I just purchased a used 1983 Prindle 16 and the forestay seems too short to reach the bridle. The forestay wire measures 16' 3 1/2". It is attached directly to the mast. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong?
Thanks
Prindle 16 forestay length
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Posted: Aug 14, 2013 - 05:17 PM
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Posted: Aug 14, 2013 - 09:00 PM
there should be the pigtail attached to the mast and the forestay to it...is it about a foot or so short?
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bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
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Posted: Aug 15, 2013 - 10:27 AM
The forestay now is attached directly to mast. It's about two feet short maybe a little less. There are two lines with rings attached to the top of mast one shorter than the other. Forestay attaches to one of these? If so how should they be connected. -
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Posted: Aug 15, 2013 - 11:00 AM
You need Murray's 02-223400 upper forestay. The ring attaches to longer wire as does the lower forestay. The rope jib halyard goes thru the ring up thru the thimble of shorter wire and down to bridle. When zipping up the jib, the rope halyard goes inside the closing zipper. Bottom half of halyard comes apart via sister clips & stows in tramp pocket. Use your 3rd & 4th hand to accomplish this. Pete -
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Posted: Aug 15, 2013 - 11:23 AM
I know it sound early but a new standing rigging set from salty dog is 145$...you never know how old the ones are that came with the boat and when they fail...oh boy...do they. think of it as insurance.
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bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
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Posted: Aug 15, 2013 - 11:43 AM
Thanks to all. I got the mast up and now I'm trying to get the sails installed just so I can see how everything works.
Before I try to sail I'll take your advice and replace the standing rig, it seems like a cheap safety measure. That rigging failure would be catastrophic. Other rigging failure would just be irritating and inconvenient. Thanks again. I'm sure I'll be back. I guess it's obvious I've never sailed before.
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Posted: Aug 15, 2013 - 01:40 PM
when replacing the bridle wires, soak the screws that are in the aluminum bar with some pb blaster...they tend to seize due to dissimilar metal corrosion. the first time I removed mine(painting the hulls), the screwheads snapped off so I got new screws and alum. bars(murray's). took them off again to install new rigging and had the same problem again so I got new screws and made the bars out of stainless bolts...not sure why the used aluminum in the first place when they had stainless ones for the shrouds, but caution none the less.
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bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
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Posted: May 28, 2014 - 05:49 AM
how about a link to Salty Dog please
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1975 P16 "Spring Rain"Sail # 642
Home Built 2004 Optimist-Delta "Unity"
So old it has Dino hide for a sail Chrysler "Pirateer"
Steve
Oyama BC
Lat 50.1167 N
Long 119.3667 W
1700 ft
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Posted: May 28, 2014 - 06:03 AM
just over 200$ at Murray's for the standing rigging
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1975 P16 "Spring Rain"Sail # 642
Home Built 2004 Optimist-Delta "Unity"
So old it has Dino hide for a sail Chrysler "Pirateer"
Steve
Oyama BC
Lat 50.1167 N
Long 119.3667 W
1700 ft
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Posted: May 28, 2014 - 11:47 AM
http://www.saltydogmarine.com/
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Jerome Vaughan
Hobie 16
Clinton, Mississippi
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Posted: May 28, 2014 - 02:05 PM
When joining stainless screws or rivets to aluminum, put some Duralac on the screw to prevent galvanic corrosion. It comes in a tube and is yellow in color. APS has it. Kinda pricey, but worth it. -
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Posted: May 28, 2014 - 05:52 PM
Thanks Rattle
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