The Harken Traveler on my 1987 Nacra 5.0 broke off the rail during a recent sail. It was blowing hard - gusting to 25 or 30 and the ball bearings disappeared quickly. The traveler looks like this:
http://www.murrays.com/mm…e=28-0214&Category_Code=
I think I can get new end plates, bearings, a bearing loader and mclube conditioner from Murrays rather than buying a new traveler for $212. How many bearings does this traveler hold? Any tips for replacing the bearings and reinstalling the traveler?
In hindsight, the bearing conditioner would probably have prevented the breakage. Maybe some of you can learn from my mistake.
Thanks,
Eric
Harken Traveler
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Posted: Jul 10, 2012 - 07:26 AM
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Posted: Jul 10, 2012 - 08:04 AM
i have never had a harken traveler but i do know u can use shaving cream to hold the bearings in place, and then hose away the shaving cream when done... but a loader wouldn't be a bad thing to own either (esp for only $12)
I doubt one drop would have prevented this... i am assuming the end came off with a bump from the car. if anything.. the traveler rolling better would have ripped it off the end even faster
One trick to prevent this from happening again is to tie a nice sized knot in your trav line, so it can not impact the ends... -
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Posted: Jul 10, 2012 - 08:59 AM
The same thing happened to me on a 450 a few years ago with the same car. It was an awful sound when the bearings hit the water! I think if you go the Harken site, they list the number and size of the bearings per car. They sell them in packs of so many, but they never match the ammount of bearings in the car--like hot dogs and hot dog buns.
My equipment failure was due to the older red Harken stops degrading from UV exposure. We did a surprise jibe and the car slammed into the stopper and kept on going. I replaced them with the black heavy duty ones. I would reccomend using them, but it requires drilling one more hole.
I like the shaving cream idea! I have always used the loader car and it is simple and easy. -
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Posted: Jul 10, 2012 - 09:00 AM
The older ones take 42.
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Rob
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Posted: Jul 10, 2012 - 10:46 AM
Thanks! I don't think it broke from hitting the end, at least not in the last two years that I have owned the boat. The car wasn't sliding well and I sprayed some sailkote on the track. That got it sliding again, but maybe the bearings weren't rolling anymore. When the car broke off the track, it was in the middle of the track and the end plates cracked. It is a 25 year old boat, so I am not too surprised. -
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Posted: Jul 11, 2012 - 07:16 AM
sailkote is not the correct product for bearings. it will collect sand and dirt on the bearings, cause them to stop rolling and eventually wear flat spots.
Mclube onedrop claims to be the perfect product for bearings (i have used it and it worked well... but who the heck really knows if it repels sand and dirt) -
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Posted: Jul 11, 2012 - 09:03 AM
I believe you are thinking of the shorter car, they takes 21/race, or 42 total. The photo shows the longer, (4 1/2" car), they take 64. I know this because I spent 3 hours on my garage floor trying to find the last 2!
The bearings are 1/4" Torlon, they come 21 to a bag, two bags are perfect for the shorter car, but if you have the longer car, you need 64 bearings. Sailing Services Florida http://www.sailingservices.com/ sold me individual bearings to rebuild my furler, they will probably sell you exactly 64, instead of having to buy 4 bags 7 have 20 left over. If you managed to salvage a single bearing, you could buy 3 bags.
Eric is it the same as my car, 4 1/2"?
I can email you a better photo if you can't tell from this one. Also note the stopper knot in the traveller line so the car cannot contact the end stop. No end stop will hold up you accidentally gybe in a strong wind.Those are strong cars, they are double the size of the ones usually used on BeachCats. You can buy rebuild kits, with ends, screws etc. IF the rails of the car are shot, you need a new car.
One further note regarding cleaning/lube. Slosh a bit of dish soap onto the track & rails & slosh the car through it. Then spray with a garden hose while continuing to work the car. If that fails remove car, remove screws on end plate, & scrub everything with a toothbrush.
Also check your track to be sure there are no burrs that are damaging the car.
Harken "recommends" 1 or 2 drops of McLube, BUT, they also say, in print, that if Mclube is not available to use 1-2 drops of a light machine oil, such as 123 as a substitute. You probaly have a lifetime supply of bearing lube in your wifes sewing kit!
Here is some info on bearing count/selection, & maintenance. There is also a page on Harkens site that shows the repair kits, but I cannot locate the link right now.
http://www.harken.com/pdf/4500.pdf
Edited by Edchris177 on Jul 11, 2012 - 09:10 AM.
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Posted: Jul 11, 2012 - 10:06 AM
here is one source for traveler rebuilt kits.
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|118|2234|311532|311533&id=1987423
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Posted: Jul 11, 2012 - 11:11 AM
Yes I know that now, but at the time it seemed like it was helping to free the car.
Yes, that is the same setup as mine. I ordered 3 bags of bearings = 63 and found a few spares. The rails on the car look fine and just the end plates are breaking. Thanks for all the help! Happy sailing! -
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Posted: Jul 12, 2012 - 10:31 AM
Ed: When I said 'older' I meant older than his. I was obviously wrong, though, as that sheet shows. I thought all the non-cb cars on cats were the smaller style for some reason.
Speaking of this... Any idea how to fix a track that's got some knicks in it? I've got one that's integrated into the rear beam (part of the extrusion?) that has some burrs and bites and dings, and I don't know the best way to try to repair it aside from de-burring it.
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Rob
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Posted: Jul 13, 2012 - 12:38 PM
I think you are correct in most of the cars used on Cats are the smaller ones, probably mostly for cost. Harken didn't make those small cars specifically for Cats. They were built for "small boats", & engineered to a spec that would be suitable. Delrin bearings were used for lighter applications, Torlon for a stronger setup. The longer car was simply built to handle bigger sails, usually on bigger boats, Cats or otherwise. I can't remember exactly what the working/breaking load is for the small cars, but it is much higher for the longer ones. I use the longer one because that is what came with my 5.7. I had 2 0f the shorter cars, from the 5.2 & a 5.0. I have found the synthetic bearing cars are prone to more problems than the Kenyon traveler I have, but it is heavier. It uses steel bearings.
I am familiar with the integrated track, that is what is on the N5.0. Just fold a single layer of 400 wet/dry sandpaper around a suitably sized dowel,(pencil, whatever fits) & run it along the track. That will fix any burrs. I would only sand the top surface if material was dinged so as to make it stand proud of the track surface. An indentation on the top surface, or even the bottom of the groove is fine. The bearings,when under load, are sliding against the top of the groove, & the car body does not ride against the top surface of the track. Even small dings along the edges should be OK, just dress any sharp edges. You can see exactly where they contact by coloring the groove with a permanent marker, or dusting some of your wifes makeup powder in the groove. Pull upwards on your car & zip it back & forth a few times, the actual contact area will clearly show. If the dings are outside that area don't worry. In very light air of course, the car "sits" on the groove
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