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H16 owner picked up H18 and a little confused?  Bottom

  • I could use some detail... I have the manual. I got a H18 cheap, It was fully disassembled like "if it can come off" it was off. I put on the wires and rudders and everything as I thought it should go. Being a Hobie 16 sailer. (I had 4 boats) I'm confused on some H18 things.

    1. When laying the mast back to get ready to raise it. The (thing? - ahem... mast rotator arm?) points back into the tramp. Any tricks for this? I let it kinda poke through the tramp lacing. But it looks like it should pivot? up and or down? I have it fairly tight and it doesn't move much and only with much force. So where is this when raising the mast?

    2. Dagger board bungees tie? FORWARD? to where? the bungee to help keep tension on them if at 1/2 way up.

    3. I see trap holes for bungee in sides. I wondered how to run bungee's found a old 2009 thread on here says run forward bungee FORWARD under lip? I'll find something to connect to? and aft bungee back and I'll find a connect point under lip? I'll look for this when I'm at the boat next time.

    4. Mast ROTATOR is new to me - it has some thimble looking little pulley block on it and I have no blue hot to attach to boom properly. (I just kinda tied it and it worked for my maiden run) but wasn't right. Any pics?

    5. MAST (connect point) bearing under mast... 16 has a bump in the pocket on teflon bearing. 18 has CUP on mast over a bump on front crossbar. There is some teflon bearing? UNDER a nylon ball (1/2 ball) and the ball can be tight (screwed in) or loose and allowed to rotate easily. If I make it loose, it doesn't need to turn much to have the screw come out. - But keeping it tight seems incorrect? How tight should this gray ball on teflon bearing be?
    I suppose CANT come out if mast is up. So I went snug, but turns freely on the screw tension and just didn't know?

    6. MOST CONFUSING of course is furling jib. Had no idea, first... on furler there is a part that is on the bow side... that looks like a old electric switch? a black box with two metal parts on the sides (top and bottom) What in the world is this for? Appears it would cut rip a spin if I were to add.

    AND I raised the jib, it appears that the halyard goes in the zipper too. BUT 1/2 way up a little pulley block comes down the halyard and won't (gets stuck) go into the opening of the zipper pocket at the top of the jib. At this point the jib is to high to reach up and assist. I had to lower it and run the halyard outside the zipper pocket... The pulley block then came down and I ran the line through it and down to the white cleat on the sail. It worked, but I read it should be in the zipper pocket. It was also a mess - though I tucked most all of it into the pocket at the bottom. Still I ended up quickly with line wrapped around the furler.

    AND - the furler... Is it suppose to have any sort of spring tension? So that if you let go the furling line the jib roll up on it's own? Or do I START WITH furling line out... connect jib, then wind it up by rotating it manually? Or do I start with furling line "in" and connect the jib then pull the line (to roll the jib?)
    Logic is saying to me, no spring tension on furler because then the jib would not have a good shape if being pulled. So I guess - my question is ...

    Is the line OUT of the furler when it's ROLLED - or is the jib OUT when the line is OUT?

    I had jib out - and line on furler out and the furling line couldn't reach anywhere and just hung in the water near the bow. ?

    Furling is primarily done to? (simply drop jib while on shore?) any other time to furl? Some boats furl with a spin up? So - with most all H18's having a furler - when do we furl?

    Ron Grand Rapids, MI
    Fleet #519
    West Michigan Catamaran Sailors

    2000 Hobie 18SX
    1984 Hobie 16 restored, new sails and spinnaker.
  • I like to start with back of mast on step ladder, so rotater above tramp a little. Dagger bungies--should hook to loop of rope coming up from hole in lip just forward of front crossbar. Replace trap shock cord & you'll see anchor points under lip. Boom should have finger that attaches to bracket on mast. Front cleat on top of boom is for line coming from rotator arm (2:1). Pull line tight for going upwind, loose for downwind (ie, mast parallel with front beam). May have to replace mast 1/2 bearing if too fsr gone. Furler string OUT when sail furled & line attaches to little cleat on front crossbar. Release line from cleat & pull on jib sheets to unfurl. Do not leave sail furled in sun for weeks at time as UV will ruin leech of sail (get a snorkel). Jib halyard should have hog clips on sisters so they run thru zippered jib easily & maybe taped. Pete
  • Trap shock cord anchors at the bow and stern under the lip. No where near the holes they come out in the middle. That allows for lots of bungy so it can stretch easier. Good luck with the new boat, just make sure to remember the daggers when beaching. Looks like Pete answered most other questions.

    I presume you used the hook at the mast head to secure the top of the sail right? And were able to unhook when lowering. Depending on where you launch, the furling job can be nice to raise on the trailer and then furl until on the water. That furling line should be long enough to stay in the crossbar V cleat when unfurled.

    ‘92 H18 w/SX wings
    ‘95 Hobie Funseeker 12 (Holder 12)
    #69 H21SE in Southern CA
  • This might give you some more ideas on furling.

    As Pete said, the line will be rolled up on the drum when the jib is OUT. Now, when you pull on the line,(pulling it OUT of the drum) it will turn the drum & furl the jib.
    Release the line from the cleat, pull on the jib block lines, or, in a good breeze just let the wind fill the jib. As the jib goes out it will wind the line up onto the drum.

    Hobie 18 Magnum
    Dart 15
    Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
    Nacra 5.7
    Nacra 5.0
    Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
    Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
  • re: #5, your mast bearing should be tight. The screw is only there so you can swap out the bearing when it wears. My ball/bearing doesn't turn at all nor should it. When your mast is raised, it basically just sits on top of the bearing and rotates freely.

    If the mast doesn't easily rotate at least 90 degrees, your shrouds are too tight (or you forgot to remove your mast step pin). In terms of mast rake, measure up 4 feet from the bottom of the mast and make a mark. Now, measure the distance from your mark to the clevis pins that connect your bridal forestay to each hull. You want to be between 105" and 107".

    As for the jib furler, prior to raising the jib I typically unreel about half the furling line from the drum and cleat the line (use the small V-cleat on front crossbar near the mast). Next raise the jib using the procedures others have described. once raised, secure the jib tack to the furler chain plate using a shackle. Now, tension and cleat the jib - it should be snug, not super-tight or you risk breaking the jib halyard under sail when you crank on the main. Last, secure your jib blocks to the clew and you're ready to furl. Make sure your jib blocks are uncleated or it wont furl. Another helpful hint: loosen your furling line prior to moving the boat around on the beach. Failure to do so can result in a broken furler housing.

    Edited by BrianCT on Jun 30, 2013 - 09:18 AM.

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