• toddster
  
  

  • Rank: Lubber
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  Posted: Mar 06, 2010 - 12:38 PM

  I've adopted a venerable 70-model H16 (s/n # 2381). Green hulls (fading to gray), blue decks, may have once had yellow rudders. Maybe they're just turning yellow. It's old, and has plenty of scratches, but I can't find any "soft" spots. Most of the hardware is relatively fresh.
  
  There are three small dings that look like I ought to fix before it goes in the water. Someone has filled a dime-sized hole with some kind of resin, but it's chipping away, or has a new hole in it. There's another dime sized puncture below and to the left of it, that I should fill. I'm not sure what to make of a little quarter-sized bulge near the transom. It looks almost like some kind of hardware is forcing it's way out from the inside. Some sort of backing plate for the gudgeon? Anybody have a clue about this? Could it be old freeze-damage?
  
  
  I'm afraid that if I try to start filling the scratches, it's going to turn into a whole hull re-finish. Any tips on trying to match the original green color? But really, for now I just want go sailing.

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• nacra16sq
  
  

  • Rank: Lubber
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  Posted: Mar 06, 2010 - 03:07 PM

  I am currently redoing my 1988 Nacra. The boat had been sitting in a feild for 10 years without a cover on it. A combination of intense sun and cold winters, took their toll on the hulls, trampoline and just about everything else.
  I have sanded the oxidation and discolouration out, not down to the fiberglass but a good sand. I have also faired the bottoms and touched up any previous repairs with epoxy and filler.
  After this, I have painted both hulls with Interlux Blue/gray primer. After it dried, I sanded with 180 grit until transparent. Interlux brightside was my paint of choice, two coats later and some 400 grit sanding and they look brand new.
  
  Hope this helps.
  
  Jay

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• coastrat
  
  

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  Posted: Mar 06, 2010 - 04:57 PM

  glass the apparant holes, rig that puppy up and see if its all there. if yes then check out those wheels(probably replace bearings) and get it wet! don't do restoration yet, sail that thing and let it tell you what needs attention. after you get the kinks out then worry with some "prettying up". thats my used boat strategy, don't waste time or money on cosmetics when the boat could have pressing functional needs. i bought a 500$ boat last spring that we patched up and sailed a bunch(til we broke it) and now were doing paint and new parts upgrade. good luck! bill.
  
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  bill harris
  hattiesburg, mississippi
  prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
  --

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• nacra16sq
  
  

  • Rank: Lubber
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  Posted: Mar 06, 2010 - 05:46 PM

  I agree with Bill. I, too, sailed it until things started to break. At the end of last year, had a major wipeout in 35kts after the forestay chainplate tore out of the hull. Needless to say, major repair and it was time for some "prettying up" as Bill put it. Good luck. Jay

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• coastrat
  
  

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  Posted: Mar 06, 2010 - 07:24 PM

  yep, we de-masted in 25 kt. winds when the upper forestay crapped out, having the time of our lives up until that point! oh yeah, check out ALL the running gear real good, look for rust/poped wire strands at the couplings on the rigging as well as everything you can see. try not to take it out for the first time when its BLOWING BIG TIME(over 15 or so knots). when your ready to spend some money on it, there is some links to some great companies on another recent thread(good source fo running rigging?) with great deals on line kits, standing rigging sets, and so on. now when you get to the hulls, patch and restore gel coat or paint is the question.
  
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  Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook!
  bill harris
  hattiesburg, mississippi
  prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
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• toddster
  
  

  • Rank: Lubber
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  • Last visit: May 21, 2011
  • Posts: 24

  Posted: Mar 06, 2010 - 08:22 PM

  Thanks guys. My impulse is to get it wet ASAP, although the river is still a bit... brisk.
  
  Strange, I looked right at this several times without seeing the whole picture. Mismatched gudgeon screws, mysterious bulge, back part of the deck broken off. Looks like the port rudder may have been torn off at some time, maybe in a trailering accident. Seems to work OK, but we'll see how it behaves under load. Not sure how I'd fix that.
  
  I did get it rigged without causing too much new damage. (Don't ask.) Everything seems to be in decent shape except for bungees and tramp bags.
  
  BTW, around here, 15 knots is considered a light breeze. Although if it goes much over that, I might be putting away the cat and getting out the kites.

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• DamonLinkous
  
  

  • Rank: Administrator
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  Posted: Mar 06, 2010 - 08:38 PM

  Someone has upgraded your rudder system to the new style one-piece gudgeon. That's nice because they make the rudder pin holes line up perfectly.
  
  Those things don't match the old gudgeon screw locations, a lot of people buy them and don't realize what a pain they are to install.
  
  So it's unknown how good a job was done drilling and tapping the new holes.
  
  The damaged deck lip at the rudders is pretty typical of old Hobie 16's, I would just seal any exposed fiberglass with epoxy.
  
  I would join in and say "Hey, it's a 40 year old boat, just rig it and sail it!"
  
  But since you have a little time before the weather is good, try hitting the hulls with a strong mixture of Oxylic Acid (Barkeepers friend or Wood Bleach), wearing rubber gloves, mix a strong solution in a bucket, rub it lightly on a three foot section of hull, dipping brush often, move on to the next section. Leave on for at least 15 minutes, but don't let it dry. Rinse very well, that will remove oxidation so you can see what condition the gelcoat is in, you might be amazed how good it looks.
  
