Aloha Bob. The jib battens broke as a result of being stored furled at the beach, in a snorkel. They broke in half and tore through some of the pockets too. I have that repaired, as well as new battens inserted. (I am giving up storing this sail furled on the boat
and am looking for a new furling model).
During the repairs, I discovered that the Pattison jib is in better condition than I thought, though the leech is starting to unravel near the damaged battens. I put some repair tape there and will address that next.
"Varying the length of the line connecting the jib blocks through the grommets allows you to set the correct slot between the jib leech and main leeward side. This could also help you control the flutter. 3/16" line is much easier to adjust, and was standard on the original models."
Do I understand you to mean that adding slack in this horizontal line, as opposed to tight, will allow the blocks to travel out more, thus opening the slot? And I would do this only because I don't have the barber hardware installed? I have enough extra line there to do this.
For reference. I'm mostly concerned with reaching on the boat, and helping to power the pinhead main upwind. So any advice on the jib adjustments are welcomed. I'll try shortening the pigtails a bit, for example.
Up till now, I've been kinda blaming the P18 jib because the 18-2 I sail regularly gets loads more power assist from its old jib, and the barber hauler is never used, other than sailing off the wind. I find the jib traveler cars useful.
Playing the jibs to keep their telltails flowing has the most noticeable effect on overall performance, on both boats.
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Prindle 18
96734
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