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NACRA 5.2 rigging  Bottom

  • Main halyard
    I seem to have a difficult time raising the mainsail the last 6 feet or so. Is there a trick to making the channel in the mast more slippery? I have tried liquid soap and silicone spray. This helped a bit but did not cure the issue.

    The main halyard wire portion broke at the locking ball. It looks like I need a new wire portion and should renew the rope potion at the same time. Will 1/4" dyneema type line be suitable for this? is there an other option?

    Forestay
    I have installed a roller furler, resulting in the forestay being too long. This results in extreme mast rake. I calculate 9" that it needs to be shortened, including 2" due to the bridlewires attaching to the tangs on the side of the furler drum, 2.5" for the length of the furler and 4.5" for the length of the upper swivel. I am looking at using a swageless eye fitting for 4mm cable to shorten the forestay. Online info seems to say 222" is stock, so shortening to 219" should be right. Anyone have better data for this, or a better strategy to fix the forestay length?

    Quick release lever
    Would I need to shorten the forestay an additional 8" if I install a Johnson Hyfield quick release lever type shroud adjuster in the forestay with the roller furler?

    Thanks in advance for any advice.

    Dennis in Richland, WA



    Edited by wecycle on May 12, 2019 - 08:06 PM.
  • Check your bolt rope, esp if the sail is old.

    --
    John

    Marstrom Tornado
    Nacra 5.0

    CT
    --
  • Ditto - that's what's jamming our sail up right now, once it's raised halfway.

    --
    Prindle 18
    96734
    --
  • +1, change the bolt rope, no need to suffer.
    Also I just found this for mast cleaning ...
    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=cEOVgYbbv4A
    Or you can use it for dressing your lattice salad ... icon_cool
  • wecycle
    Forestay
    I have installed a roller furler, resulting in the forestay being too long. This results in extreme mast rake. I calculate 9" that it needs to be shortened, including 2" due to the bridlewires attaching to the tangs on the side of the furler drum, 2.5" for the length of the furler and 4.5" for the length of the upper swivel. I am looking at using a swageless eye fitting for 4mm cable to shorten the forestay. Online info seems to say 222" is stock, so shortening to 219" should be right. Anyone have better data for this, or a better strategy to fix the forestay length?

    Quick release lever
    Would I need to shorten the forestay an additional 8" if I install a Johnson Hyfield quick release lever type shroud adjuster in the forestay with the roller furler?

    Depending on what terminal ends you use, (thimbles are cheap vs swaged SS fork/eyes), make sure you have enough wire. If you cut off an end, & go with thimbles, you need almost 4” to make a new connection. With a swaged fitting, you lose very little.
    I used a hyfield lever on my N5.7. I used it to tighten/loosen the rig before/after sailing. When done sailing, I released the jib tension, (via a small clam clear attached to the curler), furled the jib, then released the rig tension via the hyfield lever. I shortened the forestay enough to compensate the lever, & the Harken furler.
    You might get a few ideas from what I did, seen here. One of the last photos shows the Hyfield lever I used.
    https://www.thebeachcats.…pictures?g2_itemId=88268

    --
    Hobie 18 Magnum
    Dart 15
    Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
    Nacra 5.7
    Nacra 5.0
    Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
    Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
    --
  • Andinista+1, change the bolt rope, no need to suffer.
    Also I just found this for mast cleaning ...
    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=cEOVgYbbv4A
    Or you can use it for dressing your lattice salad ... icon_cool
    I love that guys channel! Everyone should check him out.

    --
    Prindle 18
    96734
    --
  • At 6 ft from the top your mast may have been dinged from the mast support on your trailer check for this and gently adust with a stout piece of wood maybe a prybar depending how big the ding is hope this helps
  • thank you Edcris177
    The link you shared has some very interesting solutions, some more viable than others. I do not feel so bad about my jury rigged efforts. Looks like a trial rigging on the trailer is warranted before I cut the forestay down. I will do that after the lever stay adjuster gets here. I am building a "swab" or "pig" to clean and lube the sail track in the mast. There does not appear to be any constriction in the channel, so I hope the clean and lube will be enough to fix the issue.