  --
  Damon Linkous
  1992 Hobie 18
  Memphis, TN
  
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• MN3
  
  

  • Rank: Master Chief
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  Posted: Mar 06, 2010 - 11:18 PM

  paint it camo and go sail! :)

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• turbohobo
  
  

  • Rank: Mate
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  Posted: Mar 07, 2010 - 11:51 AM

  My hulls on my '79 H16 were just as bad, 800 grit waterpaper and an electric sander brought the colour back, you will be amazed.
  
  
  
  
  
  --
  TurboHobo
  H14T
  H16
  P18
  G-Cat 5.0
  P16
  --

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• turbohobo
  
  

  • Rank: Mate
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  Posted: Mar 10, 2010 - 04:04 PM

  
  
  If you look at the transome on my cat, you can see the original oxidized gelcoat
  
  
  
  Here is a contrast of old and new. (not my beer bottle)
  
  
  
  finished off with Poliglow, a clearcoat.
  
  
  
  
  edited by: turbohobo, Mar 10, 2010 - 03:22 PM
  
  --
  TurboHobo
  H14T
  H16
  P18
  G-Cat 5.0
  P16
  --

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• turbohobo
  
  

  • Rank: Mate
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  Posted: Mar 10, 2010 - 04:12 PM

  check it out .....http://www.thebeachcats.c…pictures&g2_itemId=72226
  
  --
  TurboHobo
  H14T
  H16
  P18
  G-Cat 5.0
  P16
  --

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• DamonLinkous
  
  

  • Rank: Administrator
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  Posted: Mar 10, 2010 - 04:41 PM

  Awesome job on your boat Turbo, looks great, now does she go?!
  
  How many coats of Polyglow did you use? I bought a kit last year and never tried it, never got the work done sanding the hulls, don't have a sander and would probably do more damage than good since I've never used one.
  
  --
  Damon Linkous
  1992 Hobie 18
  Memphis, TN
  
  How To Create Your Signature
  
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• turbohobo
  
  

  • Rank: Mate
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  Posted: Mar 11, 2010 - 03:42 AM

  Sanding machine from Harbor Freight about $7,
  Waterpaper from WalMart about $4 for 8 sheets
  Sander has rubber bottom and clips on either side to hold waterpaper, cut sheet to fit, attach one side, pull tight over rubber block and attach to other side. Get out garden hose with spray nozzle, wet area and begin removing oxidization. If waterpaper slips off, rubber block does not do any damage, so easy even I could do it. And if I can, so can you. I used about 6 coats of clearcoat, it goes on very quick and dries even quicker, about 10 min on 1 hull to apply 1 coat, allow to dry while you do other side, then repeat.
  
  --
  TurboHobo
  H14T
  H16
  P18
  G-Cat 5.0
  P16
  --

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• coastrat
  
  

  • Rank: Chief
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  Posted: Mar 11, 2010 - 09:09 AM

  a 7" angle buffer(like used in auto finish) and a quality rubbing compound(3m "cut and buff") will make quick work of oxidation removal. just make sure you use a new bonnett, make sure hull is free of all dirt and sand, and don't let the bonnett touch any dirt or sand(always set it on a clean surface) if there is any sand or dirt it will leave those "swirrels" you have seen on a bad buff job. a budget buffer runs about 75$ or so and bonnetts run about8$ and the cut and buff is about 20$ a bottle.
  
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  Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook!
  bill harris
  hattiesburg, mississippi
  prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
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• turbohobo
  
  

  • Rank: Mate
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  Posted: Mar 11, 2010 - 12:12 PM

  
  
  This is the orbital sander I purchased from Harbor Freight, it was on clearance when I bought it for $7
  
  --
  TurboHobo
  H14T
  H16
  P18
  G-Cat 5.0
  P16
  --

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• MN3
  
  

  • Rank: Master Chief
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  Posted: Mar 11, 2010 - 12:24 PM

  check these out too
  
  http://www.marinestore.co…ml?cart=3351155118212388
  
  http://www.myboatstore.co…yYx_uasaACFQ1nswodEyEmUg

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• MN3
  
  

  • Rank: Master Chief
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  Posted: Mar 11, 2010 - 12:28 PM

  I used a new product called BSinacan and it turned my cat from this:
  
  
  
  
  
  To this:
  

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• turbohobo
  
  

  • Rank: Mate
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  Posted: Mar 11, 2010 - 12:44 PM

  That's what I like about you Andrew, you have a sense of humour........
  
  --
  TurboHobo
  H14T
  H16
  P18
  G-Cat 5.0
  P16
  --

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• MN3
  
  

  • Rank: Master Chief
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  Posted: Mar 11, 2010 - 12:47 PM

  Quote

  you have a sense of humour........ icon_lol

  
  
  stop spreading vicious rumors about me.. would ya...

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• DamonLinkous
  
  

  • Rank: Administrator
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  Posted: Mar 11, 2010 - 12:59 PM

  andrewscott

  
  
  

  
  
  I've got one of those!
  
  --
  Damon Linkous
  1992 Hobie 18
  Memphis, TN
  
  How To Create Your Signature
  
  How To Create Your Own Cool Avatar
  
  How To Display Pictures In The Forums.
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