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Please explain how to rig the scruchy righting line  Bottom

  • I have one and tied it to the dolphin striker yesterday. I capsized my Hobie 16 and couldn't tie a not it the darn thing because of the bungie cord in it. I gave up on it and used my docking line. I couldn't pull the boat up anyway.... I struggled for a 1/2 hour with a garbage back of water over my shoulder with at least 60 lbs of water in it + my 185 lbs and just couldn't do it. A power boat had pity on me finally and pulled me up. That was good since I was on a long drift across the lake miles away from my truck and the sun was going down and I was getting quite cold.....
    The water bag feels really heavy and hard to handle. I'm thinking a righting pole or maybe I need a Hobie 14 instead of a 16.....
  • The elastic righting line (hawaiian righting system) is designed to tie off at one transom (can be tied to the rudder pin or put a separate hole in the hull flange to tie off to). Then wrap around the pylons, across the forward pylons, and back to the opposite transom. In a capsize, you reach up between the pylons and pull the righting line down. It will stretch until the outer hollow covering extends fully and then will firm up and give you something solid to lean against.

    If you want a simpler option, just cut the bungee cord and pull it out of the hollow covering. Then just tie one end of the hollow line to your dolphin striker. In a capsize, just toss the line over the hull and lean back.

    sm
  • Why does it go all the way back to the transom instead of the rear pylons?

    Thanks!
  • Chevy43 - I am surprised you had that much trouble righting a Hobie 16. Are all the areas in you mast sealed as water in the mast will make it significantly more difficult to right the boat. Did you uncleat the main and get the bows pointed into the wind? I would consider practicing righting the boat in a controlled area with someone available to assist you until you feel comfortable righting it by yourself.

    Hope this helps, Scott

    --
    Scott
    ARC 21
    Prindle 18
    Annapolis, Maryland
    --
  • https://youtu.be/W5oEd8cSgE4
    Joe at joyrider is 85 kilos and in 18 knot wind could not right H16 solo.
    This guy no yahoo, a H16 hero.
  • I am also interested in the questions Scott asked. If you were pointed into the wind, had the righting line over the upper hull and were pulling in line with the mast I’m surprised it didn’t come up eventually. Glad you got some help.
  • I got everything uncleated. Getting the main sheet uncleated was kind of interesting because if I wasn't quick the stern would sink while I was back there but I figure that out. There was no water in the mast and I have a mast float I put on so the mast wasn't really in the water. Bows were pointing into the wind. There just wasn't that much wind after the gust that capsized me and what wind there was didn't really seem to be able to get under the mainsail. I'm probably close to 190 with wet clothes and life preserver. Maybe I only had 50 lbs of water in the garbage bag.
    I'm going to make a righting pole I can climb out on. The water bag is a pain to fill rig and hold....
    I might go look a Hobie 14 tomorrow.
  • I wouldn’t jump ship just yet, the Hobie 16 is really a great boat and often the best boat is the boat you got. I agree lack of wind after the gust is a problem but I’d keep practicing before I went through the buy/sell process
  • 245 pounds just isn't enough weight to right a H16 unless you're getting a lot of help from the wind. I use the large Murray's bag with the tackle and cam cleat. It's a PITA but it works....even with no help from the wind I could right my H16 solo back when I weighed around 175 lbs. using the big bag.

    Pretty sure that scrunchy righting line just goes from one transom around the front pylons, and back to the other transom (ends attached with short sections of ~3/16 inch line as described by Dogboy for the Hawaiian system). I don't like such righting lines because they get loose and drag in the water as the shock cord ages, are in the way if you need to step on the hull below the tramp rail, and tend to pull ring dings out of the shroud clevis pins.

    I just use a simple line tied to the main beam, stored in the tramp pocket, and routed so that I can deploy it from underneath the tramp. It has a couple of strategically placed knots to help with hand-holding and one lower down that serves as a stopper to engage my trap harness hook. That takes the weight off my (ever weakening) arms and leaves them free to deal with the bag.

    For the record, I've solo righted my H16 without the bag a few times, but only in a pretty big blow. If I have plenty of drift room, I'll try that first.



    Edited by rattlenhum on Oct 13, 2019 - 08:31 AM.

    --
    Jerome Vaughan
    Hobie 16
    Clinton, Mississippi
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  • Lots of righting systems, and it's best to know they work, by practicing near shore where you can get help if your need it. The Murrays righting bag https://www.murrays.com/product/01-3280/ holds more water and uses pulleys and a cleat to get an advantage. It lifts the bag out of the water before you lean back into it. Any righting rope system has to go over the top of the upper hull in a capsize, and on a Hobie, you can get a little more leverage if the rope is coming over the top of the trampoline. The "Big Cat" righting system at Murrays has a neater stowage system, but a knotted rope around the dolphin striker and works almost as well. https://www.murrays.com/product/01-8293/ The Rick White power righting system takes more work to put together, but is pretty cheap as a DIY https://https://www.murrays.com/product/13-4101/

    All of these systems seem expensive until they have to work, then they suddenly become the best money ever spent.



    Edited by tominpa on Oct 13, 2019 - 12:42 PM.

    --
    Tom
    NACRA 5.7 (1984 Sail 181)
    Pennsylvania
    --

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