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Stepping Hobie 16 mast  Bottom

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  • I just acquired a Hobie 16 and stepped the mast yesterday, but had considerable issues attaching the forestay to the bridle. It ended up being a three person job (at the forestay). I know the forestay is supposed to have a certain amount of tension on it but is there a way to get a little more slack to allow the forestay to be shackled with only one person? I did notice that the shroud adjusters were pinned at the very bottom, would moving those back (up) a notch or two help create more slack, and how hard is it to readjust them with the mast up? icon_confused
  • Actually the forestay doesn't have to have any tension on it. Once you pull the jib up, it becomes the forestay.

    You'll want to adjust your side shrouds up a notch or 2 allowing the mast to come forward so you can attach the forestay. However, you'll want to keep the mast raking as far back as you can get it on an H16. SO adjust one notch at a time equally on both sides.

    BTW, it helps to attach the forestay with the pin already though one half of the adjustment strap.

    Another BTW. Stepping the mast can easily be a one person job.

    1) leave the boat secured to your trailer.
    2) mount a single pulley high up on your mast support cradle.
    3) undo the jib sheet on one side or the other from the cam cleat on the front crossbar.
    4) run a 25' length of line through the cam cleat and fairlead forward under the bridle and through the pulley on the mast support and bring it back to the jib halyard.
    5) pull all the slack by pulling the halyard up and cleat it off where you normally would on the mast.
    6) now step the mast keeping pressure on it forward simply reach down and grab the line coming through the cam cleat pulling out all the slack and keeping it in the cam cleat. Once it tight you can let go of the mast and attach the forestay at your leisure.
  • Hi CKinders,

    yes with practice it becomes much easier and can be done solo (after a few dozen times practice).

    IF you use your trailer mast support, BE SURE it is strong, has at the least a little welded support on the bottom to avoid it from bending/snapping off with a few 100 lbs of pressure on it.

    and just a word of caution: NEVER raise/lower your mast with anyone (or thing) you care about under it.

    enjoy
  • I created a solo-raise setup similar to one in our tech folders. But what helps me is to have the boat strapped to the trailer, and use the winch to pull some tension on one of the trapeze wires. This will allow me to then get the forestay connected, thereby releasing the winch and completing my setup. Hope this helps.
    Cheers,
  • I raised my mast all the time by myself. Similar to the advice above. I attached a 25' piece of line to the fore stay, then through a pulley on my mast cradle, and back under the front cross bar. If you lift the top of the mast up, 3-4' (I used a 4' ladder) it helps with leverage. Starting at the back of the tramp, I would lift the mast, to my sholder (this was the hardest part), walk forward to the front of the tramp. Pull the line attached to the forestay, till its tight, and either lash it on the downhaul cleat, or to a cam cleat. (the line I would hold in my teeth, while i lifted the mast, so i didnt have to reach for it, but as i am thinking about it now, could have just been tied off on the cleat) Once secure, hop off the tramp, walk around to the forestay, grab onto it, untie the line, and attach to the bridle.

    I wish that I had made a video or taken some pics, before I sold the H16.

    As Andrew said keep children/cars/and other valuables away from anywhere the mast could land. The only time I dropped my mast was when the pin broke when lifting, fortunately the mast tip couldnt have been more than 10' off the ground and wasnt damaged, nor was anyone else.

    If you are anywhere around the tampa bay area, I can show you how to do it.

    HTH
  • Thanks for all of the pointers, was able to get it stepped a couple of times with assistance, not quite ready to attempt by myself yet.

    But I have another question though. When attempting to raise the main I'm only able to raise the sail up to the batten above the reef points without any issue. I can force it up to the reef points but usually any higher it starts "snagging" and hopping out of the mast. I checked the halyard and the top of the mast, but that wasn't the issue, only when raising the main inside the track in the mast does it snag.



    edited by: ck1, Jun 26, 2010 - 08:36 PM
  • ck1Thanks for all of the pointers, was able to get it stepped a couple of times with assistance, not quite ready to attempt by myself yet.

    But I have another question though. When attempting to raise the main I'm only able to raise the sail up to the batten above the reef points without any issue. I can force it up to the reef points but usually any higher it starts "snagging" and hopping out of the mast. I checked the halyard and the top of the mast, but that wasn't the issue, only when raising the main inside the track in the mast does it snag.edited by: ck1, Jun 26, 2010 - 08:36 PM


    Clean your mast track. Use a sponge or something that will xpand inside the track a bit or wash cloth wrapped around a piece of pencil or something you can slide up and down the inside of the track. just use warm soapy water. Then after get a can of McLube and apply liberally to you your bolt rope on your sail. I also used the McLube on my mast track but it will only do any good there if you can get it in the right spot.(The front of the track not the back). I use the little red tube that comes with the McLube and spray on a sidways angle along the track and seems to get pretty decent coverage but if your not getting it in the right spot save the McLube and just use it on the bolt rope.

