What do you look for in picking a trailer for say, an F18? I have a trailer, but it seems to be a bit small for the boat. I adjusted the rollers to the width of the boat, but the roller brackets now hang off the edge of the trailer cross bars about an inch and a half. I think they're strong enough, but I also have the transoms overhanging the rear trailer cross bar by about a foot and a half.
Is there a minimum separation to look for between front and back rollers/cradles or trailer length?
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Brett
2012 Goodall C2 with 2014 Hulls (warranty)
1992 Hobie 18 w/ SX Wings (Sold)
Tucson, AZ
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Sizing trailer
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Posted: Apr 17, 2018 - 01:22 PM
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Posted: Apr 17, 2018 - 02:24 PM
For the crossbar spacing, I would say you want the trailer crossbars to fall just about directly below the boat crossbars, or maybe just a little bit outside (forward and aft) of the hull crossbars. Trailer length, longer is generally better. The trailer will track more evenly (less chance of fishtailing) and less opportunity for the bow of the boat to contact the tow vehicle when making sharp turns. Plus, you can always cut the tongue shorter if needed.
For the trailer itself, fully boxed frame and crossbars are the strongest. Heavy channel for the trailer frame is OK too, but some trailers are very basic, formed C shape frames that may not be up to the task for heavy loads or long lives. Galvanized steel is best, even if you never plan to dip the trailer in salt water. Look for a fully welded, 2,000 Lb axle. Also check the springs are correct for the weight you plan to haul. Too soft or too stiff can cause problems. 12" wheels for sure.
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Posted: Apr 17, 2018 - 04:45 PM
The trailer I have is boxed, galvanized, and the spacing between the cross arms is just a bit longer than the spacing between the cross beams on the boat. I had the trailer positioned so I could get straps from just behind the rear and just ahead of the front cross beams to the cross arms on the boat. I thought this would be best.
But, after a recent trip, I noticed cracks in the gelcoat in the top of one bow, about halfway between the tip of the bow and the cross beam. This made me wonder if I had too much bow overhanging. Does this seem right?
I plan to have the gelcoat repaired, but it's expensive and I really don't want a repeat.
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Brett
2012 Goodall C2 with 2014 Hulls (warranty)
1992 Hobie 18 w/ SX Wings (Sold)
Tucson, AZ
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Posted: Apr 17, 2018 - 07:32 PM
First thing I would do is replace the rollers with cradles. I would find where the bulkheads are inside the hulls and set the cradles in line with them taking into account the balance of the boat. My F16 balances with the cradles just in front of the front cross bar. Matt from Falcon Marine was very helpful explaining what was best and why for the boat. I have adjusted my Tiger trailer with the same mind set.
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dk
Blade F-16
Hobie 14
Corsair F-242
Mirage 25 (Sold)
Hobie Tiger (Sold)
Hobie Tiger (Sold)
TomCat 6.2 (Sold)
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Posted: Apr 18, 2018 - 01:44 AM
I have double rollers front and rear. I bought cradles, but they fall through the double rollers (which are wide-spaced).
So, I made some rests out of thin (1/8") plywood, covered with bunk carpet that I slip between the hulls and the rollers. The plywood curves slightly from the weight of the boat. I did this as a temporary fix, until I get the front rollers removed and replaced with the cradles.
But, I don't understand why I was able to drive the boat 400 miles with just the rollers and had no issues, but had cracks show up in gelcoat after only 100 miles with the plywood on the rollers.
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Brett
2012 Goodall C2 with 2014 Hulls (warranty)
1992 Hobie 18 w/ SX Wings (Sold)
Tucson, AZ
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Posted: Apr 18, 2018 - 10:10 AM
Did you change the spacing on the rollers fore and aft? Its pretty easy to load a boat on a trailer in the wrong location.
