The Tornado's side stays are giving up (a strand broke) and need to be replaced. What is a good place to get a new set made? I am in CT.
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John
Nacra 5.0
CT
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Best Vendor for new side stays
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Posted: Jun 20, 2016 - 10:55 AM
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Posted: Jun 20, 2016 - 11:52 AM
if you don't mind throwing the old one in the mail, I can give you a few recommendations here in florida
PM if you want more info -
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Posted: Jun 20, 2016 - 02:20 PM
Salty Dog Marine
https://www.saltydogmarine.com/
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Bob
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Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
(Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
Arizona, USA
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Posted: Jun 20, 2016 - 03:18 PM
Beware of cheap Asian SS wires -
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Posted: Jun 20, 2016 - 03:53 PM
Hey John....
A quick Google search turned up Hatchway's Sail and Rigging Shop... I am sure if you bring them the ones you have the could make you a new set...
https://www.hathaways.com/
Also, try Murray's Marine.. I am sure that Joel has made these in the past.
And, as Hullflyer noted watch for the import crap...
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John Schwartz
Ventura, CA
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Posted: Jun 20, 2016 - 04:18 PM
As a larger trimaran owner (F25C) we see that on larger multis everyone has gone to synthetic (Dyneema). Is there a reason we don't move to synthetic for our beach cats?
James
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Posted: Jun 20, 2016 - 09:49 PM
Yes.
Dyneema and other synthetics have very low abrasion tolerance.
The mast on a Beachcat rotates a lot, sometimes more than 100 degrees, and this twists the standing rigging against the mast below the hound.
Coated stainless steel doesn't care, but tensioned synthetic fibers will wear out much quicker than you want them to.
Search the forums here for the discussions on this.
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Bob
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Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
(Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
Arizona, USA
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Posted: Jun 20, 2016 - 09:57 PM
Mostly economics and potential for vandalism. A good set of coated dyneema stays would run more than most of our boats cost (not that that would deter me) and likely wouldn't last nearly as long. PBO is out of the question. Also my boat sits on my beach unattended most of the time. Nothing like some kid with a pocket knife dropping your mast.
If you sail in salt I suggest getting a local rigging shop with bare wire. If you are only fresh water then the coated lines produced by murray's or Salty dog should be mostly fine. The reason is that the coated wires, although nice can hide corrosion. This isn't normally a big issue in fresh water (unless you have some pretty ugly conditions) but salt water can corrode stain-less pretty dramatically and a failure is a bad situation. Normally the corrosion presents at the fittings but every once in a while...
Anyway my 2 cents. Its good to support your local rigger if you can but I've mostly ordered my rigging from Murray's or APS. I couldn't wait for my local guy to get to my order in a month and he doesn't roller swage fittings.
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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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Posted: Jun 21, 2016 - 01:59 AM
Thanks to all. I remember the days when nearly all hardware was domestically produced and wasn't made from slag.
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John
Nacra 5.0
CT
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Posted: Jun 21, 2016 - 07:06 PM
I've been running synthetic shrouds on my A-Cat for over 5 years, and synthetic traps on my other cats. I change them out every 2-3 years, not because they need it, but because it's cheap insurance. The modern coated dyneema materials are very resistant to UV. Just inspect your rig before you go sailing, and chafe shouldn't be a problem.
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Posted: Jun 22, 2016 - 09:02 AM
Mike, no creep issues?
no need to ever re-tension them? if so, how do you do it? -
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Posted: Jun 22, 2016 - 03:19 PM
I have the "punisher". An I-beam with a 20 ton hydraulic ram and digital load cell.
I build them slightly under spec length, pull them to 50% of breaking load and let it sit under tension for 1/2 hour. This removes the "constructional" stretch, and any looseness created by the splices.
Once this has been done, you are good to go.
However, if you remove them and store them unloaded for any length of time, they will relax/shrink slightly.
To avoid that, I step the mast, tighten the rig, let it sit for 10 mins, tighten the lashings a second time, and you are good to go.
I've measured the rig tension, done a regatta, and measured it again after the regatta, and the tension is the same.
I've used this process when building standing rigging for A-Cats, Weta's, R-33's, and a couple of Corsairs.
My preferred material was Marlow D12 Max SK78, however I just purchased a spool of D12 Max SK99 to try out. It's the same diameter as the SK78 but 20% stronger.
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Posted: Jun 22, 2016 - 03:58 PM
Thanks for the info
do you think you could do this without the punisher?
what type of lashings do you do?
any pics? -
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Posted: Jun 22, 2016 - 05:35 PM
It would not be as repeatable without the punisher. I pull it to a set % of strength for set amount of time. I've heard of people using cars, come-along, etc. I have winches also set up on my rigging bench, but even the winch doesn't do the job of the ram/load cell combo
Lashings on the A's are from a thimble on the shroud to a shackle on the boat, passed through 4 times.
Casings on the bigger boats use Colligo or Precourt lashing blocks - http://www.colligomarine.com -
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Posted: Jun 23, 2016 - 01:08 AM
Ok I'm sold, who do I go to for a set of trap lines for my 5.7 to test it out?
And yes I'm a sucker for anything high tech.
Edited by Wolfman on Jun 23, 2016 - 01:13 AM.
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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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Posted: Jun 23, 2016 - 08:37 AM
John:
From the 'looks' of your fleet, just replace the stays/shrouds with SS. Less hassle, long lasting, fewer worries and WTF... you are not competitively racing in A Class. -
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Posted: Jun 23, 2016 - 08:53 AM
Ahhh so you can always re-tighten your lashings IF there is any issue.
now I understand how it can be done on a beachcat.
PS yes I saw those lashings on Colligo and it made sense to me how a big mono could use them
Thanks for the info -
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Posted: Jun 23, 2016 - 04:40 PM
Wolfman,
PM Mike Krantz in this thread, he has a nice product. Many in our area use him.
On new stays for a Tornado, go SS. If its gotten to the point of broken strands, soft rigging isn't for you.
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Greenville SC
Offering sails and other go fast parts for A-class catamarans
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Posted: Jun 23, 2016 - 06:47 PM
just curious, why do you say that? -
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Posted: Jun 23, 2016 - 08:50 PM
For trap lines there is no need to go to a heat set line like you do for shrouds. A marginal amount of stretch simply isn't going to matter. I have been using 7/64" amsteel for traps I made myself, but I had Mike make the shrouds for my A-Cat. I don't have the receipt in front of me, but they were about $100 for the set.
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