no offense but i disagree on materials suggested - I would spend the money and use proven products
use west system - proven and takes gel-coat after (good to have around for future needs)
I would use mill fiber (has other names) - it will give strength to your epoxy, micro balloons only add air/body (texture for thickening).
Nacra 5.0 Hull Repair - Opinions Please
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Posted: May 05, 2015 - 10:07 AM
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Posted: May 05, 2015 - 11:08 AM
No worry MN3, I'm a huge West System 105/205 fan(206 slow hardener for summer time 80 deg. plus) and would not use anything else.
I buy all my cloth here:
http://www.fibreglast.com/
Edited by leeboweffect on May 05, 2015 - 11:29 PM.
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Posted: May 05, 2015 - 01:00 PM
True, balloons have no structural aspects so it depends upon how much of a crack you're trying to fill etc. I've put fb tape over fillet of balloon thickened epoxy and then wetted cloth to form acceptable seems on stitch and glue. I've used both West and US Composites. I used west fast in 70 degrees and it still took 1 hour to set...it also blushed. I would never use slow for small job like being talked about. You do realize there's only several manufactures of resin components in the country. West, US Composites and others get their epoxy from these sources and private label with their own branding. Insuring there are no voids or air underneath resin is more important than the brand of epoxy most used, West, MAS US composites,Raka, system 3 etc. IMO. I have 2 part Perfection over Us Composites on a roof of utility trailer and it looks as good now as when I painted it.. years ago. Roof, sun, rain snow etc...
But, after you experiment with materials yourself you'll come to your own conclusions.. The 1:5 mix for oz quantities of west was PITA plus too thick for me.
Edited by goodsailing on May 05, 2015 - 02:35 PM.
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Posted: May 05, 2015 - 03:42 PM
should have added the disclaimer "ymmv" -
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Posted: May 05, 2015 - 05:35 PM
It will all "blush", unless you use the "clear" hardener, made for applications like cedar strip canoes etc. I used it to apply a wear strip down the bottoms of the 6M Mystere. It cured absolutely clear, invisible from 10'.
Here is a filler guide, I have mostly used microfibres, strong, cures to an off white,(depending on how much you used) yet sands OK. Collodial silica is the strongest, but a b*tch to sand, & shows through .
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/fillers
Setting time is temperature dependent, but not wholly outside air temp. If you mix a full cup, it will get hot, & kick much quicker. If you pour it out into a shallow pan, you will triple the pot life.
For hardener choice;
http://www.westsystem.com…ardener-selection-guide/
I bought a gallon of epoxy, it drops the coat in half...& I know I'm going to break something else down th e road.
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Posted: May 05, 2015 - 10:33 PM
Ed, another trick I read somewhere to increase pot life and open time is to refrigerate both components prior to mixing. Never tried it, but it makes sense.
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Posted: May 05, 2015 - 11:26 PM
I don't worry about pot life as after 1 min mix it's poured out. What are you guys doing with the pot that you worry about it setting up in the pot? You may be mixing too much. Try mixing only what you need as all you mix should be put down after a minute or so mixing. Unless doing patch work, then use small quantities. balloon mix will set faster the thicker you make it.
Blush is no problem, simple wash with clean water.. don't even need soap.
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Posted: May 06, 2015 - 09:33 AM
I have never tried it on boat repairs, we generally do not get the heat that the Southern States experience. I did try it once with a product called Git Rot.
I was fixing a soft end of a leg on a 200 year old dining table, & wanted the max time for the product to soak into the existing wood.
When I did the wear strips on the Mystere, temps were around 30C, (86F) & there was lots of time to "paint" the entire length, lay on cloth, & paint again, using West/clear hardener. You will have ample time to manouvre the strip inside the hull while it is still pliable. Even if organized, it can easily take more than 10 minutes to get it placed & secured, as often you overlook some detail & have to improvise, with the clock running.
I used the 3M Bondo stuff on the SS Minnow & it would kick in minutes, was only good for simple jobs, & it cures to a brownish color..
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Posted: Jun 21, 2015 - 11:48 AM
Here are a few repair update photos:
Backer stock preparation:
The perfect backer:
First backer in:
Seventh backer in:
Now bevel around the perimeter, install the outside finish patch and paint. Not sure how fast progress will be as we're in a blazing he!! right now in NC with 95 +- highs everyday.
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Posted: Jun 21, 2015 - 12:42 PM
Looking good! Have to admit though, it's the first time I've ever seen a surgeon put a Nacra in traction....
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Posted: Jun 21, 2015 - 06:00 PM
That spring is a real good idea, greatly simplifies tying off the tension lines.
Your backers are thicker than the original hull, that will be the stiffest part of the boat.
Just curious, did you cut the top photo into 2" squares?
Why not slip the entire backer in end first, then pull into place with 4-5 strings, leaving it as a continuous patch?
Grind very little on the outside, keep the width to what will be covered by the speedline, the fix will then be invisible. You don't need a ton of strength on the outside, what you placed on the inside is stronger than th e original hull.
Now get that baby back in the water, those boats are a ton of fun, both solo or two up.
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Posted: Jun 22, 2015 - 09:57 AM
Hilarious Tim
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Posted: Jun 22, 2015 - 10:14 AM
Ed, the top photo shows the backers in the raw, as cast. They are made from 4" wide 9 oz. tape, 2 plys. Each ply is about 0.010" thick. Total thickness after curing is about 0.024".
Yes, they were cut in to 2" X 2" squares after curing. A single strip would have been wonderful, stronger and much faster, but the fender washer technique I used to keep the top and bottom edges aligned forced the one 2 X 2 at a time approach.
Note, I measured the hull (skin) thickness including gel coat = 0.045" by my vernier.
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