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Changing mainsail downhaul tension on the fly  Bottom

  • Hello,
    just bought a Pringle 18 and have figured out most of the technical stuff, rigging etc, with help from your archived queries. Thank you for that. Great site. But anyway, here is my question. At the base of the Prindle's mast, are: two cheek blocks, one port and one starboard, two jam cleats, one port and one starboard, and two blocks whose bails are attached to clips, so they dangle. The manual directs the rigging of the downhaul as, tack of sail, down through mast rotater through cheek block, up to tack, down to cheek block, up through tack and down to jam cleat. Is there a way to use two downhaul lines, one port and one starboard in conjunction with the dangly blocks at the very base of the mast to change downhaul tension on the fly? Kinda confusing, but then what on a sailboat isn't?
    thanks.
    Them's that dies, the lucky ones.



    edited by: CaptainCurt, Nov 29, 2009 - 08:50 PM
  • I don't know anything about the dangly blocks. You can just use one long line that goes the route you stated above, with each end going through the jam cleats, and you can leave those as long as you want.

    It sounds like the previous owner had rigged up something else with the other blocks, but without a pic it's hard to say what that would be.

    --
    Rob
    OKC
    Pile of Nacra parts..
    --
  • I am not sure I get this picture, but the sheaves on my cheek blocks have disintegrated (they still work, but life is hard on my downhaul line), and I would like to see a picture of the danglers.

    You can apply an awful lot of downforce with the factory routing/single line, I am not sure you could apply as much pressure with the two line approach. I think you probably need a single line regardless of which blocks you use.

    It seems there was a thread once where the discussion was no one really bothers with adjusting the downhaul once the Prindle is launched.
  • Kgatesman,
    Thanks for the reply. The way the manual reccommends rigging the downhaul, tack, cheek block, tack, cheek block, tack, cleat appears to be a 5:1 to me and you are right, you can really pull that luff tight. The manual also offers the info that some racers, tie the downhaul line to the gooseneck,tack,cheek block, tack, cheek block, tack, cleat which gives you an extra part which makes it a 6:1 ???
    So, with two cheek blocks and two danglers, and if you start with the downhaul line tied to the gooseneck and use then all, looks to me like you could get a 10:1. That would be perfect if you wanted to rip the hook off the top of the mast. LOL.
    I just talked to the guy I bought the boat from and he informs me that even though the boat is a Prindle 18, the mast is from an 18-2 which explains "the two dangler blocks are for a sophisticated downhaul."
    Anybody know where I can sneak a peak at a manual for an 18-2?
    This is, as you say, all probably academic, and I like the "set it and forget it" scenario. But I'm also curious, and those extra blocks were put there by someone for something.
    Thanks,
    Curt
    Sorry Yurdle, didn't see your post. Think the answer to this riddle is the 18-2 mast info. I'll try to figure out how to send a pic. The danglers are just single blocks mounted to a strap.



    edited by: CaptainCurt, Nov 30, 2009 - 10:10 AM
  • I posted pictures of my 18's downhaul in these forums last summer at some point. Changing from the 5:1 to 6:1 is really simple and sounds like yours is already there.

    The 18-2 has a nicer downhaul with a small block on each side of the tack of the main which makes the downhaul line run much more smoothly.

    With a 10:1 I'd be concerned about ripping the tack out of the main - I doubt the p18's main was intended to have that much force on it.

    --
    Rob
    OKC
    Pile of Nacra parts..
    --
  • I'll look for the pics of your 18's downhaul in last summer's posts. Thanks for the help. I'll let you guys know what I figure out. Am leaning more toward the set it and forget it way of thinking.
    Best
    Curt
  • I put ronstan flip flops (its late..) in place of the jam cleats so that I could adjust the 6:1 from either side, anywhere on the boat. I think that's what I was showing a pic of. I'm on a cell data connection for the next week or I'd just upload another copy.

    I probably adjusted the downhaul on the water twice a day max when I had the P18...but I have a small lake so that's something really easily adjustable any time I go back to shore.

    --
    Rob
    OKC
    Pile of Nacra parts..
    --
  • Yurdle, what is a flip flop? I'm getting the picture on how to use one line, adjustable and cleatable from either side and still get 6:1 . Problem is that the cleats are above the danglers but mounted to cleat with tension from above. I know you guys are probably sick of trying to interpret this verbal mind tweak and are saying "why don't he just post a picture?" I need to make an appointment with the third grader next door to show me how to do that. LOL.
    Thanks for all the help.
    Curt
  • QuoteYurdle, what is a flip flop?

    i think he is refering to a block that can pivot as seen on my mast (blue downhaul)

    http://ronstan.com/images/product/RF5.jpg

    http://a611628.sites.myregisteredsite.com/a/cat/pivot.bmp




    edited by: andrewscott, Dec 04, 2009 - 11:50 AM
  • Andrew,
    Very cool. Thanks. Any idea where to get a deal on a pair of those to replace my "danglers" ? Love the jargon thing. Don't know what it is? Make up a name for it. Probably should have a block on the tack as well.
    Best,
    Curt
  • andrewscott
    i think he is refering to a block that can pivot as seen on my mast (blue downhaul)


    Exactly, thanks.

    --
    Rob
    OKC
    Pile of Nacra parts..
    --
  • CaptainCurtAndrew,
    Very cool. Thanks. Any idea where to get a deal on a pair of those to replace my "danglers" ? Love the jargon thing. Don't know what it is? Make up a name for it. Probably should have a block on the tack as well.
    Best,
    Curt

    If I could do this again I would have just used one and saved $45. The jam cleat on the other side works fine, and its highly unlikely that only having one long line coming off of one side would negatively affect you (well..me anyway) on the P18.

    Come to think of it, it might be best just to tie the line to the becket on the stock cleat with a bowline and leave all the rest coming out of the rotating block...man...that is exactly what I'd do now. You could even leave the downhaul attached to the mast that way too and retain the 6:1 upgrade, which I found handy.



    edited by: yurdle, Dec 04, 2009 - 11:23 PM

    --
    Rob
    OKC
    Pile of Nacra parts..
    --
  • You just saved me $45, thanks. Salty dog has one that looks like it will do the job for about $37.
  • The flip flop is way cooler than the jam cleat, way cool.

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