bent striker rod :: Catamaran Sailboats at TheBeachcats.com

bent striker rod

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scotts1w

Rank: Lubber

Registered: May 26, 2011

Last visit: Dec 16, 2014

Posts: 81
Posted: Jun 04, 2013 - 08:48 PM

I got the image in!

New vs Old mast foot for a N5.7.
A bit more clearance probably would have gotten me by.
The boat came with a New one ready to install. Man, those Stainless pop rivets are tough.

--
Mooched Beachcats in the past
Time to try ownership with Nacra 5.7
Port Clinton, Lake Erie Islands, Ohio
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Edchris177

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Posted: Jun 05, 2013 - 06:52 AM

The reason I suggested the nuts/deep socket, is that it gives you fine control over where the re-bend will occur.
It is not like folding a piece of paper, on 9/16" material, a short bend will occur over about 1/4", a long bend, say 90* will take over an inch. Hence if you leave the nuts 1/4" above the center of the present bend, that is pretty close to where it will re-bend.
Even if the socket drops somewhat further, the nuts will create the fulcrum.
IF you slip a pipe over, just be sure not to drop the pipe all the way down to the beam. The bottom edge of the pipe becomes the fulcrum, & you will bend it at that point.
Looking again at your photo, I see there are no threads on the top 1/4", so as Pete said, you won't have problems threading the ball back on.

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
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yurdle

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Registered: Aug 22, 2007

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Posts: 742
Posted: Jun 05, 2013 - 08:10 AM

This is after I banged on it with a wrench to straighten it up some.

And it probably proves Ed's point above.

I had no Ed, though, so I took a hacksaw and cut the top off, then removed the bar (and left a large screwdriver through the hole to keep the compression tube in place.) Then went to metal supermarkets and bought a stainless round stock (maybe 5' long or so...) and cut it into a few pieces, then paid a buddy at a machine shop to thread the rods with a die. He did it by hand, which didn't make he straightest threads in the world (they kind of spiral and give the illusion that the rod isn't straight, but it's really just the threading on the rod) but I took the best looking one and had a working dolphin striker/mast step in no time.

The (lack of) rounded top of the stock rod was an issue for the ball, though, and I don't remember what I did to get around it. I probably should have just dremeled it but I don't think I did.

--
Rob
OKC
Pile of Nacra parts..
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yurdle

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Registered: Aug 22, 2007

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Posted: Jun 05, 2013 - 08:15 AM

QuoteWe didn't hold the striker below or worry about the beam, and had nothing over the threads. Ball screwed right back on. The skipper was so stoked after his first sail, then dropped me off to head north. Got a call hour later he tried to go under a bridge, hit abuttment & split bow 3' crack. He was a bit depressed, but I talked him into fixing it himself. Couple days later, he called super stoked about the fix & now a very confident sailor! Pete

I love this. Nothing inspires (over?) confidence like breaking and fixing your boat.

--
Rob
OKC
Pile of Nacra parts..
--
yurdle

Rank: Mate

Registered: Aug 22, 2007

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Posted: Jun 05, 2013 - 08:16 AM

QuoteMan, those Stainless pop rivets are tough.

Tough to remove or install? Right tool for the job and they're not that bad, although certainly quite a bit stronger than aluminum.

--
Rob
OKC
Pile of Nacra parts..
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klemens

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Registered: Aug 30, 2012

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Posted: Jun 08, 2013 - 01:49 PM

Quick question on this topic. I just purchased a Nacra 5.5sl. Only thing wrong with it was the dolphin striker being bent. I purchased a new one from Murrays. Their directions indicated putting silicon on the threads as well as on the support casting. Is the silicon necessary? Is there anything special needed to lock the nuts. Any help on this is appreciated. Btw not trying to hijack the thread. The question seemed relevant to the topic. If I should have started a new thread let me know. More dumb questions regarding my purchase will be on their way.

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Gary
Stevenson Ranch, CA
Nacra 5.5sl
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yurdle

Rank: Mate

Registered: Aug 22, 2007

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Posted: Jun 08, 2013 - 02:19 PM

I imagine that they recommend the silicone b/c the rod and bolts are stainless, while everything else is aluminum. They'll corrode the aluminum in salt water or coastal regions if they're touching.

I don't think you need to bother with anything to lock the nuts, but that's just IMO, others may disagree.

Congrats on the 5.5. That's a fun boat.

