Hi - I've got an old 1974 Hobie 16 that I bought last summer. Had a great year of sailing and learning, but there are several things I need to work on.
The current concern is upgrading the traveler. Most of the 16's on the beach have the traveler car, but mine does not - it just has a piece of metal for the traveler. From the side, it would look like an inverted "T", from the front its a half circle with three holes.
It does not have the "contoured pad" for the cam cleat.
I would have thought that I could just get it out and replace it with a new car (the tracks seem about the same depth) but looking at it, I think I'd have to drill out the rivets on the track in order to get it high enough to get the old one out and put the new one in.
Yes, you would have to drill and rivet new track. I don't know how handy you are but it is not that difficult. Last year I replaced track on my SolCat 18 with one from Hobie 16 and it took total 1.5 hours. The biggest problem I had, was to get low profile riverter tip to fit inside the track. Luckly there is a guy on my beach (Glencoe) that has all the tools, lots of replacement parts and he offers service to anyone who needs some work on their boat. His prices are more than reasonable and quality is high. I can put you in contact with him if you like.
SolCat 18 (sold)
Lake Zurich, IL
Not necessary. You simply put a small nut over the shaft of the rivit & gun will pull it. Sometimes I drill threads out of small nut. Have several travelers, check my classifieds. Takes about 5 minutes to change--just jam a screw driver under track after drilling out rivits. Must use beveled rivits to replace. Pete
I just bought a 16 with this old style traveler, i'm sure i didn't rig it right (i'm used to the car style traveler.)
looks like you just feed a line through the simple metal cleat and tie it off on one of the small holes on the side, for each side. correct? am i missing something?
Bought the boat for 1$! had enough parts to rig it, sailed it. best dollar i ever spent.
also, one of the hulls is soft in the middle under the tramp. anybody ever had one fail catastrophically?
Yes, I have. Took a couple H-16's to La Paz about 25 years ago. Didn't know about the soft deck problem. Sold one and the guys called me a week later--the bow had broken off about 100 yards offshore. They were able to get in and I gave them pair of good hulls next day. When you sheet in hard in even medium wind conditions, that load (400-500 lbs ?) goes up leach of mainsail, down the forestay & bridles and tries to pull bow up. With soft decks, you've lost one face of a triangle and bow just folds. Don't even think about sailing with a soft hull. Pete
Sounds like Adam has you fixed up, but in case you end up tackling this yourself, I'll share my "experience".....
First, Hobie's traveler replacement instructions are here:
The job is a little finicky and made much easier with the proper tools. SS rivets are very hard to pull with a basic hand puller....I wish I'd bought a heavy duty one a long time ago:
As Adam suggests, a nose piece that fits inside the track will help. Pete's trick will work too, but the nut (I used washers) must not be too thick; otherwise the jaws of the puller won't grab the mandrel properly.
I highly recommend that you plan for a failed pull or two.......have a spare drill battery and spares of the flat headed, countersunk rivets on hand before you start this process. Around here, at least, no one has stuff like that sitting on the shelves.
As you can probably tell now, I really do have "experience" with this project, but it wasn't all good "experience."
Edited by rattlenhum on Sep 08, 2015 - 08:49 AM.
John, your current car is off of an OLD Hobie 14:
You need this car:
Note: You can find this car much cheaper used on ebay, but be careful as often the used ones have issues with the needle bearings missing, bent, being worn out and/or dirty and don't roll as intended. If you buy a used one in good condition, clean it well (including the holes that the needle bearings go through) and lube it with some silicon prior to assembly.
You will have to drill out the two or three rivets at the end to get the old one out and install the new one. The rivets you need are:
If you want to go whole hog, get this:
Edited by leeboweffect on Sep 08, 2015 - 07:03 PM.
Hobie 16 (3 formerly)
MacGregor 25 (formerly)
Chrysler Dagger 14 (formerly)
NACRA 5.0 (currently)
High Point, NC
It will probably sail fine, and then one day you will flip and end up standing there to right the boat at which point you will hear crunching, followed by a "glug, glug, glug" and then find yourself up to your waist in water with the mast laying horizontal on the water....
Yes, they can fail. Soft spots mean that the hull structure is compromised. It needs to be fixed or scrapped.
here's a crummy photo
can you see that on the back cross bar there is a simple metal cleat in the middle of the starboard side, i figured that was for the traveler.
there was also the swiveling cleat in the middle for the normal H16 but no eyelet under the rear crossbar for the end of the main traveler sheet. how is a set up like this supposed to be rigged? what were those little cleats for?
there was also a single swivel cleat (like the one in the rear for the main traveler sheet) on the front cross bar. What's that one for? it was only on one side and not for use with the jib sheet, the jib blocks had cleats on them) here's another crummy photo of the hardware i'm describing...it was on my old 14 too. you can see it on the port side of the mast step ...if you squint
anyway i had it out two days, all day, in and out of 5 foot surf, with the main traveler rigged two different ways, none with any mechanical advantage for me.
sister wouldn't let me keep it at the beach, tried to donate it, ended up selling the $1 boat for 50 bucks to one of the salesmen at Minney's. everybody was happy.
now it's someone else's joy/problem.
Edited by downsjn on Sep 09, 2015 - 01:30 PM.
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