    [/quote]
    Depending on what terminal ends you use, (thimbles are cheap vs swaged SS fork/eyes), make sure you have enough wire. If you cut off an end, & go with thimbles, you need almost 4” to make a new connection. With a swaged fitting, you lose very little.
    I used a hyfield lever on my N5.7. I used it to tighten/loosen the rig before/after sailing. When done sailing, I released the jib tension, (via a small clam clear attached to the curler), furled the jib, then released the rig tension via the hyfield lever. I shortened the forestay enough to compensate the lever, & the Harken furler.
    You might get a few ideas from what I did, seen here. One of the last photos shows the Hyfield lever I used.
    https://www.thebeachcats.…pictures?g2_itemId=88268[/quote]
  • thank you Edcris177
    The link you shared has some very interesting solutions, some more viable than others. I do not feel so bad about my jury rigged efforts. Looks like a trial rigging on the trailer is warranted before I cut the forestay down. I will do that after the lever stay adjuster gets here. I am building a "swab" or "pig" to clean and lube the sail track in the mast. There does not appear to be any constriction in the channel, so I hope the clean and lube will be enough to fix the issue.

    [/quote]
    Depending on what terminal ends you use, (thimbles are cheap vs swaged SS fork/eyes), make sure you have enough wire. If you cut off an end, & go with thimbles, you need almost 4” to make a new connection. With a swaged fitting, you lose very little.
    I used a hyfield lever on my N5.7. I used it to tighten/loosen the rig before/after sailing. When done sailing, I released the jib tension, (via a small clam clear attached to the curler), furled the jib, then released the rig tension via the hyfield lever. I shortened the forestay enough to compensate the lever, & the Harken furler.
    You might get a few ideas from what I did, seen here. One of the last photos shows the Hyfield lever I used.
    https://www.thebeachcats.…pictures?g2_itemId=88268[/quote]
  • thank you Edcris177
    The link you shared has some very interesting solutions, some more viable than others. I do not feel so bad about my jury rigged efforts. Looks like a trial rigging on the trailer is warranted before I cut the forestay down. I will do that after the lever stay adjuster gets here. I have a swageless eye to use on the shortened forestay. I am building a "swab" or "pig" to clean and lube the sail track in the mast. There does not appear to be any constriction in the channel, so I hope the clean and lube will be enough to fix the issue.

    [/quote]
    Depending on what terminal ends you use, (thimbles are cheap vs swaged SS fork/eyes), make sure you have enough wire. If you cut off an end, & go with thimbles, you need almost 4” to make a new connection. With a swaged fitting, you lose very little.
    I used a hyfield lever on my N5.7. I used it to tighten/loosen the rig before/after sailing. When done sailing, I released the jib tension, (via a small clam clear attached to the curler), furled the jib, then released the rig tension via the hyfield lever. I shortened the forestay enough to compensate the lever, & the Harken furler.
    You might get a few ideas from what I did, seen here. One of the last photos shows the Hyfield lever I used.
    https://www.thebeachcats.…pictures?g2_itemId=88268[/quote]
  • This site is sometimes slow to complete your post. Resist the urge to hit “submit” again, you end up with multiple copies....we’ve all done it.
    If you can, find a grassy area & lay your cat on its side. That makes life very easy, you can walk from masthound to base, measure, tweak etc without having to raise/lower the mast.
    I hope you bought the strong,(larger) lever. When I did mine I got parts from a chap who won a gold medal, at the Olympics, sailing tornados. He told me the smaller one, (about 4”) was not strong enough for a 19’ Cat.

    --
    Hobie 18 Magnum
    Dart 15
    Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
    Nacra 5.7
    Nacra 5.0
    Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
    Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
    --

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