--
Rob
OKC
Pile of Nacra parts..
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Edchris177

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Posted: Jun 08, 2013 - 06:21 PM

As Yurdle said, it prevents galvanic corrosion between aluminum & SS. By silicon, I would use silicon grease, or any other thick grease if you don't have it. Coat the portion of the rod that sits inside the compression sleeve, inside the beam.
I have never worried about the support casting. The casting is aluminum, the rod just sits in a depression, there are no threads or fine tolerances to seize. Anything you put there will wash out pretty quick.
I had aircraft lock nuts,(nylock?) on 2 of the rods, the others were plain. I would not use Loctite etc. I have not ever seen them back off, they are not subject to much vibration. I have never used any grease or anti seize in that area as it is SS to SS.
Be sure to pretension the beam 3/8". Then turn the top nut down snug against the beam,I mean "snug", not gorilla force. Occaisionally give an upwards yank on the V brace strap, it shouldn't move more than 1/4". If it does, tension the beam a bit. don't forget the big washer top & bottom, or you'll crunch the beam

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
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Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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klemens

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Registered: Aug 30, 2012

Last visit: Aug 09, 2013

Posts: 8
Posted: Jun 08, 2013 - 07:38 PM

Edchris177/yurdle thank you for the response and the very complete explanation. Very much appreciated. Believe me there will be more questions to come and it is nice to know that there is a knowledgeable group willing to share their experience/knowledge. I am looking forward to getting the 5.5 out on the water.

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Gary
Stevenson Ranch, CA
Nacra 5.5sl
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scotts1w

Rank: Lubber

Registered: May 26, 2011

Last visit: Dec 16, 2014

Posts: 81
Posted: Jun 09, 2013 - 06:24 PM

Edchris177The reason I suggested the nuts/deep socket, is that it gives you fine control over where the re-bend will occur.
It is not like folding a piece of paper, on 9/16" material, a short bend will occur over about 1/4", a long bend, say 90* will take over an inch. Hence if you leave the nuts 1/4" above the center of the present bend, that is pretty close to where it will re-bend.
Even if the socket drops somewhat further, the nuts will create the fulcrum.
IF you slip a pipe over, just be sure not to drop the pipe all the way down to the beam. The bottom edge of the pipe becomes the fulcrum, & you will bend it at that point.
Looking again at your photo, I see there are no threads on the top 1/4", so as Pete said, you won't have problems threading the ball back on.

Thanks Comrades. I used to bend my sons steel axels to adjust camber and caster on a soap box derby car. Ed's info was a good refresher. Here is the repair and my tools. I used two nuts for better control. I read Ed's album here: http://www.thebeachcats.com/pictures/?g2_itemId=73301 Excellent primer, nice work.

May not be perfect but I expect it to get me through the season.

Hoping I did not hijack the thread either.

--
Mooched Beachcats in the past
Time to try ownership with Nacra 5.7
Port Clinton, Lake Erie Islands, Ohio
--
scotts1w

Rank: Lubber

Registered: May 26, 2011

Last visit: Dec 16, 2014

Posts: 81
Posted: Jun 09, 2013 - 06:34 PM

yurdle
QuoteMan, those Stainless pop rivets are tough.

Tough to remove or install? Right tool for the job and they're not that bad, although certainly quite a bit stronger than aluminum.

Install.....I have not used stainless pop rivets before. I have what I thought was a decent tool, but apparently it is lacking leverage. It took everything in my old arthritic hands to snap those rivets.

Thanks again guys!

yurdle
QuoteWe didn't hold the striker below or worry about the beam, and had nothing over the threads. Ball screwed right back on. The skipper was so stoked after his first sail, then dropped me off to head north. Got a call hour later he tried to go under a bridge, hit abuttment & split bow 3' crack. He was a bit depressed, but I talked him into fixing it himself. Couple days later, he called super stoked about the fix & now a very confident sailor! Pete

I love this. Nothing inspires (over?) confidence like breaking and fixing your boat.

Confidence increasing, over-confidence on the way!

--
Mooched Beachcats in the past
Time to try ownership with Nacra 5.7
Port Clinton, Lake Erie Islands, Ohio
--
Wolfman

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Registered: Jun 24, 2009

Last visit: Jun 15, 2023

Posts: 1555
Posted: Jun 09, 2013 - 08:09 PM

Go to Harbor Freight and get yourself a wishbone type pop riveter (Princess Auto in Canada). Best $15 you will spend on your boat, the normal riveters just don't have enough leverage for normal people to pop more than one stainless rivet per day or so and you might break them.

--
Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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scotts1w

Rank: Lubber

Registered: May 26, 2011

Last visit: Dec 16, 2014

Posts: 81
Posted: Jun 09, 2013 - 08:23 PM

WolfmanGo to Harbor Freight and get yourself a wishbone type pop riveter (Princess Auto in Canada). Best $15 you will spend on your boat, the normal riveters just don't have enough leverage for normal people to pop more than one stainless rivet per day or so and you might break them.