Front spacing is the most critical as that is where the load is (rear has basically no weight). You want fixed front cradles, the rear cradles I just pop into position on the rollers. All of the above is important, find the bulkhead to place the front roller on. Looking at the diagram for the C2, there is one roughly 1.5' forward of the front beam that I would use.
The other issue is how you tie the boat down. Strapping across the hull to me is a big no-no, as this can put the seam in compression and result in seam failure (which would appear as gelcoat cracks running length wise down the hull, top and bottom, older C2's have shown seam failure issues).
I use a simple but effective system on my trailers, which are 2 long ratchet straps run fore and aft across the beams on either side of the boat outboard of the self tacker.
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Posted: Apr 18, 2018 - 10:30 AM
Be careful using any type of ratchet strap. They are capable of generating huge loads which can damage hulls. On my boats, I use a single line around each of the four crossbar corners (between hull and tramp) tied down to anchor points on the trailer all in opposing directions and tied using trucker's hitches. Since evolving to this system, the boat never shifts on the trailer, I never have to deal with tie downs loosening on the road, and no damage to the hulls from over-tensioning or straps vibrating in the wind.
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Posted: Apr 18, 2018 - 12:24 PM
Right. I don't use ratchet straps, I use the kind that lock into place, and you then tension by hand.
My tramp attaches in a way that doesn't leave any space at the end of the cross bar. I thought about adding padeyes to the corners of each cross beam for this purpose, but I think they'd have to be rather large.
At the rear, I am now using a rope that goes clear across the back of the boat, with carpet for padding where it's against the hull.
Here's some shots. The boat is now pushed aft about 1.5 feet from where I had it originally, with the rear cross beam aligned over the rear rollers.
I also have some shots of the gelcoat cracks. They are above the bridle attachment point, but not around the bridle.
I'll add the photo's to an album and include the link in another reply.
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Brett
2012 Goodall C2 with 2014 Hulls (warranty)
1992 Hobie 18 w/ SX Wings (Sold)
Tucson, AZ
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Posted: Apr 18, 2018 - 12:36 PM
I uploaded some photo's.
https://www.thebeachcats.…ictures?g2_itemId=129782
https://www.thebeachcats.…ictures?g2_itemId=129785
https://www.thebeachcats.…ictures?g2_itemId=129794
Edited by ropewalker on Apr 18, 2018 - 11:59 AM.
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Brett
2012 Goodall C2 with 2014 Hulls (warranty)
1992 Hobie 18 w/ SX Wings (Sold)
Tucson, AZ
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Posted: Apr 18, 2018 - 01:42 PM
Looks like a pretty standard trailer setup to me. Maybe spread the crossbars a little farther apart front-to-back, but I don't really see anything out of line.
I would say there's pretty much no way those cracks at the bow have anything to do with trailering loads. The tip of the bow sees basically zero load on the trailer (maybe if you had some cracks back by the crossbar that could make the trailer setup suspect, but not up at the tip of the bow). My guess is that there's a bulkhead or other reinforcement in the bow near the bow tang and that's creating a hard spot in the hull causing the paint/gelcoat to crack as the hull flexes under (sailing) load. I think every boat I've owned has eventually developed some degree of minor gelcoat cracking. I wouln't worry about this unless the cracks grow significantly or the boat starts taking on water.
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Posted: Apr 18, 2018 - 02:52 PM
Almost, if not all of the C2's here in Texas have similar gelcoat cracks. A friend just picked up a very very lightly sailed 2013 that has been covered all of it's life and it has those cracks.
IMO it isn't a load or use thing, it's something about the gelcoat they used. -
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Posted: Apr 18, 2018 - 03:20 PM
Thanks guys.
I wondered because it's a 6 yr old boat, and didn't have those cracks when I picked it up.
It could just have been an underlying issue waiting for the right conditions I suppose.
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Brett
2012 Goodall C2 with 2014 Hulls (warranty)
1992 Hobie 18 w/ SX Wings (Sold)
Tucson, AZ
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