Just wondering fellow cat sailors, what type and thickness of line do u use for your righting line?
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Frank
Prindle 15/Hobie 16/Hobie 14T
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Line material
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Posted: Jun 25, 2018 - 09:19 PM
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Posted: Jun 25, 2018 - 09:55 PM
Just about anything will work if you have a harness to hook to... if you're hand-holding it or throwing it over a shoulder to sit on it, you want something wide enough not to dig into you as you weight it. My H18 came with a one-inch thick nylon rope over bungie. I've used the 3/8 tail of the main halyard in a pinch...
My current 'righting line' is a 25' chunk of surplus seatbelt webbing that coils up easily mid-tramp and stays velcro-ed in a 3-4'' roll. Last time I dumped, i tied an overhand knot on a bight to hook my harness to the webbing. You can put the knot where you need it, and the wide webbing ties/unties easily.
Randii -
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Posted: Jun 26, 2018 - 07:17 AM
Right now I'm using some old 5mm FSE Robline Dinghy Control as a righting line. I would happily switch to 4mm.
This is dyneema cored line so very strong (dyneema itself would work fine too), and I use a V under the tramp with bowlines tied at each end, plus my trap harness hook to right the boat. The latter is key, any other method of righting wears you out waaay too much to have energy left to get back on the boat for the sail in...
-Sam -
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Posted: Jun 26, 2018 - 11:51 AM
1/2" diameter "hollow braid" line.
The issue is not the strength of the line, it's how easy the line is to hold. Even if you use your trap harness to assist with righting, as the boat comes up, you will need to "climb" the righting line. So you want something large enough diameter that it is easy to hold onto. You can also throw a couple knots in the line to make holding easier.
The Hobie Class rule book actually requires that the righting line be a minimum 3/8" diameter for this reason.
sm -
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Posted: Jun 26, 2018 - 12:42 PM
Perhaps, on a boat with no boards that makes some sense. I get back on using a trap handle after making my way to the side of the boat. The righting line doesn't matter except as a way to attach body weight to boat during the righting process. -
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Posted: Jun 26, 2018 - 05:13 PM
Agreed. Seatbelt webbing works really well for this, as well.
Why? As the boat comes up, I'm moving to center to hold the front beam down...
On the H18, I'll generally board over the front beam if solo or between the wing and the ama if crewed, but the Tiger's higher freeboard (and no wing) has me doing the trap-handle roll.
Randii -
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Posted: Jun 26, 2018 - 05:53 PM
tied to what? -
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Posted: Jun 26, 2018 - 06:01 PM
NO offence intended, (and i hope someone would politely correct me when I miss use a term) ... but just to keep the technical terms accurate:
"The term ama is a word in the Polynesian and Micronesian languages to describe the outrigger part of a canoe to provide stability....
... In modern sailing, the term is sometimes used to refer to the outrigger on a proa or trimaran, or the two sections of a catamaran.[1] However, calling the two sections of a catamaran by the word ama, is not technically correct since they are of equal size. A catamaran is technically a wa'a wa'a or double canoe connected by an aka."
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ama_(sailing) -
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Posted: Jun 27, 2018 - 09:01 AM
Agreed x2. I went to Harbor Freight and bought a 1/2 inch or so line in a 50 foot length. I doubled it up and tied stopper knots about every 2-3 feet. I keep the loop around the mast ball and coil it under a strap on the trampoline. It's cheap, works well and is thick enough to not burn your hands when righting.
And please don't ask me how I know it works ...
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Dana, Holly, Emma & Hannah
LJ/Stu's Dart 18
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Posted: Jun 27, 2018 - 10:24 AM
I'm not talking about using the righting line for climbing aboard after the boat is upright. I'm talking about climbing the righting line (pulling yourself up hand-over-hand as the boat transitions from capsized to righted.
Generally, to get the boat up, you need to "hike" off the lower hull as close to parallel to the water as possible without actually touching the water. As the mast comes up, you pull yourself up the righting line ("climb" the righting line) to keep your body out of the water. If you don't climb the righting line, your body will dip down into the water which will reduce the amount of weight on the line (body weight now being displaced by water) and the boat will stop rotating and the mast goes back into the water.
Even if you tie your righting line to your harness, you still usually need to climb the righting line right at the very end as the boat comes up. And I would not want to be climbing a 1/4" diameter line since that would be extremely hard on the hands. -
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Posted: Jun 27, 2018 - 03:58 PM
aka/ama/wa'a ... I'll do some reading. thx for the link.
I'll try 'climbing' next time I dump. With 100+ degrees forecast for next week, I'll be looking to cool off and I've more time on the H18 than the F18, I'm likelier to swim. :p I understand what you're saying about balancing optimal leverage against buoyancy, I've just been blessed (ballasted?) thus far not to need it.
Randii -
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Posted: Jun 27, 2018 - 05:54 PM
randii its predicted to be 107 on Saturday and 103 on Sunday at Folsom! https://www.accuweather.com/en/us/folsom-ca/95630/daily-weather-forecast/2154339
Buck's Lake is predicted to be 90 on Saturday and 89 on Sunday! Your choice but I'm headed for the hills!
Back to topic, I tie off a 10 foot line to the dolphin striker and stow in a pocket then throw it over the high hull for righting. I like any line that is comfortable in your hands 1/2 inch usually. If your hands get cold its harder to hold smaller lines. -
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Posted: Jun 28, 2018 - 09:42 AM
Dogboy, understood and you are correct. However thicker line = weight on a race boat, and knock on wood we generally only flip in breeze where the initial righting moment plus wind under the sails is sufficient to get the boat upright. Worst case climbing my current 5mm line is fine with Atlas gloves; keep in mind we hoist spinnakers on 5.5mm halyards that have similar loads as a 200lb person.
MN3, eyestraps fastened under the front beam where they meet the hull (as far outboard as you can get them). Various options there, I use padeyes on the dolphin striker bolts as en example. -
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Posted: Jun 28, 2018 - 05:33 PM
Thanks Sam!