Is this it? Looks a bit more substantial.
Mine is an Ace Hardware and looks pretty standard. You are right about the limited number per day. I didn't think I could do any more than three a day with it. My Power right system is going to take about ten rivets and I didn't know how I would get it done? So, this is the answer?
Scott

--
Mooched Beachcats in the past
Time to try ownership with Nacra 5.7
Port Clinton, Lake Erie Islands, Ohio
--
P.M.

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Registered: Jan 14, 2004

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Posts: 859
Posted: Jun 10, 2013 - 05:42 AM

klemensIs the silicon necessary?
Gary

Yes. Here's why . . .

--
Philip
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Edchris177

Rank: Chief

Registered: Nov 26, 2009

Last visit: Apr 10, 2024

Posts: 2524
Posted: Jun 10, 2013 - 10:19 AM

QuoteBe sure to pretension the beam 3/8". Then turn the top nut down snug against the beam,I mean "snug", not gorilla force. Occaisionally give an upwards yank on the V brace strap, it shouldn't move more than 1/4". If it does, tension the beam a bit.

It seems obvious, but I know people have forgotten this, I should have added, BE SURE TO BACK OFF ON THE TOP NUT BEFORE TURNING THE BOTTOM ONE UPWARDS!

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
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Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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DamonLinkous

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Registered: Jul 19, 2001

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Posts: 3428
Posted: Jun 10, 2013 - 06:14 PM

scotts1w
Thanks Comrades. I used to bend my sons steel axels to adjust camber and caster on a soap box derby car. Ed's info was a good refresher. Here is the repair and my tools. I used two nuts for better control. I read Ed's album here: http://www.thebeachcats.com/pictures/?g2_itemId=73301 Excellent primer, nice work.

May not be perfect but I expect it to get me through the season.

Your pictures didn't work, it looks like you tried to link to a picture in a Gmail email message. So you can see it but nobody else can. To share photos on here you'll need to either create a photo album (Beachcats Technical for this) or upload them to something like Photobucket.

--
Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
Memphis, TN

How To Create Your Signature

How To Create Your Own Cool Avatar

How To Display Pictures In The Forums.
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scotts1w

Rank: Lubber

Registered: May 26, 2011

Last visit: Dec 16, 2014

Posts: 81
Posted: Jun 10, 2013 - 06:18 PM

mummp
klemensIs the silicon necessary?
Gary

Yes. Here's why . . .

Is this an issue on fresh water boats as well?

--
Mooched Beachcats in the past
Time to try ownership with Nacra 5.7
Port Clinton, Lake Erie Islands, Ohio
--
scotts1w

Rank: Lubber

Registered: May 26, 2011

Last visit: Dec 16, 2014

Posts: 81
Posted: Jun 10, 2013 - 06:26 PM

mummp
klemensIs the silicon necessary?
Gary

Yes. Here's why . . .

Is the repair for this a new beam?

--
Mooched Beachcats in the past
Time to try ownership with Nacra 5.7
Port Clinton, Lake Erie Islands, Ohio
--
JohnES

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Posted: Jun 10, 2013 - 07:25 PM

scotts1w
mummp
klemensIs the silicon necessary?
Gary

Yes. Here's why . . .

Is the repair for this a new beam?

If you want to do it right, yes a whole new beam is the only way to go... I too did this repair and when I reassembled it I used some anti seize bronze paste mixed with some waterproof axle grease..

After that every year I would take it apart, clean all the components, and reassemble with the goop I mixed up.. Never had a sign of electrolysis after that.

--
John Schwartz
Ventura, CA
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P.M.

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Posted: Jun 10, 2013 - 07:35 PM

scotts1w
mummp
klemensIs the silicon necessary?
Gary

Yes. Here's why . . .

Is the repair for this a new beam?

In this particular case it was. If you have galvanic corrosion like this in one spot, you can bet that you have it in other areas. In my case, the SS dolphin striker V-bar beam bolts had caused similar excessive corrosion, not an area you want issues. Also, the aluminum compression tube inside the beam (that the dolphin striker rod goes through), was totally seized to the rod and you could no longer adjust pre-bend to the main beam. If you have a boat with these issues, you will also likely have frozen beam bolts, and if the mast is original to the boat, your tang rivets and hound rivets will also have caused corrosion to the alum they are seated in. Food for thought. . .

Two important maintenance items:
1) isolate dissimilar metals (marine grease and silicone for rivots)
2) and for those of you who have been around from the days of the old site, as John S. so eloquently stated "make sure to exercise your nuts"

--
Philip
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