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PRINDLE 18 JIB "TRAVELER"?  Bottom

  • Hey Y'all. Can anyone explain how the jib block positions are intended to be used? (Moving the blocks slightly forward and back via the grommet holes in the P18 tramp).

    Do the positions work similar to the P18-2 traveler track (open the slot by moving car forward, close it by putting it aft (for high wind and close reaching)? Or is the P18 system counter-intuitive?

    I could use some advice on where to position the blocks for different wind conditions and performance.

    I am not using the Barber Hauler on my boat. I have other uses for those nice big cleats.

    http://cdn3.bigcommerce.com/s-6y6ht/products/1022/images/3608/Prindle_18_Cat_Trampoline_Mesh_Blue__97355.1446232593.1280.1280.jpg?c=2

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    Prindle 18
    96734
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  • On the Prindle 16 & 18 the Jib clew only has one hole, moving the jib cleats changes the sheeting angle. Forward pulls more on the leach and aft pulls more on the foot of the jib. The Barber Hauler adjusts the slot, out opens the slot and then the jib sheet pulls down on the leach.

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    Ron
    Nacra F18
    Reservoir Sailing Assn.
    Brandon, Mississippi
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  • Thanks Ron. What would be the advantages of these P18 settings? I've been using the 3rd hole back so far.

    It's an odd setup since the sides are pinned to the hull with non adjustable wire. Moving away from the center hole positions must rotate the blocks outward slightly as well.

    I use pigtails on the clew and can sheet block 2 block now. I could maybe use a little more tension, as the jib is underpowered IMHO and vibrates too much on the leech.
    (I removed the battens, which broke, but am replacing them soon).

    I am otherwise very familiar with the P18-2 Barber and traveler setup, but the P18 makes me scratch my head,.. think

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    Prindle 18
    96734
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  • x



    Edited by MN3 on Jul 15, 2019 - 12:58 PM.
  • Nacra55Forward pulls more on the leach and aft pulls more on the foot of the jib.

    Nohuhu...as the jib is underpowered IMHO and vibrates too much on the leech.
    (I removed the battens, which broke, but am replacing them soon).

    The leech vibrating a lot makes the sail less effective, and probably helped break the battens. Ron is saying move the jib block bridle to the forward grommets to increase the downward pull on the leach. Replace the battens to help control the flutter.

    Varying the length of the line connecting the jib blocks through the grommets allows you to set the correct slot between the jib leech and main leeward side. This could also help you control the flutter. 3/16" line is much easier to adjust, and was standard on the original models.

    You get surprisingly little power from most jibs. You get considerable power from the jib smoothly feeding the leeward side of the main. Flutter and poor sail trim greatly affect this.

    I consider a Barber Hauler essential for proper jib sail trim on the classic P16 and P18s.

    My final thought is wondering how blown out your jib is, especially at the leech (represented by the batten damage)?

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    Sheet In!
    Bob
    ___/)_____/)_/)____/)____/)_____/)/)__________/)__
    Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
    Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
    AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
    (Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
    Arizona, USA
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  • Aloha Bob. The jib battens broke as a result of being stored furled at the beach, in a snorkel. They broke in half and tore through some of the pockets too. I have that repaired, as well as new battens inserted. (I am giving up storing this sail furled on the boat icon_frown and am looking for a new furling model).

    During the repairs, I discovered that the Pattison jib is in better condition than I thought, though the leech is starting to unravel near the damaged battens. I put some repair tape there and will address that next.

    "Varying the length of the line connecting the jib blocks through the grommets allows you to set the correct slot between the jib leech and main leeward side. This could also help you control the flutter. 3/16" line is much easier to adjust, and was standard on the original models."

    Do I understand you to mean that adding slack in this horizontal line, as opposed to tight, will allow the blocks to travel out more, thus opening the slot? And I would do this only because I don't have the barber hardware installed? I have enough extra line there to do this.

    For reference. I'm mostly concerned with reaching on the boat, and helping to power the pinhead main upwind. So any advice on the jib adjustments are welcomed. I'll try shortening the pigtails a bit, for example.

    Up till now, I've been kinda blaming the P18 jib because the 18-2 I sail regularly gets loads more power assist from its old jib, and the barber hauler is never used, other than sailing off the wind. I find the jib traveler cars useful.

    Playing the jibs to keep their telltails flowing has the most noticeable effect on overall performance, on both boats.

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    Prindle 18
    96734
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  • Aloha RT,

    nohuhuI am giving up storing this sail furled on the boat, and am looking for a new furling model

    In contrast to replacing your furler system, you could consider putting in longer, vertical battens that are parallel to the forestay. These would furl up with minimal wear. This is a common and beneficial furler modification..

    nohuhuDo I understand you to mean that adding slack in this horizontal line, as opposed to tight, will allow the blocks to travel out more, thus opening the slot? And I would do this only because I don't have the barber hardware installed?

    Yes and not quite. Use an easily adjusted knot to allow changes on the water. If you had a Barber Hauler, you would position the jib block for optimum upwind sailing and leave it there. In your case, when running off the wind, you want to be able to open the slot more, and it doesn't take as much line as you might think. As you work this out, mark your jib bridle line so you can re-create proper settings once you get them identified.

    nohuhuSo any advice on the jib adjustments are welcomed. I'll try shortening the pigtails a bit, for example.

    Originally the P16 jib came without pigtails- the blocks were shackled to the clew. I put 12" pigtails on mine to extend the reach of the jib sheet while on the trapeze wire because I didn't want to buy more line. If you keep the pigtails short enough to prevent the possibility of two-blocking the jib sheet, then you're good.

    I can empathize with you.
    I long for the simplicity of my 16, but love the speed and sophistication of the 18-2.
    Prior to my last breath, I would love to trapeze on a foiling cat. But I digress.

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    Sheet In!
    Bob
    ___/)_____/)_/)____/)____/)_____/)/)__________/)__
    Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
    Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
    AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
    (Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
    Arizona, USA
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  • QuotePrior to my last breath, I would love to trapeze on a foiling cat. But I digress.

    If I tried foiling, that's likely what would happen,.. icon_cool

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    Prindle 18
    96734
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