Is this the correct way to connect the dog bone to the trapeze wire? I have seen some picture with the pulley actually connected into the trapeze loop instead of a shackle.
I assume the bowline at the end of the rope is supposed to be hooked to the shock cord
Anyone have a link to a good photo showing the proper setup. Is the pulley even needed?
What you have pictured is not good. Allowing the line to run against the edges of those blocks will end up cutting it. It’s all good until one day you swing out in the wire, & the line breaks.
You go swimming, the boat flips, & you lose the dog bone.
You need the little black chips that go on the line, & run up against the block. They also serve to define where the line stops, & can be adjusted to suit, albeit not as easily as the cleat. Here is the simplest setup.
I would not setup as in the above post, it’s too much hardware, you don’t need the 2 handle. It also makes the unit too long. It’s a fine line between having the loop what’re you need it, & still have some space for the bungee to keep upward pressure on the dog bone,(note the dog bones give you two points to hook up, you don’t have to always use the bottom one).
If you have 2 people on a 5.7, fixed traps are fine, set them up so the bottom loop has you more horizontal, & the upper loop keeps you higher. This is beneficial when the wind does not warrant both fully out, or in rough water. Being horizontal in rough water means waves tear you off the boat.
However, as Lars points out, adjustable is more versatile. When solo, you need to be able to move to the front beam when going upwind, & for that you need some extra length.
for starting out stay with the KISS principle.
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Admit the I picked was an overkill example, where the double handles are absolutely overkill. Still the Clamcleat adjustment should be there. This one should be more appropriate:
Edited by revintage on Oct 03, 2021 - 01:53 PM.
Soon Frankencat 5.8/F20
You have the system setup correctly, but it looks like you have the rope lock right up against the block, to there would be almost no travel in the system. Generally, you want about 6-12 inches of travel before the rope lock stops against the block. This allows you to pull the trap ring down to your hook while you’re sitting on the hull and once you’re hooked in, the bungee will pull up on the trap line and hold it in your trap hook.
Also, the overhand knot after the rope lock is not necessary and is going to limit where you can position the rope lock.
An adjustable system with clamcleat is nice-to have, especially when you’re trying to figure out the optimal trap height for yourself, but it certainly isn’t a requirement. If you go that route, you’ll probably need to shorten the trap wires.
I've said it before and I'll say it again: Clamcleats hanging in free air (rather then screwed to a surface) gross me out. I use essentially the arrangement shown, but with a proper block with a V-jam cleat on top.
Edited by jonathan162 on Oct 07, 2021 - 09:59 AM.
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