Would someone mind giving me a brief explanation about how the hulls are removed from the frame members on a 1985 Hobie 18? Are there any issues with removing hulls?
I'm planning on injecting the deck in the upcoming months; however the boat just won't fit in my garage assembled.
The job will be a lot easier if could make the boat narrower, i.e. hull removal. Also this way I could store the boat indoors for the winter.
Any tips are much appreciated.
1985 Hobie 18 Hull Removal
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Posted: Aug 22, 2011 - 04:15 PM
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Posted: Aug 22, 2011 - 04:24 PM
Its not too hard. You have to unlace the tramp and remove the front panels. Remove bridle wires, remove rudders.Then there is a bolt going through the deck lips into the beams. Remove one on each side of hull. Lift the beams off and your done.
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Greenville SC
Offering sails and other go fast parts for A-class catamarans
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Posted: Aug 22, 2011 - 05:15 PM
Once you take the boat apart it might help to look at the Assembly manual to put it back together.
http://2010.archive.hobie…t/pdfs/H18&SX_Manual.pdf
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Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
Memphis, TN
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Posted: Aug 22, 2011 - 10:03 PM
Not as easy as you say. I've had to take a cut-off grinder to a lip bolt frozen with corrision & not easy to do because of access problem. Try loosening them all first before committing to the task. Pete -
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Posted: Aug 23, 2011 - 12:26 PM
Since you have a 1985 there is another issue you should address besides the delamination. The 1984-86 H18's were built particularly lightly and a good number of them have had a hull break off just in front of the front beam.
There are large stainless anchor plates that can be added at the beam connection and extra fiberglass cloth can be added inside the hulls at the stress points. Since you are going to disassemble and do fiberglass work anyway it would be good to do the reinforcement as well.
Don't have time to hunt down the pictures right now maybe someone else can.
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Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
Memphis, TN
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Posted: Aug 23, 2011 - 02:56 PM
Thread about the issue
http://www.thebeachcats.c…opic/topic/12598/start/0
Pics in tech section
http://www.thebeachcats.c…ictures/?g2_itemId=11593
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Pete Knapp
Schodack landing,NY
Goodall Viper,AHPC Viper,Nacra I20
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Posted: Aug 23, 2011 - 03:35 PM
I want to see some good pictures of the patch to be place in redline hulls.
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Greenville SC
Offering sails and other go fast parts for A-class catamarans
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Posted: Sep 03, 2025 - 03:23 PM
I just disassembled mine, (‘84), to fix two cracks from ice/snow/rain loading in this springs epic ice storm. It was just way easier to do fibreglass work with the cracked portion horizontal rather than vertical. If I had more manpower available, I would leave the frame assembled & tilt the entire frame, propping it so gravity is your friend when doing the repair.
I agree with pbegle, it may not be as simple as it first seems. The outside bolts, easy peasy.
The inside bolts require a 5/16” long hex key. The small divit in the hull does not allow a ratchet to fit. , these bolts are often bent a wee bit, which also hinders removal. I had no corrosion, so they came out.
Even worse is re-assembly. It can be a major PITA to get those inside bolts started, IIRC, the manual even states you might have to drill the rivers & remove the end caps.
For that reason, I only removed one side, & left the beams attached to the other hull.
Note: I did the inside patch & added the anchor plates about 10 years ago.
Edited by Edchris177 on Sep 03, 2025 - 03:24 PM.
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Hobie 18 Magnum
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Posted: Sep 03, 2025 - 04:42 PM
Make sure that you use anti-seize grease on the bolts when you re-assemble, especially the inboard bolts. If the threads are left dry, you run the risk of them galling, which is essentially cold welding the bolt to the bracket. The bolt may end up stuck, not able to go in or out.
Always start with the inboard bolts first when reassembling. Push the bolt all the way up through the hole in the hull flange and then lower the cross bar down onto the bolt to start the treads. Don’t place the crossbar onto the saddle and try to start the bolt into the crossbar that way - very difficult to get the bolt lined up doing it that way. If you feel any resistance like the bolt is cross-threading, stop immediately and re-check for proper thread engagement.
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