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  • Hello,
    Considering building a custom sailbox for my Tornado's tilt trailer. I've looked around here for ideas, and have used drainage tubes in the past.
    But..I think that I want a top hinged box (or maybe a combination of doors).
    Thinking beyond the obvious materials...has anyone ever built something out of Alucobond:
    (or any of the other similar products from other vendors?

    The 90deg bends are pretty easy:

    But...the other joints are perhaps more difficult. Bonding via epoxy comes to mind....but the aluminum surface is perhaps too smooth for epoxy as the primary fastening system.

    Other materials that I've thought about include alum sheeting (as it can be welded), painted plywood (its cheap, easy to work with and lasts a reasonable amount of time.

    I've also used PVC sheeting on film sets...its certainly weather resistant...but too flexible IMO.

    Tornado USA 606
  • Search the Tech Tip albums here. People have made cat boxes from wood, aluminum, steel, fiberglass, large bore pipe of different materials and textures, 5 gallon buckets, and expanded metal mesh.

    You want your cat box to:
    Be waterproof/ drain well.
    Keep sunlight out.
    Be secure for items contained within whether camping or trailering over distance.
    Not allow contents to acquire damage trailering or in storage.

    In other words, keep your stuff cool, dark, dry and secure.

    Sheet In!
    Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
    Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
    AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
    (Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
    Arizona, USA
  • I went with pressure treated 1/2 ply reinforced with PT 1x3. glued up with PL adhesive and fastened with SS screws. I painted the exterior with bed liner, lined the interior with outdoor carpet. It's like having a 10' plywood skiff on the tongue of the trailer. I had to move the axle forward to lessen the tongue weight. The box holds everything boat related.
    Two sets of rudders, sails, rigging,Torquedo motor, harnesses, PFD, spares, the lot! Nothing on the tramp or in the van.
    The lid is between the hulls ahead of the front beam ans slides back under the tramp so I can get to everything prior to launching.
    I would have preferred a lighter construction material but plywood was what I could deal with doing it in the side yard.
  • Unsure what the costs are with Alucobond, but perhaps consider rivets and appropriate caulk for seams. We own a couple of trailers with an aluminum skinned foam product and that's how they're constructed from the factory.

    If money's no object I'd run with coosa and a couple layers of 1708 on all sides or perhaps Nidacore as a cheaper alternative. Then paint the thing.
  • QuoteIf money's no object I'd run with coosa and a couple layers of 1708 on all sides or perhaps Nidacore as a cheaper alternative. Then paint the thing.

    is this english? icon_confused
  • I got some of this Alumalite stuff from a local sign supply/billboard supply house. Bought some "damaged goods" for substantially cheaper:


    I used it (I think it was thicker than 6mm) to cover the tongue of my trailer so I could walk around on it. Pretty lightweight, ready to paint and can be folded, etc. I cut with circular saw and jig saw. Really, really neat stuff, but once cut, sharp as a razor blade! You must sand and treat edges, if exposed. Otherwise - it's built for outdoors being sign board. Nothing to rot. Supply houses routinely have damaged sheet goods they'll sell at a discount. The damages would usually be either a warp, scratch or in this case dented edges.

    I like it, but sharp when handling. Great once finished.

    Chuck C.
    H21SE 408
  • I used 1/8" aluminium walk plate and built a 10' long mail box on my Hobie 16 trailer... back in 1986

    On my 21SE trailer, I used 14" round by 10' long aluminium spiral pipe... back in 1989.

    They look nearly new today. icon_cool

    Bill 404 21SE
  • I would suggest a plywood box then use a gallon of Henrys 887 tropi cool 100% silicone roof coating. It should stick to the wood without any problem, I know it is sticking to my front porch:). And you can use 100% silicone caulk for the joints, and even gaskets for the lid if you do it right. 100% silicone will stick to silicone, don't get the cheap stuff though, as it is usually mixed with something else and won't stick.
  • Interesting Mark-b. I'm thinking of sanding my plywood box, rolling in epoxy (West Systems equivalent) than painting. Maybe I just sand and go with the Henry's 887? This box has a galvanized steel roof.

    Latest box a friend made with galvanized roofing for the walls/doors and some PVC trim board (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Veranda-3-4-in-x-1-1-2-in-x-8-ft-White-PVC-Trim-15-Pack-827000000/203640236) as the frame. Screwed together. Light and weather proof.
  • There is also this for the frame: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ekena-Millwork-1-1-4-in-x-96-in-x-1-1-4-in-PVC-Square-Moulding-12-Pack-MLD01X01X96SWPV-CASE-12/309458248

    Edited by samc99us on Jul 16, 2020 - 10:35 AM.
  • I've used both, west systems for other stuff. The henry's is pretty tough stuff, I just did a roof with it, that silicone sticks to anything and is slick if it is wet, and flexible. I've painted a portion of the side of the same house with it so you can use it on vertical surfaces, either brush or roller. Also did part of a corrugated galvanized roof with leftover, temperature difference is very noticeable and no problem with adhesion. Lifetime guarantee also:).

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