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Gin pole set up options  Bottom

  • Has anyone figured out how to stabilize a mast when being raised using side stays vs dedicated stabilization lines? Possibly a spreader to tension the stay when down? Maybe pulled aft to effectively shorten them? It would need to be tensioner together.

    --
    John

    Marstrom Tornado
    DN Iceboat

    CT
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  • john,
    the thing that works best for me is to attach a short line to my trapeze handles on each side and attach them to the ends of my front crossbeam, leaving just a little inch or so of slack so they aren't too tight when the mast goes up.
    j

    --
    Aquacat 12 (sold)...'87 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'03 Nacra Inter18 (sold)
    Venture 15 (sold)....'89 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'91 Nacra 5.8NA (sold)
    '98 Nacra Inter20
    --
  • I also use the trapeze lines to stabilize the mast while raising/lowering. For some reason my front beam has some flip-flop block on it and I use them, a carabiner and a section of rope to attach the trap lines. I also created a rear, removable, mast stand that is attached to the trailer. The stand sits several feet higher than the tramp and I can slid the mast rearward on the stand to get the mast onto the ball. Then I simply raise it with the winch. The extended mast stand in the rear gives me an angle advantage and this aids in the initial raising of the mast. This works so well that I dont need a gin pole. I can raise the mast in 5 minutes or less. Here is a video of the mast going down: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J95E0Vmjk6s. The rope in my right hand is used to rotate the mast 90* as it's being lowered. Next time I go out I should make a mast raising video.



    Edited by tradisrad on Jun 11, 2018 - 07:49 AM.
  • I use permanent loops around each side of the mainbeam and connect a climbing carbiner to the trap lines for stabilization. The mast goes up easily if these loops stay taught. Application varies per boat:
    * H18: heavy nylon line loops (5/8 or 3/4)
    * F18 Tiger: high modulus fiber (3/8)
    Each system needs a little give, since neither mast ball is in perfect plane with the effective pivots around which the loops rotate. The H18's arched mainbeam requires more give, hence the stretchier nylon line. I tension the lines before starting to raise or lower the mast...
    * H18: I twist two lengths of PVC across the loops and connect them with a bridge of PVC amidships.
    * Tiger (straight beam and HM line has less give in the system): I use a thick nylon ratchet strap between the carabiners to create tension.
    The H18 is difficult to tune too tight (take up the slack, and give a few extra twists until the plucked trap lines sing), the F18 is difficult to tune too loose (just take up the slack, you're not string a guitar).

    With either system, sideways deflection is almost eliminated... Using the mainsheet system to connect the forestay and the trailer mast crutch, the mast goes up and down without drama, even single-handing in a heavy blow. I set up head-to-wind and use an 8' ladder to get things moving... the loads on the forestay/mainsheet/trailer are highest when the mast is close to horizontal.

    Competent crew makes the mainsheet superfluous -- but I always rig in the trap lines, even with extra bodies. With the permanent loops around the main beam the equipment is always in place, and takes hardly any time to rig.

    Randii

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  • October 20, 2018
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