these 80 cent spacers and a longer bolt at each end:
http://www.murrays.com/01-0061.html
Add a nylock nut to keep the spring in play, both also available from Murrays, and the spacers will keep the bolt in alignment- so no pull through.
No slop.
This kit has most of what you need, but add two more spacers to keep the crossbar from rolling around. The included bolt may not be long enough, but two spacers are worth the effort/cost.
http://www.murrays.com/01-5141.html
This setup has lasted three decades on my 18-2.
The bolt head should not have the opportunity to twist through the tubing.
Don't trailer your Prindle with the rudders attached.
Edited by klozhald on Oct 11, 2016 - 01:41 PM.
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Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
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Posted: Oct 11, 2016 - 04:59 PM
Thx Bob.. The kit was already on the Prindle that I bought but one spring was missing and they were not utilizing the extra spacers.. I'm using the same concept with the springs but adding my own 3D printed crossbar bushing instead of the extra Murray's spacers and swapping the bolts for stainless quick pins. Might have to go back to the 1/4-20 bolts with nyloc's but I take it apart every trip & don't want to wrench.
Printing the crossbar bushings with a industrial resin.. I'll keep you posted
Edited by carl2 on Oct 11, 2016 - 05:16 PM. -
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Posted: Oct 14, 2016 - 02:39 PM
here is the printed bushings..more on the fit into the cross bar later
was going to use 6mm clevis pins but went back to the 1/4-20 hex bolt with the springs for tension (found the missing spring inside the tiller arm
Edited by carl2 on Oct 14, 2016 - 02:47 PM. -
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Posted: Oct 14, 2016 - 04:12 PM
Looks like you have have some cool toys at your disposal! What material does your 3D printer use? Wondering about UV degradation.
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Posted: Oct 15, 2016 - 03:09 PM
Oh the surprises that previous owners leave for us...
Your printed bushings are impressive.
I'm wondering about UV also.
Is there a Delrin source material available?
I have some other shapes in mind.
Edited by klozhald on Oct 15, 2016 - 03:18 PM.
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Sheet In!
Bob
_/)_____/)_/)____/)____/)_____/)/)__________/)__
Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
(Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
Arizona, USA
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Posted: Oct 17, 2016 - 10:36 AM
"Looks like you have have some cool toys at your disposal!"..Im in automotive design,whenever there is room in the tank I get to add stuff.
Im sure that there is UV degradation..the density is 1.19 g/cm cubed, very similar to nylon glass filled (pa66 density 1.18).
mine will sit in the catbox till used and I'll replace them after a while anyway..could always paint them I suppose.
here is a company using Delrin
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/3646-3d-printing-in-acetal
Here is the resin that our prototype group is utilizing
https://www.3dsystems.com/materials/accurar-xtreme
https://www.3dsystems.com/sites/www.3dsystems.com/files/DS_Accura_Xtreme_US.pdf
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