In the assembly manual nacre show optional jib tracks could someone please explain the reason behind putting these tracks on .Benefits placements and weather they are better than the cables .
I don't see any referene to it here - https://www.thebeachcats.…280&g2_imageViewsIndex=1
do you have a digital version you can share so we can comment on what you are talking about?
I can't comment on the tracks but I removed the wires on mine and mounted the Jib to the beam. I had to re-cut the Jib of course but I love the simplicity and together with a square top main I don't notice any loss of performance. In general this works better and I never blow a tack solo, which more than makes up for any area lost.
That’s a good idea, i’ve been thinking about it for my N5.5. The N500 comes that way. i’m just too lazy to cut the jib, but i like the ida of a free tramp.
The track allows to balance the tension between foot and leech. Loosening the leech is a way to depower, I never do it.. there’s also an adjustable plate you can put at the clew that does the same.
I have them on the 5.7, ('84), though our 5.0, ('88) does not use them.
The idea is to change the sheeting angle slightly, slide the jib block further back the higher the wind gets. I think the idea is to regulate leech tension, and/or choke off the slot. If I were a competitive racer I might pay more attention to them, but in practice I mostly leave them. On light wind days I might slide them forward. If the wind is really honking, I will pull them back, or just leave the jib furled, though tacking often becomes a 3 point turn.
Just looking through my album here, I don't have a photo showing the location. My boats are boomless/boardless, not sure if the position of the tracks would be the same.
If you look through the old Nacra assembly manuals, you will see that the tracks appear to be in different places on different boats. One photo shows the front of the track about equal to the pad eye that holds the skippers trap bungee, ( behind the edge of the daggerboard). Another photo shows the track end about equal to the centre of the daggerboard.
One thing to be aware of if you add them, you also need the little sliding "cars" that go into the tracks, & it is beneficial to use the Harken stand up springs,(between the slider & the attachment post of the jib block). They keep the block from banging around on the hull/tramp & wearing it.
Also, although they look identical, the sliders from my H18 Magnum & N5.7 are not interchangeable. I didn't like the Seaway blocks on the H18, & tried to install the Harken blocks from the Nacra. I could not just attach the Harkens to the Hobie slider, as Hobie block is permanently attached to the slider. The Harken slider is just slightly thicker, & would not go into the Hobie track.
The slider track rivets to the aluminum track that holds the tramp. For attachment you need rivets with countersunk heads, & need to be careful if you have to drill new holes in the track. The heads must be flush, else you either won't have clearance to get the car in the track, or it will hit every rivet when you try to adjust it's position.
It depends what you mean by "better". I personally do not like the wire system on the original 5.2, it clutters up the tramp & is great for removing skin, but it might be incrementally better performance from the jib.
Edited by Edchris177 on Jan 15, 2018 - 11:46 AM.
Hobie 18 Magnum
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
Andinista - i would think you know this but for others reading:
getting rid of your 4 way (or 2 way) has pros and cons
you are (somewhat) drastically altering the design of the sailplan by getting rid of the stanard placement
sure you free up space, and dennisMe states he doesn't feel any difference in performance (by adding a square top) ... - what are you using as a standard to know the actual results (i.e. gps data?)
i say hmmmmmm - if this set up was as efficient as a 4 way (or even just outhaul) , it would have been done by everyone - who doesn't want a cleaner deck?
by moving the block to the front beam you are reducing the foot of the sail by a large %
reducing the ability to adjust the jib blocks (fore and aft) also reduces the ability to move the blocks for optimal upwind and down wind sailing, or matching the blocks to the wind/wave/weight conditions
Sure adding a flat top main may negate some of the effects of this altered foresail - and if your not a racer / may not be a big deal
but i doubt it doesn't have an impact
Edited by MN3 on Jan 15, 2018 - 12:52 PM.
agreed and if you can test rig without drilling - go for it for sure!
f-18's were born with 1 purpose in life
upwind & downwind racing - they don't need a large foresail, only an efficient one
unless your doing this style of racing .... not sure it's great to use them as a model (ymmv)
My second mystere 5.5 was purchased from a friend .
that 5.5 that had been converted to a self tacker (prior to me owning it).
I sailed against this boat with my stock 5.5 many times - this small jib config was the only time i ever outsailed this boat/skipper
I crewed on it a bit too - it was fun to clean up the deck but it got killed at every point of sail unless it was close hauled or a spin was used, and the self tacker actually disrupts the spins air so there was that too. He eventually put back the harken furler setup as the little sail made him too slow over all -
Edited by MN3 on Jan 15, 2018 - 01:31 PM.