    --
    Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
    Member: Utah Sailing Association
    1982 Prindle 18
    1986 Hobie 17
    1982 Prindle 16
    1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
    1976 Prindle 16(mostly)

    Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook.
    --
  • Chris, with the mast off and laying on the grass in your backyard, take the sail and slide it up in the sail track on the mast,you can do it by hand or by using the main halyard if you prefer. You want to check for binding where the sail track may have been pinched from a previous drop, the sail should slide up the track quite easily. If the problem is a pinched sail track, you will have to find a metal rod or wooden dowel that fits exactly in the sail track and use that to to expand the pinch by sliding the rod up the sail track to the pinch area then tap/hammer the rod past the pinched area expanding it to original diameter. If this is you problem as I suspect it may be, then once repaired go ahead and lube sail track as suggested previously

    I have a H16 and the sail slides up the track pretty easily, you have to remember that the wire part of the main halyard has 2 nicopress sleeves attached that have to make it past the halyard hook on the top of the mast so just before the nicopress sleeves reach the halyard hook adjust the angle of your downhaul to about 35 degrees away from the mast so that the slugs make it past the hook. Once sail reaches top, bring main halyard parallel to mast so slug latches into halyard hook, this prevents the sail from dropping back down. icon_cool



    --
    TurboHobo
    H14T
    H16
    P18
    G-Cat 5.0
    P16
    --
  • my onw little words of wisdom...

    the easiest way to keep control of the mast is to keep it as close to your chest as possible. This is especially true for lowering it. Also lower it SLOWLY so it does not get away from you.

    When raising it, it helps to tuck a small loop of the side stays into the rear tramp lacing. This will keep them from getting caught up when you are only 1/2 way up
  • When you have the mast off, support it on two chairs, saw horses, whatever, with the track facing downwards. Then spray your lube into the track using the little tube. The lube will all run downwards onto the front of the track, where the boltrope is forced against the groove.
    I cleaned & lubed mine this way, almost to much of a good thing, if I were to let go of the halyard the sail will come down like a ton of bricks.
    If it has a definite sticking point, I would tend to agree that there is something in the track, or it has been pinched at that point.

    --
    Hobie 18 Magnum
    Dart 15
    Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
    Nacra 5.7
    Nacra 5.0
    Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
    Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
    --
  • Looking for some different Hobie 16 advice. I run a small sailing school for my yacht club and I was donated a Hobie 16. I am now looking to piece it together and I have found two issues already.
    1. The tiller extension is MIA. Can I make one or do I have to buy one?
    2. A mouse found the main and had some for dinner. Any place that sells used or very used sails? Thanks!
  • hello salt..
    you should be able to make a new tiller if you are resourceful.

    there are many places to find sails for a h16 (and sail repair). i would suggest you start a unique thread.. you will get a bigger audience response.

    you can appeal for donations here and on other threads, you can look for sails on this site's "http://www.thebeachcats.com/classifieds/" section. ebay, craigslist, etc.
  • Thanks, maybe I will do that after I see what else is missing. The kids are excited I just have to watch the $$$.

    Guy
  • How bad did the mouse get the sail? Holes can be patched with sail tape from sailrite or Murrays. It is adhesive
    backed and very strong.

    --
    Pete Knapp
    Schodack landing,NY
    Goodall Viper,AHPC Viper,Nacra I20
    --
  • all last season i used a bamboo stick as a tiller extension. filled the last 5" of the small end with resin and cloth and drilled the pin hole out...this season i found the original carbon fiber one and miss the bamboo one. the bamboo floats and is about 5x lighter than the carbon fiber one. i did break 2 of them but that was while we were breaking other bigger things and they never broke at the connection to the crossbar...we figured it cost about $4 each.

    --
    Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook!
    bill harris
    hattiesburg, mississippi
    prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
    --
  • Another cheap option is to go to Wal-Mart and purchase a 4' painters extension stick, works on the same principals as the tiller extension, twist one way to loosen and extend/collapse, twist other way to tighten.

    Keep in mind that the tiller extension is primarily used when standing out on the side of the boat hooked into the trap wires flying a hull as you go as fast as possible, dunno if thats where your kids are with sailing school just yet.

    Also, if you go to "USED CATAMARAN PARTS" top left of this webpage, you will find many parts you might need.


    Turbo
  • turbohoboAnother cheap option is to go to Wal-Mart and purchase a 4' painters extension stick, works on the same principals as the tiller extension, twist one way to loosen and extend/collapse, twist other way to tighten.

    Keep in mind that the tiller extension is primarily used when standing out on the side of the boat hooked into the trap wires flying a hull as you go as fast as possible, dunno if thats where your kids are with sailing school just yet.

    Also, if you go to "USED CATAMARAN PARTS" top left of this webpage, you will find many parts you might need.


    Turbo


    funny i thought the extension was so you could still hold on (and be dragged) to your boat after you have somehow fallen off... (last month it was my trap handle broke off) :)
  • coastratall last season i used a bamboo stick as a tiller extension. filled the last 5" of the small end with resin and cloth and drilled the pin hole out...this season i found the original carbon fiber one and miss the bamboo one. the bamboo floats and is about 5x lighter than the carbon fiber one. i did break 2 of them but that was while we were breaking other bigger things and they never broke at the connection to the crossbar...we figured it cost about $4 each.


    2 benifits to bamboo... 1) does not conduct electricity like carbon does 2)even after you break it, can be used to whack people
  • I suppose you could use it to barefoot ski behind your Mystere Mr Scott..... icon_lol

    Turbo
  • turbohoboI suppose you could use it to barefoot ski behind your Mystere Mr Scott..... icon_lol

    Turbo


    If by barefoot ski you mean be dragged with mouth open,... shooting a rooster tail out my butt... yup works well :)

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