People who add purchase to there jib, how are they doing it?
I have purchase with my setup but I don't trust it and it must have a tiny pulley to feed through the zipper in the jib.
I have a nacra 5.2 with a roller furler setup thru a zipper in the jib. The Halyard consist of wire attached to a pulley and a very small line(rope) runs thru the hole of the pulley then connects to the hoisting line. Kinda hard to explain, Issue is I want to replace the line because I don't trust it. too small. its probably around 2mm or less. BUT anything larger won't loop thru the center hole to the pulley, which is used to Purchase the jib after rounding the pulley on the minicleat with pulley at the bottom. Man, I need a picture.
I was going to buy 1/16 spiderline but it has a strength of only 340 lbs tensile strength and I'm thinking that's not enough.
thanks and sorry for no pictures. I don't know where to host them
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1988 Nacra 5.2
YouTube link to see boat in action:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLddinE6IorSrPpZrlvcwAjRzSIQsKYPG1
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Roller Furler Halyard size issue.
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Posted: May 14, 2016 - 10:22 PM
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Posted: May 14, 2016 - 11:57 PM
Unless you forget to sheet in the main before tensioning the jib luff tension, the luff line wont ever see much load. I run a Harken 16mm pulley on one of my boats and the stock pulley on the other. If you don't have a becket or thimble / anything on the pulley frame to tie the line to then just loop it around the jib halyard above the pulley and tie it to itself so it cant slip down.
The 3mm Robline I've been using has a 330lb breaking strength and I've never had a problem even when I run it loose and it takes some forestay load. -
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Posted: May 16, 2016 - 11:03 AM
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Posted: Jun 01, 2016 - 05:28 PM
wow man, that's some tuff stuff for size. How does this perform on cleats? Dyneema claims to be potentially slippery. Should I worry about this?
thanks for the replies.
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1988 Nacra 5.2
YouTube link to see boat in action:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLddinE6IorSrPpZrlvcwAjRzSIQsKYPG1
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Posted: Jun 01, 2016 - 09:39 PM
Pure dyneema or vectran isn't great in cleats. But there are plenty of small diameter blends any 4or 5 mm will work. Honestly you don't really need much purchase in you halyard. I run 1:1 on mine without an issue. I use a sister clip that put on the line with hog rings to make the smallest 'knot' possible and electrical shrink tube to cover the clips. After I hoist the hub I remove most of the halyard using the sister clip and just have a 1 ft hank on a clip to cleat to the roller furler. Works a treat.
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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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Posted: Jun 01, 2016 - 09:46 PM
Here's sort of a picture of what I'm trying to describe.
http://www.thebeachcats.c…pictures?g2_itemId=74384
http://www.thebeachcats.c…pictures?g2_itemId=74387
Edited by Wolfman on Jun 01, 2016 - 09:48 PM.
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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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Posted: Jun 02, 2016 - 08:49 AM
Depends on the line and the cleat
As Dave mentioned above, dyneema and vectran can be pretty slick. Esp the coating on dyneema. This coating wears away pretty quickly (as does any color on the dyneema )
If your talking about a horn cleat... there should be no problem
if your talking about a small cam cleat ... there could be slippage
I personally have a 3mm amsteel (dyneema) line that I tie my main halyard to my Portuguese turnbuckle. I use a rolling hitch and add an extra hitch after the not for extra security
If I was using dyneema in a cam cleat (like my furling line or spin halyard) I use Dingy Control Line. It is dyneema with a jacket on. OR racing Sheet (dyneema blend) -
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Posted: Jun 02, 2016 - 01:15 PM
As others have said, sheet in the main, then rig your jib. You have the same setup as mine, and I use small line with no problems. Looking at your first picture, run the halyard around the pulley on the cleat in the pic, back up around the block (the one that'll end up inside the zipper), then back down to the furler cleat. Pass the line through the back of the cleat (flat side), down through the ribbed cleat at the bottom, then back up to the eyelet at the top of the cleat. I tie off around the eyelet and around the 2 halyard lines running up into the jib using a couple of half hitches. There's virtually no pressure on the line, so it'll hold fine.
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Tim
81 Hobie 16
87 Nacra 5.7
Austin, TX
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Posted: Jun 03, 2016 - 01:04 AM
monte, you are worrying about nothing, this is not an H16, were the jib takes the load. On your boat, the forestay takes the load, the jib just uses the fore stay the same way the mast track hangs the main sail.
If you read the manual, you should tension the standing rigging first.
This ensures the jib won't take the main rigging loads. You don't need to haul a zillion to 1 tension on the jib. for 99% of your sailing, just take the wrinkles out, or a little bit more if going to weather.
I use tiny spiderline on my 5.7 never ever worry about breaking it
I hang a clam cleat just above the Harken furler,(if you have no holes, just tie it on with 2mm line) unfurl the jib, pull out the wrinkles, slide spiderline into clamcleat, refurl, push boat off Jetski lift, get your sh*t together, unfurl jib, trim, sail.
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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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Posted: Jun 03, 2016 - 09:27 AM
Why hang a cleat and not just use a knot to secure the line?
When I used a hobie18 style furler (on my h18) I would use a shackle to secure the forestay (where you have a pin) and use the shackle "loop" to tie off the jib halyard -
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Posted: Jun 03, 2016 - 01:41 PM
For my particular setup it makes it easier. My boat stays rigged the entire season, sitting on a seadoo lift. When standing at the forestay,(in the water), the tail end of the jib halyard is above my head, almost full arm reach. Tying, & worse, untying a knot overhead is a pain.
With the clam cleat I simply unfurl jib, pull line to tension, & slide it into the cleat. When done for the day, pull line out of cleat & slacken a bit, then refurl & put safety pin in. It's literally a couple of seconds vs trying to untie a knot at full stretch overhead.
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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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Posted: Jun 03, 2016 - 01:50 PM
gotcha
my 6.0 jib has a jam cleat on it for "almost on the fly" adjustments - but I don't use it
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