[quote=Dogboy]There have been countless small improvements and changes to the H16 over the past 33 years. Numerous different jib block systems. The most important factors are low profile (so you can rake the mast back) and ease of use (so you can cleat and uncleat the sheet easily). As long as the current system meets those criteria, no need to update. The remote traveler adjustment is pretty important on the 16. In a blow, you don’t want the crew going anywhere near the leeward bow to ease the traveler.
Mast step, check the hinge for deformation and replace as necessary. What you are describing with the mast base not aligning with the step was pretty common back in the day. The main halyard needs to be pulled straight down the mast until you get to the last foot or so. Then step forward and pull so the slug on the wire halyard slips past the fork on the mast. Then step back towards the mast to engage the slug under the fork.
The reason Hobie used nylon nuts on the pylon bolts is so that you don’t over-tighten the bolts and crack the aluminum casting. Yes, you can switch to stainless nyloc nuts, but just make them snug and then stop. If you go too tight, you will damage the casting. The nut just keeps the bolt from falling out, it doesn’t affect the stiffness of the overall tramp frame.
Two bungees under the tramp from side to side is standard. The only downside is the trap lines don’t have a consistent “home” location. You can add grommets through the tramp to pass the bungee through like on the new boats. Again, personal choice. I would just start with the stock setup.
Batten hinges are not stock. The stock battens have a tendency to hang up on the jib in light wind. Just another of the fun little quirks of the H16.
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