Used Nacra 5.2 questions??
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- Rank: Lubber
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Posted: Apr 19, 2011 - 06:29 PM
I'm looking at a used N 5.2. Are there any specific things to check for on this boat? How well can this boat handle crew weight? How does this boat compare to a Hobie 17? I have had several cats and other sail and power boats so I know the normal things to look for. Thanks in advance.... -
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Posted: Apr 19, 2011 - 09:04 PM
I have a 1980 5.2. I guess I'd just look at the major stuff- soft spots, sails, standing rigging, etc. The earlier models, like mine, have solid glass hulls, less chance of soft spots. Check to see if the mast has the ball-capture base. The shallow one is incredibly dangerous. I switched mine out without too much trouble. Check the dagger board trunks as the inside bottom can get pretty worn and may leak excessively. If it has a trailer, check all of that out. Look for that center bar on the tramp. Some like to remove it; I left mine on. I guess it gives me a sense of better structural integrity. Also think it might be good if I ever camp out on the tramp with another person. Many other things to note, but many can be fixed without too much trouble and shouldn't prevent a sale if the price is right. I paid $1800 for mine, but it was in pretty good shape with a solid trailer.
I sail with about 370 lbs on it without difficulty. Have had up to 500 on it (three people) without incident. It can be a pain to rig (IMO), but can fly like the wind. Very stable- cuts through the waves nicely without too much rocking. There are many others here who have 5.2's who can give you more info than you will probably need.
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Eric C
Force 5 project boat
Unnamed
Previous boat
1980 Nacra 5.2
"Double Vision"
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Posted: Apr 19, 2011 - 09:50 PM
If I were going to plan on more than two people I would look elsewhere.
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Nacra 5.2
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Posted: Apr 20, 2011 - 05:05 AM
Much better than a Hobie 17. The Hobie 17 was designed for one person and can not handle any more weight than 200 pounds without problems. -
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Posted: Apr 20, 2011 - 11:16 AM
My 1981 handles 2 - 200 lb+ adults without a problem. Leaks and cracks are the main thing. Parts are readily available. If it has the old 1.25" mast ball and casting will have to upgrade to a 1.5" one eventually although I would recommend doing that immediately. Be prepared that you are also well advised to replace the standing rigging especially if it is original to the boat.
Regards,
Dave
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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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Posted: Apr 20, 2011 - 06:11 PM
where are you going to be sailing out of?
the 5.2 is WAY better at weight carrying than a hobie17
BUT, as they were first produced in 1975 some of them are 35 years old now...
the people who seem to be having no problems with older performance cats are often sailing in smooth water solo
the people who have rigs/beams/boards/hulls breaking are often sailing double trapped in waves...
there seems no particular weakness, just that they can't carry the loads now they could when new
(same goes for cars, wood, people and steel;o)
lots of good info/videos/photos on the web about them and even searching this forum for nacra 5.2 will teach you more than any 1 poster here would care to type
post-1985 foam cored hulls should be checked for soft spots
pre-1984 solid glass hulls should have their bulkheads and stringers checked carefully through the ports
as always good condition older boats generally better than poor condition newer boats
but if condition is close the later boats had 10-15 years of minor design and build improvements -
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Posted: Apr 21, 2011 - 12:22 PM
I agree with Erice.
I love my 5.2 and do solo it on low to moderate wind days. I've also had upwards of 600 lbs on it and although it bogs down quite a bit is still sailed.
If you have any specific questions make sure you do a search or post them. There are several rabid 5.2 owners on here and many more Nacra owners in general. Whatever it is, one of us has seen it, done it or fixed it (even the stupid things).
regards,
Dave
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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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Posted: Apr 21, 2011 - 12:47 PM
Pertaining to the safer mast-step system, I'm seeing the whole setup for $160.00 out on the interwebs. If everything I have right now works fine (less the brutal shallow cup and worn out ball), do I need the whole new system? Or can I just get the larger ball and mast base? The support rod itself isn't cheap, and I feel like my current one is fine. Does the new ball just get epoxy'd on? or is it physically fastened?
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Sailing in DFW area, TX
NACRA 5.2
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Posted: Apr 21, 2011 - 04:27 PM
if you want to convert from old shallow/dangerous mast base to the newer, deeper, pin-able system you need to buy and use the whole 5? part kit
this is because the older system, as well as having a semi-dangerous free mast base, was also found have a slightly too thin/weak stainless dolphin-striker rod which would eventually bend or even break, (a broken DS while sailing hard 2up usually results in catastrophic failure of the front beam)　
so when nacra went with the deeper cup on the mast base, (to allow space for a retaining pin to keep the mast on the ball at all angles) they also went for a thicker, and longer, stainless rod for the DS with matching nuts and washers, which in turn meant a slightly bigger nylon ball at the head for the mast to turn on
so there is something like 5? new parts that make up the captive kit and none of them are inter-changeable with the older system......also the older 1.4"? nylon mast balls are no longer made or stocked by nacra
if you trailer the boat to the beach and are raising and lowering the mast often you should really go with the new system for safety
as my 5.2 has mast up beach storage during the season on a small lake i have remained with the older system
the twice a year i am raising or dropping the mast, solo, i simply flip the hulls over on their side and prop it up on some ladders while i connect the stays....i figure if there is no risk of dropping the mast on anyone/anything i don't need to go to the hassle of ordering, importing and fitting the new system
video below shows a few things
http://vimeo.com/5075989?ab
1. it's quite possible to sail the 5.2 solo, easier than the hobie16 for example
2. this is because you can sail it without the 4m2 jib, but be ready to blow the traveller for tacks in strong winds
3. if sailed solo the tramp bar doesn't get in the way as the helm has plenty of space to get under the sail in the tacks/gybes, (it also helps support the 5? times restitched 30 year tramp.....however crew finds it a struggle to cross as the boom comes down to the mast so there is only about 2feet above the bar
4. the long/full bows on the 5.2 don't even look to pitchpole with only 1 up
5. you can go a long way with a few cans of enamel if you have time and an idea -
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Posted: Apr 21, 2011 - 09:30 PM
No regrets about replacing the mast base. $160 is much less than my emergency room copay. I had the mast pop off twice when raising with the old one. Luckily only hit me in the shoulder once, and missed everyone the second time. Don't forget that there will be rivets involved in the installation. If you don't have a good rivet gun, you will need to borrow one. I was able to borrow one from my local car mechanic for the afternoon.
Erice, I like your take on the tramp bar and your antique tramp; my boat resembles that remark :)
Finishing up my gel coat repair adventures, then apply my incredible (and inexpensive) graphics from ebuysigns.com , then polyglow. See you in Jacksonville?
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Eric C
Force 5 project boat
Unnamed
Previous boat
1980 Nacra 5.2
"Double Vision"
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Posted: Apr 21, 2011 - 10:19 PM
I took off my tramp bar and rivetted the cross bar straps to the front and rear bars.
If you are buying the boat you will likely need a few specialty tools, fortunately they are relatively cheap (wish I could say the same about parts). A wishbone type rivet gun is a good investment, they can be had at harbor freight or the local hardware shop between $20-$30 and make short work of stainless rivets. A set of hog ring pliers for about $6.00 is also handy for installing shock cord for the trapeze and the pop-up on the rudders. I also like to use electrical shrink tube (the 3:1 shrink ratio stuff with hot glue inside) to finish the ends of my sheets and running rigging, and use a little torch or heat gun for that (way nicer than using tape, dips or old fashioned whipping). Most everything else you may need (except if you need to do any fiberglass work) you probably have in the household tool kit (drill, pliers, adjustable wrench).
Dave
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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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