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Nacra 5.2 Possible Structural Issues  Bottom

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  • That sounds great. Glad you used epoxy. Early on, I used polyester resin for fiberglass repairs. Results were poor, and l learned later from this website that epoxy is the way to go. I'm no expert, but it really looks like you will you will have a nice repair that you can be proud of.
  • More progress! I got the boat and trailer stuffed into my 1950's one-car garage and bedded the beams today. My decision to bed the beams was based on my guess at how physics works in this boat. I'm not super confident in my hull repair, but the only time that weakness would come into play is if the hull gets racked sideways. The hull is less likely to slip sideways if the beams have more grip on the hull. At least that's my thinking.

    The current beam pockets appear to only engage the hulls at each edge and the center seam. I think it's due to the shape of the mold, but the seam and edges of the beam pocket are slightly higher. If I properly bed the beams into the hulls, it all SHOULD grip much stronger and be more solid. That's the hope at least. When all is said and done, I may put some non-skid paint in the beam pockets as well to enhance grip even more.

    On to the photos. First I sanded down the gelcoat a little to give the faring compound something to grip to. Then I mixed up some TotalBoat Total Fair. Love the blue+yellow=green. Easy to tell if I've mixed it enough.


    Then I buttered each beam pocket with the faring compound, and set in a layer of wax paper to act as a bond break.



    Then I set the beams in place and tightened them all down to 18 ft-lbs with a torque wrench.



    Once I had a set of straps tight enough, I did another set, then came back to the first set a few minutes later. The faring compound had time to squeeze out, and the bolts were less tight. I'd re-tighten them to 18 ft-lb, and so on. 2 or three rounds of that and I think they're pretty solidly bedded.

    I went around and scooped a majority of the overage off the hulls. Now I just wait for it all to set up, and see if the beams come back off! Hopefully I'll be ready to disassemble everything again, and get to hull sanding, doo-dad removal, and prep for new paint.

    Will this make a difference? Who knows. I've never sailed the boat, so I won't be able to tell a difference. I guess if it doesn't sink or crack, I did it right.

    1979 Nacra 5.2
    Central Virginia
  • I 'll tell you what I found on my 5.2 I went to remove the tramp for repairs instructions said loosen straps and lift front beam on one side so I did all that and it wouldn't budge .When I heaved the whole boat came up so on closer inspection I found the beam has 2 bolts on each side inside the beam bolted thru into the hull WOW! My boat is in great shape other than the tramp seeing that it's a 30 year old boat I wasn't going to mess with bolts I really couldn't get at so I cut the tramp off and will use cleats and grommets to attach it in a more user friendly manner . The point is the front beam is bolted to the hull and strapped down it's not moving. Was yours like this too and in repairs maybe the bolted part was removed? Just my 2cents worth hope it helps
  • Erik, Nice repair. If you find wear after a few seasons and you need to bed the beams down again, waxing the beams as mold release will get the best fit. Using wax paper results in several thousand clearance in the bolted joint (particularly fore and aft). This may grow over time.

    You have certainly made the joint better than ever. Nice work.

    Inter 20
    Southern Maine
  • Glassed hulls - check!
    Beams bedded - check!
    Power wash hulls - It’s Time!

  • DogboyPower wash hulls - It’s Time!

    I am quite certain I have no idea what you are talking about.


    1979 Nacra 5.2
    Central Virginia
  • loquinho
    DogboyPower wash hulls - It’s Time!

    I am quite certain I have no idea what you are talking about.



    Damon Linkous
    1992 Hobie 18
    Memphis, TN

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  • I was in the same boat as you are when I picked up an H18 Magnum. When you do go to pressure wash, be sure to keep the spray on a very shallow angle. You want to work it as a peeling action.
    You have a good setup there. I advise getting one of those rolling mechanics stools, ( cheap at something like Harbour Freight). You can then easily control the wand & find the proper distance for most effective work. It will take several hours, the stool makes it go easy.
    It doesn’t look like there are any decals, but if there are, go VERY easy around them. You can use spray at a much higher angle, right up to the edge of the decal. The high angle will prevent stripping, but be aware if the decal is brittle, & you get to close, you will power through it.
    The non skid decks are the hardest to clean. Each ridge leaves a small edge that the pressure washer misses. The embossed "diamonds" mean 4 ridges, so you have to go at it from all 4 directions to remove all traces of grunge.


    Edited by Edchris177 on Dec 05, 2019 - 12:10 PM.

    Hobie 18 Magnum
    Dart 15
    Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
    Nacra 5.7
    Nacra 5.0
    Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
    Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap

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