Hobie 16 Spinnaker Kit Issues
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- Rank: Administrator
- Registered: Jul 19, 2001
- Last visit: May 18, 2024
- Posts: 3435
Posted: Sep 19, 2011 - 11:19 AM
Karl, hate that you have to drill more holes in your new boat! Once you go to the pain of figuring this out, please take over-view pictures and if possible draw a diagram of how it all works and exact locations.
It would be great to have Hobie 16 spin instructions in the technical albums.
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Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
Memphis, TN
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- Rank: Mate
- Registered: May 27, 2011
- Last visit: Sep 17, 2014
- Posts: 145
Posted: Sep 19, 2011 - 05:47 PM
Well, fortunately, I just had to drill out the rivets on the sidebar to remove the simple block from under the hoop. Hobie did not include any shackles with the kit to attach the simple blocks to the hoop, I suppose it was meant to be riveted in place permanently (see pic above in first post). This time, I purchased a few shackles and now I won't have to remove the hoops for repair or adjustments to the blocks.
I reconfigured everything this weekend and will be looking forward to getting out on the water!
Damon, I'll try to take as many photo's as possible. Did you see the instructions I put together for Kenny? Is that what you'd like to see regarding the Spi?
Edited by motivated on Sep 19, 2011 - 06:48 PM.
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Karl, Captain of Stayin' Thirsty
2011 Hobie 16SE
Atlanta, GA
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- Rank: Lubber
- Registered: Oct 26, 2011
- Last visit: Oct 26, 2011
- Posts: 2
Posted: Oct 26, 2011 - 08:29 AM
Karl,
Were you able to take pictures of your new setup? I have had mine installed for a few months now but the load that's on my spinnaker sheet is pretty stiff, especially in strong winds. My crew has a hard time sheeting in to keep the spinnaker from collapsing (maybe I'm just trying to sail too high? but hey, that's so much fun when you sail high!)
I'm thinking about drilling a new pad eyes further back on the side rail from where I previously had it, and doing something like what Eragon did; I will attach a line from the pad eye to the auto ratchet block and then attach the auto ratchet block to the regular block via shock cord and give it a whirl. The reason I was to do it this way is so that I can play with how far back the auto ratchet is, to achieve the best leech/foot tension.
For some reason I've been having a hell of a time trying to keep the spinnaker from collapsing. I'm pretty new to sailing (been sailing for a year now) and I dont know if it's my sailing angles that is causing issues or an improper setup with the spinnaker. I've watched quite a few YouTube videos of youth races with spinnakers and they seem to have so much of a better shape to their sail. I have been constantly playing with the luff tension by placing a stopper ball on the spinnaker halyard above the head of the sail so that I can test how the boat performs with it looser or tighter. I'm also curious if it's better to have the tack right there at the end of the spinnaker pole or to let it fall off some with a stopper ball. I basically have to sheet my spin in as hard as I can in order to keep it from collapsing. If I try to sail down further then it's not really heated up enough to pull a hull out of the water.
Would love to hear input from anyone that might be able to help me some. Thanks all! -
- Rank: Lubber
- Registered: Oct 26, 2011
- Last visit: Oct 26, 2011
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Posted: Oct 26, 2011 - 08:52 AM
I'm assuming these blocks are way to close, but when I sheet in it seems like the foot is already too tight.
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