Welcome anonymous guest

Please Support
TheBeachcats.com

Nacra 5.5 Questions from new catsailor  Bottom

  • Hi,
    Thanks for a great forum. New to catsailing, this gives me al ot of valuable info.
    I found a used N 5.5 Sl thats looks ok. Nr 4013. Do you know what year it was built. Any perticular things to look for? Built to last?
    Planing on solo it (85kg) for the most time, but also with crew approx (170 kg). Is this the right cat would you say?
    I guess that the dagger board wells would be a risk point, if there was a crash. Is it possible to repair without a major rebuild?
    What of spare parts, are there any of the common needed replacement parts?
    Thanks!
  • Lupus,
    I take it "Nr 4013" is a sail number? Sail numbers don't have much to do with the year the boat was built. Look for a hull ID number on the top, outside, stern of the starboard hull by the port cover. The last 2 digits should be the year.

    --
    Ron
    Nacra F18
    Reservoir Sailing Assn.
    Brandon, Mississippi
    --
  • lupusHi,
    Thanks for a great forum. New to catsailing, this gives me al ot of valuable info.


    Hi lupus welcome to TheBeachcats.com!

    I've split your question into it's own topic rather than have it tagged onto the Nacra 5.5 repair topic.

    Where are you located? Often that changes the view of which boat is best. We have a lot of experienced Nacra folks here so I'm sure will get advice.

    --
    Damon Linkous
    1992 Hobie 18
    Memphis, TN

    How To Create Your Signature

    How To Create Your Own Cool Avatar

    How To Display Pictures In The Forums.
    --
  • Hi Lupus, welcome.

    I am new to 5.5's and I am currently fixing one up, and you can see my many questions and answers http://www.thebeachcats.c…ms/viewtopic/topic/15286

    This thread might help you find the serial number, either on the transom or aft top deck surface of one of the hulls. http://www.thebeachcats.c…nc=viewtopic&topic=14494

    --
    Tom
    Nacra 5.5 Uni
    (actually a chopped down 18sq)
    (soon to be 5.5 sloop)
    Northern California
    --
  • Lupus, congrats on the purchase. As said above take a look on the top back of the starboard hull. The serial number can be cast into the hull or manually engraved depending on the year of manufacture. Last two numbers are the year and but it also might give you other info. There is a thread on serial numbers in here somewhere. THe 5.5 SL was build starting in the late 70s right into the 80s I believe.

    THey are good solid boat and pretty darn fast also. Look here for some info: http://www.sailingproshop.com/catamaran_guide.aspx

    Cracks around the front beam and straps could be indicators of issues. Cracks and spidering in the paint in that area is normal normal. Major cracks where the shroud tangs and bridle tangs are also somewhat common. Again small cracks where the tangs enter the hulls are normal Im talking about cracking through the rivets. Other than that basically anything that looks bent or damaged. Post some photos on here and lots of people will0 be happy to critique for you.

    THat cat will be a bit of work to solo but isnt much bigger than my 5.2 which I solo and isn;t much smaller than my 5.7 which I also solo. Its doable. I would suggest starting slow in light wind, and going with someone who knows what they are doing if you can. Really important the first couple of sails just in case something isnt rigged properly or something decides to break. Also try dumping it over and righting it in shallow water just so you know how and to determine if you are heavy enough to right it. If not you will have to look into a righting bag or some sort of righting system. At 85 kg solo you will likley need a righting bag in most conditions. With 2 people you should be fine.

    Yep the daggerboard wells are the thing that worries me the most. THe most dangerous thing is if you hit a submerged object at full speed. They can take a pretty good bump even coming into shore but the unexpected one can cause major damage. If that , you have to remove the decks on the hull to fix it. Basically you shimmy a knife between the deck and the hull and go around several times to cut the epoxy glue and pry them off. Then you can do the proper fiberglassing from the inside. Not something you really want to have to do but it isnt the end of the world. Fortunately it isnt something that happens very often. I haven't hit anything hard enough yet (knock wood) and I only know of a few that have.

    Spares are pretty available, most of the parts aren't really made anymore (some are) but there a lots of old boats and parts around. Only a few items are specific to the boat like the rudders, daggerboards and castings. Most of the parts are interchangeable between all Nacras of similar vintage. There are lots of people on here willing to sell or swap parts as needed a few guys make a business at it. If you can't find a part there is usually a pretty simple work around or a way to simply fabricate what you need. Overall parts aren't a big issue. The big thing that everyone breaks is the mast ball/dolphinstriker. This is because you have to rotate the mast when you lower it and its easy to forget and bend your dolphinstriker. Don't forget, the balls re pretty available and dolphinstriker posts can be fabricated with a length of threaded stainless rod broken base castings for the mast are a little more problematic but there are some floating around and they can be repaired.

    Hope this helps. Feel free to post specific questions and pictures, try to do a search first though since many questions have been asked many times. We absolutely don't mind answering them so don't be afraid, but most of us have answered the same questions several times in the past. But there are always new spins on old problems. :)

    Regards,
    Dave

    --
    Dave Bonin
    1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
    1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
    Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
    --
  • It's a great choice for single handing and for 2 or even 3 on board. I weight the same as you and find it the perfect size. With my previous N5.0, having a crew of my size had a noticeable impact, my N5.5 still goes fast and you can fly a hull on moderate wind. And single handing isn't much different, probably because it's a bit wider: 8' 6" vs 8' (note that 5.7 and 5.8 are also 8'). I sail sometimes solo and most often with my two daughters and wife, usually two of them with me, sometimes all four of us. (They are light, four adults of your size would be too much, three would be in the edge).
    Here is one them with me.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=24R_BmTW64U
    You may find that the bows are a bit too submerged at some points, this is because the crew should be further aft, but my daughter feels safer with her feet touching the front beam and the stay (she needs some decent sailing boots)

    For a recreational sailor that I am, I also find a good compromise between simplicity and tuning possibilities.
    If your jib blocks are attached to the hulls it won't point well, either get the 4-way jib system, which I find a bit too complicated, or just have a decent line attached from one side to the other, with a couple loops to attach the jib blocks. Somewhere close to the hiking straps is fine. I made an adjustable system but I rarely adjust it.

    You will enjoy the boat. Good luck!
  • Great video, Andinista!

    --
    Tim
    81 Hobie 16
    87 Nacra 5.7
    Austin, TX
    --
  • How much for it? You can't go wrong with a newer 5.5 SL. These parameters is what led to the F-18 class.

    --
    David
    Nacra 5.5SL
    Nacra 5.2 (sold)
    San Diego, CA
    --

No HTML tags allowed (except inside [code][/code] tags)

  • Options

This list is based on users active over the last 60 minutes.