Jib sheet:
It appears hobie themselves have made a revision to the jib sheet routing. I have the older style where the jib blocks are fixed in the center and the jib cars are on the tracks and are remotely adjusted from a couple extra lines.
Is it worth updating the jib system to the more modern approach where the jib blocks are on the tracks? Also it seems unnecessary to have the jib cars or blocks adjusted with a line. to me they should just be adjusted by hand like on the h18.
Mast:
The mast step pin has two hinges. So when I try and step the mast both pins allow the who mast to move forward about an inch and the mast base doesn't line up the mast. In order to step the mast I had to raise the mast myself while my brother was at the base of the mast pushing back to get it to seat properly. Is there a trick to this?
I have a comp tip. I haven't been able to fully raise the main. Do I need to be pulling forward on the halyard towards the bow to get around main hook?
Hardware:
the 4 cast alum corner pieces attach to the hulls via 4 1/2" stainless bolts. These bolts on my boat have nylon nuts holding them in. all 4 nuts are also split. I cant imagine this is proper? Can I replace with a regular stainless nut or must it be nylon?
Trapeze system:
I have 4 trapezes. I haven't put them on the boat yet. the previous owner just had two individual shock cords we was stretching under the tramp it would seem. Should I retrofit the shock cord pulley system under the tramp like I have seen? Is that worth my time?
Battens:
The jib battens have hinged outermost sections. In light wind I'm having to manually move jib across mast. this just seems odd. No real question regarding them, just looking for someone to say "that's normal".
Any insight or tips would be greatly appreciated!
Any finally, I've tried every which way to rotate that picture. No luck for me.
Kevin Horecky
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Nacra 6.0 NA
Ogden Dunes, IN
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